Another please explain my dyno results thread :-(

[bujna]

Hey guys

Much like Blue Reality i've had some issues on the dyno.

I was very surprised to see the power figures under 100kW, especially as the boost curve shows that the the turbo is pushing ~16 or so psi. Is the boost dropping off early or does it look normal?

In addition to my signature details i can that i had a 'chinese' forge 007 DV copy, stock n75, APR TIP and a K&N panel filter. I whacked my stock 710N dv back in when i got home yesterday, and it may have changed performance a bit, but i haven't got a boost gauge yet, so i'd just be guessing....

The dyno seems to have been set up ok, since my mate with a Laser TX3 AWD was getting 136kW, and that correllated with results he got from another Mainline dyno in the area...

I am planning on ordering a boost gauge and a-pillar pod from 42DD this week btw

[D3bb4]

your boost pressure shouldnt be doing that... fix it

AFRs look good, so yeah... maybe need another boost controller?

[fuzion]

buj,

Have you chipped your car?

I would run a GFB Plumback, Bailey, Forge 007/p, or an APR Diverter Valve. You obviously can see that your chinese one isnt holding and leaking, so that probably is your first problem there that i would say imo (from experience too)

A J o H n75 valve will stop it from surging as much as well and hold a bit more boost up top on full throttle as well.

for the mdos you have, i would say 88-105kw @ the wheels would be the average if you are NOT chipped. With a chip you should be around the 100-119 mark.

Check your boost hoses, the vacuum hoses on older models tend to leak as well so change them for the sake of it.

K&N's arent good for your maf, change to a pipecross, aem or a 'dry' style filter or your new maf will hurt your pocket when it dies. whilst on maf subject, when was the last time it was cleaned? (not with carby cleaner either LOL)

Hey guys

Much like Blue Reality i've had some issues on the dyno.

I was very surprised to see the power figures under 100kW, especially as the boost curve shows that the the turbo is pushing ~16 or so psi. Is the boost dropping off early or does it look normal?

In addition to my signature details i can that i had a 'chinese' forge 007 DV copy, stock n75, APR TIP and a K&N panel filter. I whacked my stock 710N dv back in when i got home yesterday, and it may have changed performance a bit, but i haven't got a boost gauge yet, so i'd just be guessing....

The dyno seems to have been set up ok, since my mate with a Laser TX3 AWD was getting 136kW, and that correllated with results he got from another Mainline dyno in the area...

I am planning on ordering a boost gauge and a-pillar pod from 42DD this week btw

[h100vw]

I don't really think the boost is surging. If it ran ok before the flash I'd not be changing hardware straight away.

You should log the MAF on the road and see what that is doing. Speculative replacement of parts will cost loads and may not fix the problem.

I doubt that the DV is at fault either, I have run loads of those ebaytastic DV and there's nothing wrong with them at all. Just make sure that it is operational, although I think you would have noticed if it wasn't.

http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/valve_service.pdf Test on page 2.

If you need a VAG-COM cable. let me know I can send you a spare ebay one, that will work with 409.1.

If the car feels faster than it was, then I'd be more inclined to ask why it doesn't look that way on the dyno. Heatsoaked intercooler or something.

My std A3 made 95KW atw.

Gavin

[bujna]

buj,

Have you chipped your car?

I would run a GFB Plumback, Bailey, Forge 007/p, or an APR Diverter Valve. You obviously can see that your chinese one isnt holding and leaking, so that probably is your first problem there that i would say imo (from experience too)

A J o H n75 valve will stop it from surging as much as well and hold a bit more boost up top on full throttle as well.

for the mdos you have, i would say 88-105kw @ the wheels would be the average if you are NOT chipped. With a chip you should be around the 100-119 mark.

Check your boost hoses, the vacuum hoses on older models tend to leak as well so change them for the sake of it.

K&N's arent good for your maf, change to a pipecross, aem or a 'dry' style filter or your new maf will hurt your pocket when it dies. whilst on maf subject, when was the last time it was cleaned? (not with carby cleaner either LOL)

I have the Revo Stage 1 flash.

As far as hoses go, i'm going to go and check them all tonight or tomorrow night. I've already replaced a couple of the vacuum hoses but i think there is one more there that i haven't replaced there, and it's almost as stiff as the others were.

I actually have cleaned the MAF with isopropyl alcohol a few times since i have had the K&N, most recently maybe january. The K&N definitely did leak a bit of oil onto my maf when i first got it, and once reoiled after cleaning. When the MAF has been dirty fuel economy has suffered, but it's running pretty good in that regard at the moment. I guess there's no harm in making sure though. You're right though, i probably should just get a dry filter...

As far as the DV goes i'll do a bit more testing between the 710N and the forge copy, and and try to narrow that out of the equation.

Gav, I've got an ebay vag-com cable coming in the mail this week ironically, so i might be able to grab some MAF data this week too.

[h100vw]

Let me know how that goes then.

Gavin

[bujna]

Hey Guys,

I've got my vag com cable now so i just went and did some logging in 3rd gear.

This is before cleaning my maf. I'm about to go and do that now...

I'm not sure if i've logged all the blocks that are of use, but i believe i have some MAF readings and throttle body angle readings. If there are any other blocks that i should log feel free to let me know.

Does it look like i need to clean my throttle body? I'm assuming ~78 degrees is not fully open (I did have my foot flat to the floor).

[sierra055]

I'm not an expert in these things, but after spending plenty of time logging airflow and lambda values with Gav, your MAF looks fine to me.
In group2, the mass flow looks good. AFAIK, a stock car should run up to around 100-120 while an ECU modified car should read more like 120-140 at WOT under load.

[h100vw]

Looks good to me divide by .8 for horsepower IIRC from Rosstechs site. 170hp

If there's a problem I don't believe it to be the MAF.

This is where the AGU falls down a bit, not much you can log off the ECU for troubleshooting

Gavin

[bujna]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Is there there a chance my problem could be on the fuel delivery side of things? Does the fuel pump usually die in a heap, or can it die slowly? Would a clogged fuel filter make that much difference (the current one is 40000k old)?

I can occasionally hear a crackle/tick sound coming from the front passenger footwell area after the ignition has been on for a short while (with or without the engine running...). This noise has been puzzling me for a while...Is that fuel pump related?

Of course, i'm still waiting for my boost gauge to arrive (this week hopefully), and so i'll be able to investigate my dv a bit more when i get that going...I gave the forge copy a service, and ended up putting that back in for the time being. At worst i think maybe i should get a stronger spring for it, for a test.

[blue_reality]

Yeah a boost gauge is a really good idea. First mod I did to my golf.

Here is a vid we made showing you how to install one - check it out before you do yours to give you some help in advance!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-JieFM0MHA