how to replace valves on a VR6?

[werd_103]

the title says it all. I was wondering how easy it was and if there was any tips n tricks and anything else to replace along the way?

werd.

[Hakan]

Just saw your updated rebuild thread mate you are so lucky for that valve not to put a hole in that piston thats unbelievable . I hope you are going to get that head machined since your changing the valves I recommend changing the valve guides , valve stem seals also the lifters. I got my head machined and all of the above done at Saliba engine reconditioners in melbourne.

[werd_103]

ya i was thinking about it but the valves seem fine and just need a lapping. how much did it cost you? cuz zalemate is selling a head for $250.

[Hakan]

all up it cost me $470 thats sand blasted, head resurfacing , 12 guides,12 valve seals, new collets , new standard valves , 3 angle valve job , minor port and polish mainly getting rid of the rough edges , pressure and crack tested , chemical dipped that was about it.

thats very cheap for a vr6 head . if i were you i would clean off the face (valve side) and check for warpage with a straight edge before buying a head. BTW did u check your piston rod condition ? to see if they have bent or not. do all of your pistons get to TDC when turning over ? good luck with the build i wish i could rebuild a vr6 again it was fun especially when you hear it start for the first time

[werd_103]

ok just had a look and all the pistons reach TDC and i also i removed one of the valves and here is a vid of the runnout (or lack of)

[Hakan]

well thats good news but with the valve you should spin in it slower to see if its bent also put the drill on a vise and do it with each one of them . it would of been better if you had a dial gauge.

[gldgti]

Yah - get a dial gauge anyway, you need one to be rebuilding engines (unless you are a true cowboy ).

Like Hakan says, its a good idea to do the guides and seals.... at the very least the seals. Any time you've had valve/piston contact I would replace the guides for good measure.

... however, having just looked at your other thread.... doesn't look that bad. All depends on your idea of whats OK really.

My grandad has a mk1 diesel (solid lifters) which, after my dad pulled the head, we found 1.5mm deep valve 'marks' in the pistons. (It was bloody noisy before that!) It still ran fine though, and still does after only a new HG and corrected timing (must have been about 4 years ago)