Haldex system on 4-motion

[minty]

Hi guys,

I have a few questions re: the Haldex system:

1. Has anyone changed the oil and filter as a DIY job? If yes, how easy was it assuming you have the special filter wrench?

2. Is it really necessary to change at VW specified intervals? I only say that as a specialist independent workshop told me not to bother unless I have driven it hard.

3. Has anyone replaced their Haldex module with the uprated Sports Controller (Haldex Blue)? If so, where was the cheapest place to source it?

Thanks everyone in advance for their input

[h100vw]

Hi guys,

I have a few questions re: the Haldex system:

1. Has anyone changed the oil and filter as a DIY job? If yes, how easy was it assuming you have the special filter wrench?

Did my S3 at the weekend, no big deal. I'd venture to say it would be impossible without the spanner.

2. Is it really necessary to change at VW specified intervals? I only say that as a specialist independent workshop told me not to bother unless I have driven it hard.

I'd do it for the small cost of oil and filter compared to a Haldex coupling.

3. Has anyone replaced their Haldex module with the uprated Sports Controller (Haldex Blue)? If so, where was the cheapest place to source it?

When you find it cheap as, let me know, I'd take one.

Thanks everyone in advance for their input

Answers above

[djorkboy]

1. It's only hard to do because of access, otherwise it's pretty straightforward

2. Never take your car to that mechanic again. It is almost critical to stick to the factory intervals for the Haldex fluid changes. No matter how you drive it both the inputs and outputs of the Haldex are spinning 100% of the time. It's an incredibly complex multiplate clutch system, definitely stick to the service schedule

I have no experience with number 3 but plenty around here do.

[minty]

Thanks guys for your responses.

djorkboy,

When you say access can be difficult, is it feasible if I only have 2 jack stands propping up the rear end or does it really need to go on a hoist?

[h100vw]

I did mine off axle stands, squirting the oil in would be easier on a hoist but not essential.

[Peter Jones]

Yep, agree with all above.

Impossible without tool.
Axle stands are OK.
Change the Haldex filter at the same time.
Service at or before VW intervals.
May as well do the diff oil while you're under there.

I used a plastic squeeze type sauce bottle with some PVC hose to squeeze the haldex fluid in.

[Peter Jones]

I forgot I've written on this subject before.

Take a look here.

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f14/i-changed-diff-fluids-my-4-mo-today-took-pictures-64005.html

[Manaz]

Even with the tool, it's not easy - there's not a lot of room to work in. But it's far from impossible.

The blue Haldex is great, I've had one in the past (and had an Orange/Comp controller at one stage too. Blue controllers go for $600-$800 second hand it seems when they do come up (they're not common). Guy Harding is the official Australian importer, but you'll pay $1600+ from him if memory serves, you can import a new one substantially cheaper.

I am seriously considering going back to a blue controller again, I'll chase up the source of my last one and see what the prices are like...

[JedR32]

I drive with the Orange Competition Controller from HPA.
I went from my .:R32 being front wheel drive to this configuration and it is amazing! I also had a 2005 Subaru Liberty 3.0R Spec B before the .:R32 and the competition controller makes it feel more rear wheel drive ISH compare to the Liberty even though it is actually sending less torque to the rear than the Lib did (probably has a lot to do with the shorter wheelbase).
I would definitely recommend it, I got mine directly from HPA landed to my door for just under $1100 and Mike at Prestige and Performance fitted it in like 15-30 min
An excellent upgrade in my opinion as I can brake considerably later into corners now that the rear wheels stay connected to the engine under braking

Jed

[Manaz]

I had a competition controller for a while, but the binding/crabbing at low speeds was an issue for me (given the car does family duties). I've since heard that HPA adjusted the programming to reduce this. I have asked them about this...

[JedR32]

I had a competition controller for a while, but the binding/crabbing at low speeds was an issue for me (given the car does family duties). I've since heard that HPA adjusted the programming to reduce this. I have asked them about this...

It definitely binds when oil/engine temperatures are low. At warmer temperatures it is less frequent, but can on the odd occasion still happen. I just do three point turns instead haha Mine is also daily'd

Jed

[Umai Naa!!]

The interval for Haldex oil and filter replacement is 30,000klms.

It's not uncommon for independant 'specialists' to advise you not to service it, simply because they either haven't got the equipment or the basic expertise. The same logic apparently applies to DSG transmissions, too.

[Manaz]

Got a reply from HPA, apparently rumours that they re-wrote the software to get rid of the binding are not true, they say there are some servicing actions that if not done can often cause the issue. Will post details when I have them.

[volksMuller]

Agree with most of what has been said.....as a service centre I am surprised that many service centres don't stick to factory recommendations....DSG oil changes or lack there of along with the haldex will only destroy reliability and become expensive to the customer in the long run...choose a service centre that a. has knowledge b. equipment c. passion for the product. cheers steve