2.0 FSi kicks over but won't start

[westie08]

Hi,
I'm wondering if anyone can shed some light for me?
I recently purchased a 2005 VW Golf 2.0 FSi, my very first VW!

It was part way through an engine swap BLX for BLX, The old engine snapped the cam belt and that ended that! and so far as I know and can tell the replacement engine has a new belt fitted. it has the GXV trans package.

I got it mostly all back together and it started fine for an engine that had old fuel and had not started for 4+ years, I only ran it for 20 - 30 sec as the cooling system was not complete even though I did fill the system with water prior to starting I did that perhaps 4x over two days until a week later I got a new radiator.

Now this is where it gets interesting, I finished reassembling the front end and all the car does now is turn over! it refuses to start! I have fuel at the rail (Fresh) or though if the fuel line is removed from the rail and put into a bottle it's only pushing a stream out away from the hose about 100mm? if i put my finger over half the hose there seems to be pressure there as the distance increases a lot, saying to me that the fuel pump is ok and there seems to be spark, I have fitted a new battery.

I had a bloke here with a Snapon scan tool and he couldn't find a fault and then it just started to start and run again, well that only lasted a few hrs after he left, I had the car running and it just stopped! right back where we started.

If anyone has had or heard of the same problem and knows a few things to check I would be most grateful for some info.

Cheers
Westie

[saabman]

After an egine replacement where to start is a good one especially since it works sometimes and not others.

1. Get a scan with VCDS
2. If its intermittent I would be looking for a connector not properly seated or damaged wire.
3. was the new engine good?? since its a BLX burn it and put another engine in I am convinced VW searched the globe for all the odd ball parts and fitted them to that engine and made sure they destroyed all the left over bits - Ive been fighting one for some time now.

if you cant easily get your hands on VCDS grab any scan tool that can graph stuff and have a look firstly at engine RPM while cranking.

Check the fuses (in the fuse box in the engine bay a dodgey fuse just cant think of the number of the top of my head will let you crank but no start - ill look it up tomorrow.

But to start with id doubble check all the connectors to the engine. Good luck

[westie08]

Cheers, I have a Bluedriver scan tool that shows live feed, What am I looking for?
I'll try and push all the plugs tomorrow, but there's some that are so far tucked away it's like a Gynecologist rebuilding an engine from the exhaust tip!

[saabman]

You want to log engine RPM while starting to see if your getting any indication from the ecu that the engine is actually turning over.

If you can log injector timing as well that might give a clue as to weather the injectors are firing.

The golf v is a great car but suffers from some wireing issues - insulation has gone brittle with age and breaks away causing the wire to break where it flexes or shorts out. With neighboring wires. Usually results in a blown fuse and no significant issue - just can be a pain to trace down.


I’m not sure how much info you can get from a generic obd scanner. If your going to do anything with your car you really need to get a VCDS adapter/software

HEX-V2 Enthusiast | Ross-Tech
Available in Australia from
Mount Auto Equip Services Pty Ltd

Or

https://hp.net.au/home/

It will give a world of more information about faults and tests than a generic tool will.

Not having it is like trying to work on your car with only a shifter - you could possibly do most things but it’s a lot easier with some sockets and spaners.

[saabman]

You want to log engine RPM while starting to see if your getting any indication from the ecu that the engine is actually turning over.

If you can log injector timing as well that might give a clue as to weather the injectors are firing.

The golf v is a great car but suffers from some wireing issues - insulation has gone brittle with age and breaks away causing the wire to break where it flexes or shorts out. With neighboring wires. Usually results in a blown fuse and no significant issue - just can be a pain to trace down.


I’m not sure how much info you can get from a generic obd scanner. If your going to do anything with your car you really need to get a VCDS adapter/software

HEX-V2 Enthusiast | Ross-Tech
Available in Australia from
Mount Auto Equip Services Pty Ltd

Or
Harding Performance - Online Store

It will give a world of more information about faults and tests than a generic tool will.

Not having it is like trying to work on your car with only a shifter - you could possibly do most things but it’s a lot easier with some sockets and spaners.

[westie08]

Cheers again, did you recall that fuse to check? I got Mr Snapon reader coming back tomorrow. looking back at the screen shots i took of the Bluedriver scan faults i had prior to mr Snapon were

P0597 thermostat heater control circuit/open
P0441 EVAP system incorrect purge flow

After I cleared those mr Snapon came by and got it running somehow even he doesn't know.

