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Idling issue?

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  • #1

    Idling issue?

    So seeing as though this is really the first time my VR has been running since Feb, I've been noticing some issues wit the engines idle. It's fine when in neutral and when you first start her up; sits at either 800-1000.

    After driving around, when I put the clutch in to change gears or if I take my foot completely off accelerator, the engine sits at the RPM it was just at - doesn't drop to 800 at all. Even when slowing down and I'm "rolling" in neutral the RPM don't drop to idle - I have to push the clutch to the friction point to drop the revs.

    What could be the issue?

    Also, if anyone wants to check it out at NATs tomorrow, I can show you exactly what I mean...
    .:R32
    8L S3
    Mk3 VR6 - SOLD
    Flickr
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Originally posted by drucejnr View Post
    So seeing as though this is really the first time my VR has been running since Feb, I've been noticing some issues wit the engines idle. It's fine when in neutral and when you first start her up; sits at either 800-1000.

    After driving around, when I put the clutch in to change gears or if I take my foot completely off accelerator, the engine sits at the RPM it was just at - doesn't drop to 800 at all. Even when slowing down and I'm "rolling" in neutral the RPM don't drop to idle - I have to push the clutch to the friction point to drop the revs.

    What could be the issue?

    Also, if anyone wants to check it out at NATs tomorrow, I can show you exactly what I mean...
    What rpms does it sit at when you're rolling? I find I sometimes have the same issue where it wont drop at all, but more often than not it sits at 1000rpm when im coasting in neutral till I come to a complete stop and then it drops back to 800.
    Current: 2007 Black Magic GTI - APR Stage 2, Carbonio intake, APR downpipe and catback exhaust, RNS510, Bi-Xenons, Custom Red Leather Interior, Tow Bar, Racks and Parking Sensors
    Previous: Absolute Red 2000 S3 8L - Stage 1 Custom Code
    Previous: 1997 Black Magic VR6 - CX Racings, BFI Stealthlines, Chipped ECU, Genie Extractors, Thule 404s, Fairing, Suitcase delete with hotdog.

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    • #3
      Tps/isv will do this.

      Comment

      • #4
        Originally posted by mb1907953 View Post
        What rpms does it sit at when you're rolling? I find I sometimes have the same issue where it wont drop at all, but more often than not it sits at 1000rpm when im coasting in neutral till I come to a complete stop and then it drops back to 800.
        rolling as in shifting down through the gears to a stop? It'll go through the rev range but when I go from 2nd to 1st it'll sit at 1500rpm (with clutch disengaged) until I come to a full stop where it'll go to 800/1000.

        Originally posted by HaydEn View Post
        Tps/isv will do this.
        I think that may be the underlying issue - will check tomorrow and I've seen a "quick fix" on vortex too.
        .:R32
        8L S3
        Mk3 VR6 - SOLD
        Flickr

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        • #5
          More so tps. Then isv. But both will cause issues.

          Comment

          • #6
            cool cool. at least it's not something major.
            .:R32
            8L S3
            Mk3 VR6 - SOLD
            Flickr

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            • #7
              Anyone in Sydney region have a VAGCOM?

              Just want to check some codes on the car. Have tried one of the throttle reset methods but it didn't seem to work, will try this method soon:

              Disconnect negative terminal of battery
              Turn the key to start possition and hold for a few seconds
              Hook battery back up
              Turn key on, but do not start it
              Let the key set in the "on" position for about 10 minutes
              Start the car and let it idle for about 10 minutes.

              Also one question, I know there are 3 turns to the key, the last one is obv to crank the engine. Which position is "start" (1st or 2nd click) and which is "on" (first or second click)?

              Cheers
              .:R32
              8L S3
              Mk3 VR6 - SOLD
              Flickr

              Comment

              • #8
                Just did the manual adjustment to the throttle body - so far so good. RPM cuts when clutch is engaged and its no longer running rich/smelling like fuel

                Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
                .:R32
                8L S3
                Mk3 VR6 - SOLD
                Flickr

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                • #9
                  Still going well? Do you actually think it worked? I've been told you can only do an alignment with a VAGCOM... So never tried the manual method!

