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Thanks for the info guys, im still getting used to working on VW's. Very different to jap vehicles. So when it comes to doing the job do most of you service the cv joints or just replace the driveshafts complete?
2004 VW Bora 4motion | 3.2 Swapped - R32 Trimmings | BBS CH | Forever fixing this bitch
The jap vehicles I've done in the past once the cv's were shot we'd just replace the whole driveshaft. Mainly because the parts were readily available and cheap. I'm finding that's not really the case with VW's (although I think that trend is changing as more VW's hit the roads)
2004 VW Bora 4motion | 3.2 Swapped - R32 Trimmings | BBS CH | Forever fixing this bitch
Or VW. At retail, the prices are pretty similar, and are all the same GKN kit.
I went to HSY to pick up a sump plug (long story) and asked them how much a boot kit is and it was $38 for a GKN. HSY is 300m from my workplace which is super handy.
Much cheaper than the $65 a VW dealer quoted me.
I may provide the parts to a mechanic that works from home on weekends.
I've my preferred mechanic VW specialist can supply and repair at a reasonable price, but is difficult to get to now I've moved further away.
so both my CV boots are cracked and going to be replaced however i noticed that when i drive there is no noise coming when turning but when travelling at higher speeds it tends to become bouncy(like the wheels unbalanced, only seems to be the left side).
Do i need to replace the cv boots or the whole drive shaft?
CV joint/boot repair jobs also will need a wheel alignment after you finished as you take the hubs off to remove the drive shaft for repair. Normally if you are paying someone to do the work you might as well replace the CV joints as well because on older cars these would have the Km's used and could go not long after having the boot fixed and then you are paying for labour twice. CV joints are sealed from the maker.
It is possible to replace the hubs back in the same position as the holes for the bolts aren't elongated on the Mk5. I have replaced a boot & removed the ball joint [2 occasions] without a wheel alignment but that's up to you.
I just replaced the one split boot & everything is fine since then.
I would not also replace the CV joints unless the car was at a high mileage & been hammered. My first T4 was an ex ambulance & needed a new CV joint [probably had a hard life] & that from memory was the only joint I have needed to replace. I have had an Audi Fox, lots of Mk1s, a Mk2 GTI & 2 T4s. Then again it's up to the owner if he wants to replace everything.
I would also stay with a good quality driveshaft rather than replace with a complete cheaper aftermarket one.
Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels
It depends how long was the cv joint rubber boot split for, how much grease did it lose and how much dirt got inside the joint. If you caught it on time or replaced the boot before it splits then yes the CV joint could still be good (could last). However, many will not notice that the joint is leaking grease, so it’s always more economical to replace the shaft (not just the cv joint). I’ve done many boots only in the past and in most cases the car owner got 6-12months before they could here the cv joint clicking.
It depends how long was the cv joint rubber boot split for, how much grease did it lose and how much dirt got inside the joint. If you caught it on time or replaced the boot before it splits then yes the CV joint could still be good (could last).
Also wet conditions mixed with dirt can cause the joint to deteriorate quickly. Whenever I wash my cars, I turn the wheels to hose under the guards & take the opportunity to visually check the boots for any breaks or splits, brake leaks etc. I get it that the average Joe sometimes just keep driving until the clicking noise becomes embarrassing.
Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels
Also wet conditions mixed with dirt can cause the joint to deteriorate quickly. Whenever I wash my cars, I turn the wheels to hose under the guards & take the opportunity to visually check the boots for any breaks or splits, brake leaks etc. I get it that the average Joe sometimes just keep driving until the clicking noise becomes embarrassing.
Absolutely. In any condition when the cv boot splits, you have 1week to take it apart, wash it and re-grease it and put the new one on. After that it would be too much dirt ingress and excessive wear in the joint, that no matter what it would wear out quick.
Yes, and you can hear them clicking at the shopping centres car parks.
Absolutely. In any condition when the cv boot splits, you have 1week to take it apart, wash it and re-grease it and put the new one on. After that it would be too much dirt ingress and excessive wear in the joint, that no matter what it would wear out quick.
Yes, and you can hear them clicking at the shopping centres car parks.
do you recommend cleaning the CV joins completely and applying the new grease or just adding grease to the existing?
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