Weitec front suspension in - uneven sides

[Dyldo]

Nice link dude - i think i found his post when doing my research. Not sure if it covers all-wheel drive cars though?

[dainese]

nah, probably not then.

as i said, the biggest challenge is compressing the spring and getting enough room to remove and install the bastard.

to drop the arm, i have to undo a fair bit. and remember to tighten things back up when there is load on the suspension (at rest)

[dylan8]

rears are easy to put in if the spring is shorter, I just wound my adjuster right down and with a little weight on the hib you can just pop the spring in.
rear shocks are easy to, as someone said, its a bolt bottom, and a plate up top.
As for your fronts, might be silly, but are you sure you put the top strut mounts in up the right way...?

[Dyldo]

am really tempted to work from home tomorrow, and in between making some sales calls i might just rip the fronts out (they're both clearly off by the same margin it seems) and take shots. I am 99% sure I put the top mounts in right.

Would it even be possible that i didn't compress the springs enough and therefore didn't screw the spring hat down enough?

And wtf is this rear adjuster you speak of?
Is this rear dust guard in the way of the rear top bolt? I couldn't see anything up there from a cursory glance.

[dylan8]

not screwing it down far enough surely wouldn't make such a big gap though? maybe a few mms?
height adjuster for the rear springs (im guessing the 4mo is a similar set up to my FWD) your new springs will probably be heaps shorter, and should just pop in.
I found my rear dust guard wasn't in the way to much

[madglf3]

I can't help with rear suspension on a 4wd car sorry, but I just did it all on my FWD.

Just to check, this is (from memory) how I assembled the components of my struts in the front:


Note that all items down to the strut bearing should comfortably sit on the section of the shock with thread. I originally had an issue with my spring hat not having a large enough inside diameter and not allowing for all components to fit properly. After I fixed this, all parts could be secured onto the thread and there was much more thread left on the end of my strut than the image you posted above, even in the car and including the strut cap. Are both spring hats able to more up and down the shock body without resistance?

As Jimmy also said, did you get a picture showing both struts side-by-side? I wouldn't think you could stuff up seating the shocks into the spindle as there is a locating bolt on the back of the spindle that tightens the spindle, while also allowing for this bolt to pass through the shock's mounting brackets (my standard and coilovers both had this), meaning it was impossible to incorrectly locate it. Do your new shocks have this feature?
Here's what I mean:


Hopefully you get it all sorted mate, once you do I bet you'll be pretty happy with it all. Good luck.

[Dyldo]

Hoorah!! I jacked the car up, took front pass wheel off, jacked up LCA to tension spring, undid spindle bolt, opened up the spindle cup with the spreader tool and BOOM the strut slams home in pretty scary fashion. Lucky all my appendages were clear i'll tell you!

Now my mind is playing tricks on me and I think the driver's side is high, though if anything that might promote even wear and stance with my 100keg frame in there. The top hat caps are now about 5mm off the chassis too, so that tells me things are settling maybe? I didn't give her a hard time though as she is a bit funny with the rears being so off but the front felt "nice". i need a wheel alignment and new rubber to really tell. Nowhere near as bouncy as expected. Maybe thats what you get with quality shocks/springs?

the back is creaking now for sure. they need doing asap.

when i slid on the Tyrol brake caliper kit, i now have a brake pad warning light on the dash. i guess thats a fault tripped when i turned the car on and there was no pedal feel but after a few pumps she was fine? Cleared with VAGcom i'd suggest?

[Dyldo]

Hoorah!! I jacked the car up, took front pass wheel off, jacked up LCA to tension spring, undid spindle bolt, opened up the spindle cup with the spreader tool and BOOM the strut slams home in pretty scary fashion. Lucky all my appendages were clear i'll tell you!

ummm.... yeah.... about that whole "BOOM" thing. not good. the strut assembly - being under the tension it was - has slammed into the cup and gone right on through to the other side. Somehow the bolt hole on the bracket on the strut hasn't either aligned properly or has just bent right out of the way but the pass side is now lower, hence my feeling below.

Now my mind is playing tricks on me and I think the driver's side is high,

it is, you muppet, cause you slammed the strut assembly in too hard into the cup, not knowing that the cup is bottomless. Driver's side is higher than pass cause the strut is now a good 10mm-15mm lower than it should be. I assume this would also affect camber because the hub is off angle? Pics to come anyway shortly, when i get under the car.

Anyway today, admittedly i went to a local Beaurepaires place for the alignment but figured anyone could handle a F&R alignment but it appears not. There doesn't appear to be any adjustment for camber/toe on either the front or the rears. Not the shop's fault of course.

I know there are adjustable rear arms (called tie bars?) but a few folks told me my drop (20mm) shouldn't need adj arms. They shop is saying i will scrub my tyres on the inside with how much i have.

Reading Vortex now - too late i know but whatevs

Total false economy doing the work at home when you're a tool like me.

Anyone have any thoughts? condolences?

[goodfella]

Condolences from me.. this is the reason why I am more than happy to be good at my trade/job, earn coin then gladly pay another to do their trade/job even if it risks being flamed for not being a true enthusiast

Hopefully you can get this resolved quickly and easily!

[h100vw]

There is limited adjustment of camber etc on most VWs. Did you get the number off the Bearepaires boys. Are they really that bad? As long as the numbers are the same side to side and front to back I doubt that it will wear things out as bad as they make out.

The old "teeth sucking, we'll do this lad for a set of tyres, some new valve caps, brake pads front and back, machine the discs and fill the washer bottle", because he doesn't look like he knows what's going on.....

You are correct that a small drop shouldn't affect camber and toe excessively. If it is miles out then you may want to try adjustable tiebars. In my experience running a lot of camber doesn't cause tyre wear. Toe will scrub tyres a lot more. If the rear is out now, then it was out before you fitted the kit.

Gavin

[Dyldo]

so i guess i am driving my grandpa's Avalon for 2 weeks till a Gruvenparts order arrives:-
gruvenparts.com - TT/R32 Adjustable Rear Control Arms
and
gruvenparts.com - TT/R32 Adjustable Swaybar End Linkages

Might as well get toe and camber right?

I didn't get a shot of the figures for the car's f&R toe and camber. The fronts were both leaning the same way though lol.

[Dyldo]

I just had a thought - what if I threw back in the stock springs? That would restore original ride height, and therefore solve camber issues, right? It would create rake in terms of the difference between fronts being 20mm lower and and rears being stock.

[h100vw]

A couple of weeks running with extra camber isn't going to kill your tyres. For the hassle, I'd leave the springs in and sort the camber with the tie rods.
I'd still like to know how far out they are.
Gavin

[Dyldo]

I should have taken a photo of the alignment screen, but I do remember that the rears were cambered in (naturally, from lowering the suspension) and I think from memory there was no toe issue (but can't be too sure on that one).

As for the fronts, I can't really remember the figures but I do remember both fronts were leaning the same way and boy did that make it skittish on the way over to the alignment.

My guess on the figures were left red 0'02" and right was green 0'58' but not 100% sure on that.

Just doing some yard work for the in-laws and then i can jack the car up and take some photos of this dodgy shock install of mine and hopefully repair it before dark.

[Dyldo]

Pics added

OK, took the rim off to take pics to show damage to boot, depth of strut base and the angle of the bend (potential damage?) of the strut bracket.

Taken from a Blackberry camera on autofocus and close focus, so not the best.