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Adam's Mk4 Gti "AGU big turbo Build thread"

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  • #31
    Originally posted by TougeMk4 View Post
    Hey everyone, it's been a few weeks since I updated and I've done a couple of things since then.

    1. Painted the block, rocker cover and intake manifold.

    2. Started de-looming the engine bay as well as some deletes and relocations.

    3. Relocating the battery to the boot.

    Still saving money up for all the goodies, I'm in two minds about the stroker kit now..



    Here's a couple of photos.. I'll take some more of the in line neck filler installed and the battery relocated with the new power distribution blocks. Oh and the painted engine









    Good work there. You should buy some VW coolant though. Anything else just doesn't cut it. It could be an old wives tale but I don't want to be the one that finds out the hard way....
    Gavin
    optimumcode@gmail.com | https://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/for...i-;-79012.html | https://www.facebook.com/TTY-Euro-107982291992533

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    • #32
      Originally posted by TougeMk4 View Post
      3. Relocating the battery to the boot.
      Never sure if this is a good move for a FWD car
      Weight over the front wheels is advantagous for FWD ... to a point

      Great to see the AGU back in the car!
      2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
      APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
      APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
      Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels

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      • #33
        Is that all the supplies you needed to do a coolant ball delete? I'm keen on cleaning my bay a little, including a battery relocate.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by h100vw View Post
          Good work there. You should buy some VW coolant though. Anything else just doesn't cut it. It could be an old wives tale but I don't want to be the one that finds out the hard way....
          Gavin
          Ive done a fair bit research on this topic. there are people who run the green stuff and flush every so often. and there are people who run alternatives to the G12. i wont bore you all to much, and im not looking for a debate. ive been running aftermarket coolant for 3 years now. i decided to give this Nulon a go, it as close to the real thing. as long as it is phosphate and silicate free. have a read, ive taken some close ups of the label. it meets G12 / G12+ standards and uses the same O.A.Ts technology as found in the VW coolant. Anyways.. it's only going in my old AGU while i putt around town and wait till i finish building me new AGU.
















          Also that engine bay photo is with my current Agu powerplant


          Here is a mock up and a work in progress of the paint job for the new motor

          still gotta rub back some bare metal parts on the block and redo the rocker cover. Ive rubbed it back now and just want it to come out flawlessly. im using VHT Caliper paint for the rocker cover. after you finish painting, you bake it in the over for an hour to cure the paint and give it much better solvent resistant finish.






          Also to ad to martin's comment. I'm not to concerned about the weight reduction, but more the unsightly location of the battery. Its gonna be hard to get traction in a any FWD turbo sporting over 300hp.. im a large guy im sure i'll be able to compensate the weight offset anyways hehehe



          And Yes this is all you will require for the coolant ball delete.. for the moment im just running and NON-Returning 16psi cap. but i will be changing this once i get a new Slim line expansion tank and hide it beside the radiator out of view.. i dont really want to be topping up the coolant every week or so ive opted to go this direction.. either way you'll want to catch the bleed out coolant anyways instead of it going all over the road.. the G12 is slippery, and you gotta watch out for those motorbike riders

          Theres a pretty good write up on another forum by a user called " VWTURBOWOLF "
          2000 Mk4 GTi GOLF|

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          • #35
            Just another update,

            A photo of the inline neck filler installed




            Here is an overall photo before my work started today. I had a little green helper today.. Hiding top right. Seeking refugee from th hot sun. I gave the fella a nice soaking and he was content sitting there all day..






            I started work in the rear first.. Finding an ideal grounding point for the battery in its present location.



            I have temporarily hooked this up to make sure she'll fire up.. Waiting for a nice flat grounding anchor whit a larger surface area. Also u can see I have vented the sealed battery through the spare wheel floor grommet.



            I also re routed the positive main line though some distribution blocks and the stock fuse box. This has been mounted temporarily on the old battery mounting bracket. This will be relocated under the cowl when I do the engine swap. Just getting it already so there's less to do during the engine transfer..



            That's all for now..
            2000 Mk4 GTi GOLF|

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            • #36
              Adam's Mk4 Gti &quot;AGU big turbo Build thread&quot;

              Good to see more 1.8Ts going BT. A couple of questions and some info for you if you don't mind.

              Have you got the forged pistons yet? I'm pretty sure you're aware the 2618 low silicon forged pistons are damn noisy when cold, especially the JE pistons. Sounds like the engine is about to self destruct lol. Might consider a mahle powerpak 4032 forged pistons or stick to stock(they're 4032 minus the slipper skirts, grafal coating and weighs a bit more). 4032 will run quieter as they don't "grow" as much as 2618s. The catch is they're rated at 500hp, which is plenty for me. You decide

              Are you gonna use a torque plate when you rebore the cylinder?

              I'm gonna organise a machine shop to make me one cause I don't know of anyone/shop in Brisbane that's got one.

              FYi, I'd highly recommend you install a dowel pin on the crank cause the keyway can sheer off when making double the power. Some people get away with it but I'm not taking any chances.

              No plans on running solid exhaust valves?




              Danny
              ============================> http://www.facebook.com/EuroCarModsAus <============================

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              • #37
                Sorry to say, but i couldnt finish this car off due to forever moving house and never having enough time for it. Everything is for sale now. i'll be starting a sale thread as soon as i have access. i lost my old account info. please stay tuned, i'll post a link in here when i can.

                Adam

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