The next day I plugged in my scan tool and got 4 new fault codes All the injectors P020 1,2,3,4 Cylinder 1 injector "A" circuit
Now it wont even find any fault codes!
Again thanks for you input.
Westie

[saabman]

Interesting you got faults on all injectors they all connect via an 8pin connector directly to the ECU.

The evap system incorrect flow most likely be the Grey valve on the left hand side of the vacuum tank (sits over the intake manifold) i would worry too much about it at this stage. It won’t stop the car firing.
The thermostat heater control fault would be the map controlled thermostat not worth worrying about at this stage ( varies the opening point of the thermostat)

There’s two fuses for the ecu SB11 25A and SB26 10A
Fuse box B is the blade fuses in the engine compartment.

SB11 if it’s blown or missing car will turn over but not start. Pull the fuse and check the socket isn’t worn out making a bad contact as well. Also check relay J317 (has 458 printed on it) Though issues with that fuse and relay will usually report an error along the lines of no ecu supply or something similar.

Though you don’t want to go looking for problems that don’t exist I’d really concentrate on stuff that was moved/touched when removing/refitting the engine.

Crank position sensor, cam sensor, manifold pressure sensor. Oil sensor under the engine.

Do you have ELSAWIN - the vw setvice info?

[westie08]

Fuse No 29!! It's not even in the friggen glove box handbook! So this is why she wouldn't start, blown fuse, Put a new fuse in and SMOKE started to escape No1 coil pk! FARRRRK! Yank fuse!!! **** **** **** ****!!! WTF!

So it turns out that I caused the fault and I now know that ya can't even spit on a VW eng!
See after the Auto sparky got me going the first time and left I washed the car and gave the engine a degrease due to some split brake fluid when bleeding the clutch and it turns out that just a wee bit of water got into the coils, it didn't take much at all, so pulled the plugs and dried them and I was lucky enough to have a spear set of coils, so changed all of them and now she runs.

I do have a light on (G85) Steering angle sensor, I replaced this and the clockspring from a wrecked car but still have the light, Mechanic at european garage is telling me it's just the clockspring and "ya can't fit a second hand part it won't work"
I'v tested all the pins and have continuity so I can't see why it wouldn't work.
The car has sat for about four years, does it just need a reset? I have tried turn left turn right drive forward a bit, Nothing! 7km drive, Nothing.

[saabman]

the fuse listing in anything in the car is useless - try and decipher the stupid little icons not to mention they are back to front as well!

Thats awesome you found it though and running again. Ive had the stering light on after a dead battery clearing code and going for a drive fixed it up - there may be an basic setting in VCDS to recalibrate it - Im guessing the replacement steering angle sensor hasnt been calibrated to your car yet.

its a challenge to keep them going mainly because there is so little infomration about how they work and the level of integration in all parts of the car is insane, it does my hea din some days - keep at it

[westie08]

Thanks for all the advice.

The car is going in later in the week to go onto there computer to get reset/calibrated hopefully they can sus it out without a bunch of overpriced parts and get the power assist going again?

Cheers.

[saabman]

Probably another fuse !

My daughters golf 2005 2.0FSI (BLX) same as yours spent 2 months in the mechanics with a missisng fuse for the ECU. the interdependancies of so many systems make them very hard to diagnose - as an example the AC not working can potentially be due to a leak in the vacuum line to the brake booster.

Once the car is scanned with VCDS you probably find faults with the door locks , rear wiper, purge valve ( I think youve got that one all ready)

A lot of things with ancilliaries will be down to damage to the wiring in between the body and the doors. As mentioned in another thread im working on translating the ECU documentation to English which Im hopeing will help owners keep the mk5's alive. unfortunately its over 4000 pages so it will take some time.


You will find parts some parts for the BLX differ a bit from the other 2.0FSI engines.

Try and get your self a copy of ELSAWIN - You can usually find someone on ebay selling it on a set of DVDs fro $10 or so or you might be able to download it if you hunt around a bit.

Having a genuine Ros tech cable and VCDS is expensive it will pay for its self if you intend doing any work your self which from what youve done so far sounds like you will. it will also save some heartache when the check engine light comes on - dont worry it will