                  I had an issue today when I started the car cold and it went straight to 600rpm, like just missed its usual 1500rpm warm up rev. For about 10 minutes after that, every time I disengaged the clutch, it would drop super fast to like 550 rpm and almost stall and then pick itself back up to 610 or 620. Anyone got any ideas? Seems like a throttle issue to me, could it be related to the TB or TPS? Just weird that it went away when the car warmed up.

                  Also, the aircon wasnt working whilst it was doing this. I wonder if the compressor is on its way out.
                  Current: 2007 Black Magic GTI - APR Stage 2, Carbonio intake, APR downpipe and catback exhaust, RNS510, Bi-Xenons, Custom Red Leather Interior, Tow Bar, Racks and Parking Sensors
                  Previous: Absolute Red 2000 S3 8L - Stage 1 Custom Code
                  Previous: 1997 Black Magic VR6 - CX Racings, BFI Stealthlines, Chipped ECU, Genie Extractors, Thule 404s, Fairing, Suitcase delete with hotdog.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Originally posted by mb1907953 View Post
                    Still going well? Do you actually think it worked? I've been told you can only do an alignment with a VAGCOM... So never tried the manual method!

                    I had an issue today when I started the car cold and it went straight to 600rpm, like just missed its usual 1500rpm warm up rev. For about 10 minutes after that, every time I disengaged the clutch, it would drop super fast to like 550 rpm and almost stall and then pick itself back up to 610 or 620. Anyone got any ideas? Seems like a throttle issue to me, could it be related to the TB or TPS? Just weird that it went away when the car warmed up.

                    Also, the aircon wasnt working whilst it was doing this. I wonder if the compressor is on its way out.
                    Could be isv, though you are obd2? So could be throttle body/tps again.

                    I have a working one going mega cheap

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Originally posted by HaydEn View Post
                      Could be isv, though you are obd2? So could be throttle body/tps again.

                      I have a working one going mega cheap
                      Yeh it's an OBD2. I'll do some more diagnostics and get the dumb vagcom on their and then get back to you
                      Current: 2007 Black Magic GTI - APR Stage 2, Carbonio intake, APR downpipe and catback exhaust, RNS510, Bi-Xenons, Custom Red Leather Interior, Tow Bar, Racks and Parking Sensors
                      Previous: Absolute Red 2000 S3 8L - Stage 1 Custom Code
                      Previous: 1997 Black Magic VR6 - CX Racings, BFI Stealthlines, Chipped ECU, Genie Extractors, Thule 404s, Fairing, Suitcase delete with hotdog.

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mb1907953 View Post
                        Still going well? Do you actually think it worked? I've been told you can only do an alignment with a VAGCOM... So never tried the manual method!

                        I had an issue today when I started the car cold and it went straight to 600rpm, like just missed its usual 1500rpm warm up rev. For about 10 minutes after that, every time I disengaged the clutch, it would drop super fast to like 550 rpm and almost stall and then pick itself back up to 610 or 620. Anyone got any ideas? Seems like a throttle issue to me, could it be related to the TB or TPS? Just weird that it went away when the car warmed up.

                        Also, the aircon wasnt working whilst it was doing this. I wonder if the compressor is on its way out.
                        Still going strong mate after the manual realignment. It definitely has worked but I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days.

                        Car has been sitting in the cold all day, started her up at 7:30 this evening and she was on her cold start idle of 1200 for about a minute before dropping to 800. Drove her around quite tamely until the engine and oil got to temp (had ac/heat running), decided then to push her a bit and it didn't stutter, dropped RPM's properly when shifting up (instead of staying high) and was even better on the down shift.

                        Well there are quite a few posts on Vortex saying that the ECU can run the adjustment itself, and it did in my case but if you have a VAGCOM, just go ahead and run the codes/align the throttle that way - would take less time (I think, as the manual method takes roughly 1/2 and hour).

                        Just remember, if you are going to go down the manual route, when you get to the "start engine and let it sit for 10 minutes" literally do just that. It'll run the idle/throttle at different stages; after about 4 minutes it'll get to this weird stage that'll make the car idle at roughly 500-600 and make the car shake but it's just one of the stages. Shat myself when it did it but it's the norm.
                        .:R32
                        8L S3
                        Mk3 VR6 - SOLD
                        Flickr

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