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Gearbox rebuilding - my options?

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  • Gearbox rebuilding - my options?

    i'd like some advice on how to go about getting my gearbox/transmission to a nice condition...
    the box in my gti works ok, but i'm fussy and it is very rough between gears, and so i'm assuming that there is a lot of general wear and tear, including the synchros, and all other moving bits and peices. (what else wears out in these?)

    most gears require a little too much force to get them in, which means i often just baby them into the gears. i recently installed 42dd metal shifter cable bushings to see if that would reduce any slop that might be causing the bad gear changes, but it didn't, just made the problems of the gearbox more evident.
    and while i was installing them, i tried some gear changes by moving the gear shift mechanism directly on the gearbox, and it was still as rough, which i guess rules out the problem being with the linkage mechanism and cables.

    Question is, what is involved with a gearbox rebuild?
    Does the mechanic open it up, and replace what's worn? or just replace all common wearing parts? Or entire box?
    And would the cost of the rebuild depend largely on what parts need replacing, or is it more the labour costs?

    If i was to do this, i would be very temped to get an LSD put in, as it seems pretty worthwhile if you can get em cheap from ecs, why not, plust i've been told that dif's can fail so it's good to put new ones in anyway at some stage.... the gti box is an 02J isn't it? (Home Page > ES#248525 Quaife LSD Differential 02J Transmission 114mm Ring Gear - QDF10R)

    So if you could give me your ideas on what options i have, and how much this might set me back.
    I've just spent 4 grand in the group buy on suspension and exhaust among other bits, so i can't see me affording or justifying this too soon though

    thanks

    ps. car is build03/my04 gti and done 115k
    Last edited by McDub; 24-05-2010, 06:47 PM.

  • #2
    I know someone who has a gearbox like which has been rebuilt with a preloquin and ARP bolts, no clutch or flywheel though. They want 2k and the box has doen less than 5000.

    He's looking for a FWD 02M, hence why he's selling.
    80,000km 1997 MK3 VR6 manual for sale - www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f23/80-000km-1997-manual-vr6-nsw-sydney-67658.html

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    • #3
      hmmm tempting... though if i can get a quaife and bolts for under a grand, not sure if i would be saving money getting that one...
      how much you reckon it'd be to install that if it's already rebuilt?

      other problem is i guess i don't know how well it was rebuilt and what parts were changed... so who knows i could install it and it might be just as rough between the gears.
      (plus maybe just a little sus that they did all that work to it and no longer want it)

      at least if i got my box redone, i could insist they do a thorough job...

      i've already got a new clutch and lightweight flywheel so no dramas there.
      Last edited by McDub; 24-05-2010, 07:13 PM.

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      • #4
        i think a rebuild might be more expensive than getting a replacement box
        '01 VW Bora V6 4motion - gone
        17x8 TSW Hockenheims ~ TyrolSport Brake Upgrade ~ SMF + Stage 1 Clutch ~ 42DD Shifter Linkages ~ FK Coilovers
        sigpic

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        • #5
          usually a replacement is cheaper yes, but it depends on how available the boxes are.
          Beware that a 2nd hand box may well deliver you issues, whereas one thats rebuilt you know will be good.

          A rebuild for the above sounds like mostly a syncro wear issue, which are relatively cheap, but its the labour that kills you.
          A good gearbox place will strip it down and see what needs replacing.
          Current: '04 Astra SRI Turbo - EDS IPF Flash, 3" TBE, Quaife LSD
          Previously: Bora 4mo, cams, coilovers, tune, exhaust, brembo's etc

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          • #6
            ah so you get proper gearbox places? any reccomendations on either lower north shore area or castle hill area?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by McDub View Post
              hmmm tempting... though if i can get a quaife and bolts for under a grand, not sure if i would be saving money getting that one...
              how much you reckon it'd be to install that if it's already rebuilt?

              other problem is i guess i don't know how well it was rebuilt and what parts were changed... so who knows i could install it and it might be just as rough between the gears.
              (plus maybe just a little sus that they did all that work to it and no longer want it)

              at least if i got my box redone, i could insist they do a thorough job...

              i've already got a new clutch and lightweight flywheel so no dramas there.
              The gearbox was rebuilt by a Mechanic up in Queensland, the guy is re-building the motor for around 250kw + atw, so the gearbox won't hold awfully well once the new motor is in.

