performance help?

[MadHouse]

hey guys im almost posative this has been asked heaps of times before but couldnt find the thread. i have a 94 vr6 golf and an wondering the best mods i can get, value for money ect. not just engine but breaks, suspension, sway bars ect. please get back to me asap as i have a week off next week and wanna get started. let me know. thanks

[HaydEn]

If you have ever looked under the mk3, you'll see how damn skinny the sway bars. I haven't got aftermarket ones, but I reckon they would make a massive improvement.

Coilovers for some lows/handling.

Airbox mod, 1.8t iat sensor, suitcase delete.

[VR6man]

How deep are your pockets?

[Bug_racer]

Start with maintenance first . If your timing chains havent been done do those first , while your at it fit some 268 cams . Then there is the clutch as well , and an lsd .

[MadHouse]

hey pockets are reasonably deep, im after brands to guys cos i dont no where to look for this stuff. suitcase??
not keen to turbo it either before anyone starts down that path. have given the engine a major overhaul already. what sort of cams

[HaydEn]

Drc's are cheap 268's but apparently drop off at 5000rpm, schricks are more expensive but pull a bit longer.
268's they recommend hd springs. 262's are cheap as and are Dyno proven to be nearly as power making capable as 268's without needing springs.

The suitcase is a restrictive heavy mid muffler on the vr.

If your planning biggish. I'd recommend a 10lb steel flywheel from autotech. It has made the engine much more perkier and a bit quicker.

[Water Boy]

- Service
- Polish
- Clean up interior
- Stereo
- EBC pad brake pads, godo rotors and full system bleed.
- Cat back 2.5" exhuast, check out brands such as TT, Miltek, Jetex.
- Modded intake (swisse cheese and drop in panel filter)

- Now i beleive the best mod for any VR6 wanting to go faster is reduce the final drive. VR6's have a very tall ratio box so designed for the autobahn etc. You can pull like 160km/h in 3rd gear. So getting it to accelerate faster with a final drive reduction would be the way to go.

[MadHouse]

Drc's are cheap 268's but apparently drop off at 5000rpm, schricks are more expensive but pull a bit longer.
268's they recommend hd springs. 262's are cheap as and are Dyno proven to be nearly as power making capable as 268's without needing springs.

The suitcase is a restrictive heavy mid muffler on the vr.

If your planning biggish. I'd recommend a 10lb steel flywheel from autotech. It has made the engine much more perkier and a bit quicker.

thanks heaps this sort of stuff is perfect, any idea ho much im looking at and is there a website for them?

[MadHouse]

- Service
- Polish
- Clean up interior
- Stereo
- EBC pad brake pads, godo rotors and full system bleed.
- Cat back 2.5" exhuast, check out brands such as TT, Miltek, Jetex.
- Modded intake (swisse cheese and drop in panel filter)

- Now i beleive the best mod for any VR6 wanting to go faster is reduce the final drive. VR6's have a very tall ratio box so designed for the autobahn etc. You can pull like 160km/h in 3rd gear. So getting it to accelerate faster with a final drive reduction would be the way to go.

sounds good how would i go about that?

[HaydEn]

thanks heaps this sort of stuff is perfect, any idea ho much im looking at and is there a website for them?

Schricks are something like $700
DRC's are about $500

The 262's on autotechs website are ~$300 from memory. If your going to look at getting these. I'll get some with you to reduce cost. I use preeny59 (chris at tprengineering) for autotech gear he is great.

As for exhaust, they are pretty restrictive. But I've heard pretty droney results from bolt on kits, plus by the time you get them here a local shop coud fab and equally good one up for less.



A ratio adjustment would be awesome. Sucks only being able to floor it for one gear and be doing the highest legal speed limit.

[MadHouse]

The 262's on autotechs website are ~$300 from memory. If your going to look at getting these. I'll get some with you to reduce cost. I use preeny59 (chris at tprengineering) for autotech gear he is great.

As for exhaust, they are pretty restrictive. But I've heard pretty droney results from bolt on kits, plus by the time you get them here a local shop coud fab and equally good one up for less.



A ratio adjustment would be awesome. Sucks only being able to floor it for one gear and be doing the highest legal speed limit.[/QUOTE]

yeah im keen to get them mate could you orginise it. il pm you my number.

[MadHouse]

Schricks are something like $700
DRC's are about $500

The 262's on autotechs website are ~$300 from memory. If your going to look at getting these. I'll get some with you to reduce cost. I use preeny59 (chris at tprengineering) for autotech gear he is great.

As for exhaust, they are pretty restrictive. But I've heard pretty droney results from bolt on kits, plus by the time you get them here a local shop coud fab and equally good one up for less.



A ratio adjustment would be awesome. Sucks only being able to floor it for one gear and be doing the highest legal speed limit.

very keen mate il pm you my number if you can orginise them.

[Bug_racer]

- Now i beleive the best mod for any VR6 wanting to go faster is reduce the final drive. VR6's have a very tall ratio box so designed for the autobahn etc. You can pull like 160km/h in 3rd gear. So getting it to accelerate faster with a final drive reduction would be the way to go.

167 actually before limiter cuts in

[Water Boy]

167 actually before limiter cuts in

There ya go 167km/h. (My Mk3 CL struggles to pull that full stop)

[Ben J]

Amen, a much shorter final drive is definitely on my list when I finally get around to my vr6 swap, having never taken the vr6 out on a track when I owned it redline in third was as far as I ever took it. My CL struggles very hard to get close to 155 down the straights of the tracks we have here in qld, is one of the slowest cars ive ever driven haha


As far as handling goes, I'd replace all of your suspension bushings and such, with r32 rear control arm bushings being a nice easy upgrade there. I'd leave stock sway bar up front and add a nice thick rear sway bar. Some decent coilovers if you want to lower the thing or just decent shocks/springs if you want to keep it 4wd height and decent brake pads and such all around and it would be nice to drive. Power wise there is heaps you can do. Cold air intake, ported throttle body, 2.9 clone intake manifold, head porting, bigger valves, cams, mk4 headgasket, exhaust manifold porting, high flow cat, cat back exhaust, chip, underdriven pulleys, lightened fly wheel, 1.8t iat senson etc etc, list goes on and on depending on your budget.