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Originally posted by Back Door Shenanigans.View Post
Where does it mention that? If you mean " I used a 30A terminal block ("chocolate block") for this." he doesn't mean a fuse for that.
He mentions the wire has to carry 7.5A "(4) Solder approx 30 inches of wire to each resistor termination and cover the bare termination with heatshrink to provide some protect against the elements and accidental shorts. The wire has to carry approx 7.5A and I used some 1.5mm² wire I had lying around." So a 10A fuse will do, I think thats what i put in mine, that or 15A fuses. I put one on each as there is one resistor for each fan.
Also as been said by many people the only stupid question is the one you don't ask. Better to get it right than cause more problems heh.
Well I feel stupid asking anyway! But that makes sense, so just to confirm, I should add inline 10A fuses for both circuits after the red/white and red/black wires are spliced together?
Well I feel stupid asking anyway! But that makes sense, so just to confirm, I should add inline 10A fuses for both circuits after the red/white and red/black wires are spliced together?
So what is the chocolate block about?
Haha don't, as i said its better you make sure you know exactly what your doing than to stuff it up. Yeah i put one for extra protection on each of them. I think i put it on the power cable running into the resistors.
Is there anything that I could have done to make that easier for you?
ie, extra holes, trimmed differently or something?
Preeny, you did a great job If anything the diagram I sent you needs tweaking on a case-by-case basis because I think there are subtle differences between models and/or chassis'. I mentioned it was a pain in the arse because you have to lay on your back and try and squeeze your hands into awkward angles to secure the plate.
For anyone else wishing to do this** I would suggest getting a blank plate made up from Preeny and then measure and drill holes yourself. Mine has a bunch of extra holes in it now but it's only aesthetics which you don't see anyway. And I may have put it around the wrong way...! I'd buy another plate to do it again a bit neater (I'm pedantic) but to be honest 1) I can't be bothered getting metal fragments in my eye again lol and 2) like I said, you don't see it anyway
**I recommend EVERY Mk 4 owner do this mod because your fans will fail. Chances are they already have and are currently not working as they should - run the test which is mentioned in the links in this thread.
Discovered why my bumper isn't aligned properly (broken mount)
Car isn't on fire
Bad:
Job isn't the neatest so I will redo now I know what I'm doing
Broke a clip that secures the wiring to the fans
Temp doesn't sit on 90 degrees Celsius, seems to sit around 80
Found out my fan(s) squeal when I first start the car. I always thought the squeal was the serp belt so that leads me to believe the brushes in the fan(s) are rooted and maybe the reason the fuse blew (30A on top of battery). Can you buy replacement parts or will the fans need replacing?
Thanks again for all those that helped, couldn't have done it without everyone.
So given the weather is getting warmer again, I thought it's about time I got my fans going which crapped out late last summer. I bought the resistors online a few weeks ago, made up the plate, then threw it in the boot in waiting for a delivery of motivation.
That motivation came this afternoon, and I promptly pulled off the bumper, decoupled the connectors, and proceeded to test the fans before I cut anything.....The bloody things work, both high and low....
Two things:
1. Does anyone want a pre made plate, with resistors mounted?
2. What would you recommend my next fault finding step would be? Are the only fuses for the fans on top of the battery? Where is the relay to turn them off and on?
This car has been an electrical nightmare since I bought it; the previous owner had wired in a few too many/overpowered accessories and created a small fire in the fuse compartment, the clear is starting to come off of the boot, roof and bonnet, and the front end is knocking with despite replacing pretty much everything.... it's a constant battle with this car. I think I have to admit, I bought a lemon.
Fans are controlled via the fan control unit which is mounted below the rail under the battery.
It has a 14pin connector with all sorts of signals - ac pressure, throttle open, coolant temp, ac button signal, compressor.....
And a big 4 pin connector which controls both the fans for high and low speed.
I'm trying to work out why my ac does not work and this control unit has been the centre of this whole debug process.
MK4 GTI - Sold
MK5 Jetta Turbo - Sold
MK5 Jetta 2.Slow - Until it dies.
Fans are controlled via the fan control unit which is mounted below the rail under the battery.
It has a 14pin connector with all sorts of signals - ac pressure, throttle open, coolant temp, ac button signal, compressor.....
And a big 4 pin connector which controls both the fans for high and low speed.
I'm trying to work out why my ac does not work and this control unit has been the centre of this whole debug process.
Not that hard to diagnose the control unit, bypass it and check the fans actually work, they have to cool the condensor, and of course when its cool the pressures come down and the high pressure switch doesnt switch the system off.
Fans dont work the compressor clutch wont kick in.
Jmac
Alba European
Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
For people who value experience call 0423965341
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