              Just putting in an LSD will cost around 1200 in labour alone, the math isn't really in you're favour as you're looking around 2k just for a rebuild, let alone an LSD install or removing and re-installing the gearbox.

              Things get expensive quickly mate...
              80,000km 1997 MK3 VR6 manual for sale - www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f23/80-000km-1997-manual-vr6-nsw-sydney-67658.html

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              • #8
                Have you changed the gearbox oil yet? Your dogbone mount not worn?

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                • #9
                  yep i've had the gearbox oil changed, that was a waste of a couple hundred bux (did nothing noticeable)
                  and the dogbone is a little worn, i'm trying to get a new one that's not too stiff (like an 034motorsport street density), as i put some BFI bushings in (65A hardness i think) but found them too hard.
                  i went back to the old dogbone and it does make the shifting a little worse at times, but it's not the fault.

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                  • #10
                    A full rebuild sounds a bit drastic for some notchy gear changes. What fluid did you put in the box? Is it drive by wire? If so, can't the cable/alignment be adjusted?
                    2000 Mk IV GTI

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                    • #11
                      Drive by wire has nothing to do with the gear selection mechanism.

                      It's possible to adjust the shifter linkages to a degree (and given you've had it apart, I'd do a reset of the position using a bent nail to get the alignment between shifter and shift mechanism just right).

                      I've just had a short-shifter fitted, and the gearbox is a little notchy, but it's accuate. I'm using Redline Shockproof Lightweight, Redline MTL would be the other fluid to try (they have different characteristics).
                      Nothing to see here...

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                      • #12
                        hey Manaz - how did you find the Dieselgeek install? Did you DIY or pay someone to shred their knuckles for you?
                        MY02 Bora V6 4Mo|Matte Black plastidip|VTDA|R32 Exhaust|R32 dampers and springs|TT pedals|R32 steering wheel|17" 8L S3 rims|R32 sways|Blue Haldex|EBC reds

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Dyldo View Post
                          hey Manaz - how did you find the Dieselgeek install? Did you DIY or pay someone to shred their knuckles for you?
                          Given you and I did all the hard work once anyway, I figured that while someone else already had their hands dirty, they may as well do that too.
                          Nothing to see here...

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                          • #14
                            cool - and you got your oil changed you lucky bugger? I am still needing that oil change tool. Is that still in the GB? I can buy it off you if needed.
                            MY02 Bora V6 4Mo|Matte Black plastidip|VTDA|R32 Exhaust|R32 dampers and springs|TT pedals|R32 steering wheel|17" 8L S3 rims|R32 sways|Blue Haldex|EBC reds

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by dubbed View Post
                              A full rebuild sounds a bit drastic for some notchy gear changes. What fluid did you put in the box? Is it drive by wire? If so, can't the cable/alignment be adjusted?
                              true... but it's not just "a bit notchy", sometimes you have to force it in. more so for first gear though so it's not a big problem (as it's not often you have to quickly get into first)
                              no not drive by wire but don't see the relevence, that's the throttle not the gear linkage.
                              don't know what was put in the box, i'll find out.
                              but as i said, i don't think it's the linkage system because i could feel the same roughness when i did some gear changes by moving the levers directly on the gearbox.
                              i have to say though that the levers themselves have a little bit of play in them, i presume that is normal.

                              Originally posted by Manaz View Post
                              It's possible to adjust the shifter linkages to a degree (and given you've had it apart, I'd do a reset of the position using a bent nail to get the alignment between shifter and shift mechanism just right).

                              I've just had a short-shifter fitted, and the gearbox is a little notchy, but it's accuate. I'm using Redline Shockproof Lightweight, Redline MTL would be the other fluid to try (they have different characteristics).
                              yeah i thought about doing that black plastic lever and bent nail adjustment that diesel geek explain in the short shifter installation guide... that would get my side-side more fine tuned...

                              i think i'll just ride it out...
                              but any reccomendations for gearbox rebuilding in sydney area?
                              I don't see my gearbox lasting to long with how rough it is so it may come down to neccisity

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