DIY installing coilovers & drop links

[gavs]

Yeah mate, this is how I did it, you need a 1/4" flat head screw driver bit, approx 15mm long. Just as easy as using the "$20 bit of metal"

Where in Melb are you located, might be able to give you a hand if you like....

[anth]

awesome, got plenty of screwdrivers at home, I'm sure I'll figure it out

im in greensborough. if i get stuck ill post up an SOS to all VWW melbournians haha

[gavs]

This is the kind of screw driver bit you need.



There isn't enough room to get a screwdriver in there and be able to exert enough force to rotate it. Put one of these in a 1/4" socket and turn it using your ratchet handle 90 degrees and pop she opens

[anth]

gotcha! I'll check tonight, make sure I've got one (99% sure), coilovers arent here yet anyway

[Manaz]

Now my only concern is the "spreader tool" used to open up the gap in the lower strut mount. It says you can use a screwdriver bit in a rachet, anyone done this? gavs?

Basically, you just need to open up the spindle housing to release the strut. You do this by inserting something long but narrow enough into the gap and turning it to force the spindle open. A flat-head screwdriver will do in a pinch, but the spreader tool is oval shaped to make the process smoother.

[anth]

all done! spent yesterday installing the coilovers. Started with the drivers side front strut, what a bitch that was! took me for ever to get it out. Once that was done though, the rest was relatively easy (seemed harder cos it was so friken hot!). That being said, I do have a rattle gun/impact gun, and I don't think I could have done it without one.

So now they're in I have a few questions...

- I re-used all of the rubbers/bearings from the top of the standard struts and put them on my coilovers above the metal top hat (3 pieces total per side from memory). Is this correct or was I supposed to leave something out? The car turns the wheels as per normal and doesn't make any nasty creaks/groans when turning so I'm assuming it's alright.

- My strut tops are sticking up in my engine bay a bit. From what I've searched & read, this seems to be acceptable? Although my drivers side isn't exactly centred, seems to be closer to the inside.

- Also, the drivers side strut top bangs over large bumps, I think it didn't get tightened all the way, feels like there's some play in it. Gonna give it a quick hit with the rattle gun and see if it fixes it. Unless anyone has any other ideas?

[No457 Snowy]

Mate, how many km's did the original strut top rubbers and bearings have on them? because after doing all the work to get them all out, re-using them is not a great idea. New ones will help the feel of the front end quite a bit too.

Actually that could be the reason for the banging you hear now over large bumps. The rubbers get really hard and compressed after many km's and on my car at least, they did not like being re-used and caused the exact symptom you describe. It's also why the tops are sticking up high.

Also, DO NOT use a rattle gun to tighten the strut top nuts as you run a good chance of crunching the top bearing.

Sorry to be the bearer of all that bad news.


Cheers,

Snowy

[Jarred]

...Unless anyone has any other ideas?

beside posting pics so we can see what it looks like now? nope..

if I ever get a noise of creak after I've being playing with something, suspension in this case, I'll make a note of it, and go back and check it, and un-do and re-do it just for the hell of it. HTH

[anth]

Mate, how many km's did the original strut top rubbers and bearings have on them? because after doing all the work to get them all out, re-using them is not a great idea. New ones will help the feel of the front end quite a bit too.

Actually that could be the reason for the banging you hear now over large bumps. The rubbers get really hard and compressed after many km's and on my car at least, they did not like being re-used and caused the exact symptom you describe. It's also why the tops are sticking up high.

Also, DO NOT use a rattle gun to tighten the strut top nuts as you run a good chance of crunching the top bearing.

Sorry to be the bearer of all that bad news.


Cheers,

Snowy

the car has about 100,000km on it, I doubt they've ever been changed, but they didn't look obviously broken or anything, but I might replace them anyway. There isnt any noises apart from the one I mentioned, and it doesn't sound or feel like it's from a broken item. It really feels like something just needs to be tightened more, like theres a bit of slack somewhere in the strut. I could be wrong though.

My rattle gun/compressor isn't that strong, it still took a bit of effort for it to tighten up the nuts, they were still spinning the whole shock shaft.

beside posting pics so we can see what it looks like now? nope..

if I ever get a noise of creak after I've being playing with something, suspension in this case, I'll make a note of it, and go back and check it, and un-do and re-do it just for the hell of it. HTH

I think thats my best bet, I just need to take that one strut out and inspect it, I'm sure there's something that needs a bit of tweaking.


New question: Reading on Vortex, it seems there is a spacer in the strut assembly that people are saying you should leave out when you install coilovers. Its a spacer that goes between the stock upper spring hat and the bearing. Apparently when using coilovers you leave the spacer out and just put the bearing straight onto the spring hat. This is what I meant before when I said should I have left something out? Anyone know about this?

I'm not home at the moment but I'll update the thread with pics later

[No457 Snowy]

If they've got 100,000 km on them you'll be amazed when you compare them to a new one side by side. The old ones will be very compressed/hard and much shorter in height. With those km, new ones will make a noticeable difference to the front end feel. That sound you describe is what mine did when I reused the top rubbers, once I put new ones in it went away. (That was the only change).

BTW, the correct tension for the top nut is 44 ft-lb.


Cheers,

Snowy.

[anth]

where do I get new strut rubbers & bearings from? VW spare parts? Or is there a better place? What's a good price to pay for them?

Now that I think about it, on one of the struts (most likely drivers side), the first nut that holds the rubber bushing onto the assembly actually went straight through the bushing, so it must be stuffed! (not the top nut in the engine bay, the lower one)

[No457 Snowy]

Here's what you want mate, $66.20 shipped to Oz (I checked in the shopping cart). With our exchange rate I doubt you'll beat that locally, certainly NOT a VW dealer anyway.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Suspension/OEM/ES5029/

Cheers,

Snowy

[anth]

mate, you're a legend! thanks for the link

I'll update the thread when I know what the cause is

[No457 Snowy]

An update would be great mate, a lot of us would appreciate it, as it helps other people when they have problems.

Often these "what's wrong" threads don't get updated with a final fix.

Cheers,

Snowy

[anth]

One thing though, if I buy new bearings and rubbers I'll most likely get a torque wrench to install them this time, so how are you supposed to use a torque wrench without the whole assembly spinning? A socket in a torque wrench would prohibit you using an allen key to stop the spinning.

I've been using this write-up as a guide http://www.nclh.org/car/coilover_howto/ and he appears to be using vice-grips on the top-hat, but I don't see how that would work.