Headlight wiring

[Wighty654]

Hi all,

I'm aware this probably isn't legal and I know I'm taking a risk but how would I go about wiring my headlights so that my low beam stay on when I switch to high beam. I have noticed when I flash someone both come on but when I switch to proper highs the low turns off. Is it a simple thing to do or is it going to involve lots of work pulling the car apart?
Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks, Josh.

[Stan]

apart from the issues on the electrical side, i dont know if there is any benefit in illumination...

[h100vw]

I used to do this with the uprated looms I made for the Rallyes back in the UK. The lights were shocking and if you fitted big bulbs, they often over heated and cracked the headlight lens.

All I did was use a diode to keep the dip relay on when on full beam. You could use a really big diode but that would drop some of the voltage. A relay would be the way to go.

Gavin

[wai]

The issue is that the bulbs are not designed to have both filaments operate at the same time continuously, and the benefit in illumination would be minimal.

The other is that it might not be a simple thing to do wiring wise.

Before you do anything, it might be a good idea to contact lighting manufacturers and see what they say.

[h100vw]

Just to be clear. the Rallye has separate bulbs for dip and main beam. Not an H4 bulb.

I used to do this with the uprated looms I made for the Rallyes back in the UK. The lights were shocking and if you fitted big bulbs, they often over heated and cracked the headlight lens.

All I did was use a diode to keep the dip relay on when on full beam. You could use a really big diode but that would drop some of the voltage. A relay would be the way to go.

Gavin

[Wighty654]

I have a set of hid aftermarket lights. The high and dip beam are seperate but my problem is the bulbs take a second to 'warm up' so when I flick to high beam I have a little difficulty seeing where I'm going for a couple of seconds. At the moment I have to hold my lights to flash and then flick to high and its a little annoying. I was hoping I could just rewire the switch assembly to just make flash and high run the same circuit.

[Golf-Sam]

I have a set of hid aftermarket lights. The high and dip beam are seperate but my problem is the bulbs take a second to 'warm up' so when I flick to high beam I have a little difficulty seeing where I'm going for a couple of seconds. At the moment I have to hold my lights to flash and then flick to high and its a little annoying. I was hoping I could just rewire the switch assembly to just make flash and high run the same circuit.

you should be able to find a HID relay that allows you to do that .. something like this possibly .. Bi-xenon: 'MotoControl 9003/H4/HB2 - Relay Harnesses from The Retrofit Source Inc .. the description is a bit unclear .. but if this kit is meant to run Bi-Xenon projectors .. it will have to keep Low beam on at all times and activate the flapper to engage high beam when you flick it ..
hope this helps ..

Sam

[Wighty654]

Thanks Sam, I'll see how I go

[dubster99]

while we are on the topic of headlight wiring I just recently bought some projector/angel eyes aftermarket headlights off a bloke here in SA and im sick of leaving my parkers on so the angel eyes work, anyway to wire them into the ignition so i don't have to have my parkers on for them to be on???

[Wighty654]

I'm not sure this would work but couldn't you just run a wire that provides them with power using the same feed as something like the stereo that comes on with the ignition?

[JustCruisn]

Find the correct wire for the parker light on the back of the light switch, pull the pin and connect it to an switched + source.
There is a distribution panel under the drivers side of the dash.

Yellow connector on the left is ignition switched 12V+

[Manaz]

I'm not sure this would work but couldn't you just run a wire that provides them with power using the same feed as something like the stereo that comes on with the ignition?

Absolutely - just find a wire that carries 12v on "ACC" and use that to power the angel eye ring rather than the parker circuit.