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Has anyone fitted an aftermarket head unit to a mark 5 golf?
If so where di you get ignition power from all I can find is constance power any help would be great
Has anyone fitted an aftermarket head unit to a mark 5 golf?
If so where di you get ignition power from all I can find is constance power any help would be great
Plenty of people do a search here, on golfmkv.com and vwvortex.com for heaps of info and how to guides.
The cigarette lighter socket is close by for acc power.
When I installed my AVC9000, I noticed there was a accessory power wire coming from the quadlock connector to the AVC connector. They must be getting this from somewhere in the original harness.
2008 Jetta 2.0T FSI | Campella White | HP Supreme Tint | AVC9000 | Digital TV Tuner | Parrot 3200LS bluetooth carkit
I found only constant 12V power to the radio connector, NO acc power or ignition power feed. It uses CANbus to wake up the radio and thats why it works on the accessory position.
The best solution for a accessory power feed I have found is the glovebox light power! Red/blue from memory, its on from the moment you unlock the car, works with the key out etc, and will power down after 10 mins of vehicle inactivity, will power off immediatley you lock vehicle, on constantly with key in ignition, already on fused circuit. NOT high current though, use as signal only. I have a device on this circuit drawing about 350mA with no problems.
Has anyone fitted an aftermarket head unit to a mark 5 golf?
If so where di you get ignition power from all I can find is constance power any help would be great
sorry, I missed the point,
ignition power feed, I used a non-critical circuit. Automatic dimming rear view mirror power feed, access from LHS fuse panel. Refer to your owner's handbook for fuse assignment.
It's a mongrel no question. I used the cig lighter, and for illumination used the flippin headlight! I'm sure I got constant power out of the stock head unit plug, but had a nice adaptor from the UK which helped sort the wiring a bit.
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If you want to run your own wiring back to the fuse box and have an inline fuse, there are a couple of spare switched and unswitched positions in there. Just probe them with your multimeter. I've used this for wiring radar detector, boost gauge, etc. (Which normally have an inline fuse in the supplied wiring.) I've found this this easiest, since the spade connectors on the supplied wiring fit straight into the vacant fuse box positions. ie. totally reversable, no splicing and dicing!
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