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Originally posted by Shortstuff
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Do mine? Haha
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Do mine? Haha -
Lol pretty sure it would get much quicker after doing the first one! I still have to take out the heater ducting and blower motor once the crash pad is out so I don't know how long that will take. Hopefully not too long as I need the car back on the road by the end of the month.
I'm going to change the clutch master cylinder while i'm in there so I don't have to do it later and will also change the stereo and run some new speaker cables if I have time.Comment
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Why not if it's all out.
I think the general price is about $1300-$1500 for a mechanic to do it.Comment
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I got my clutch pedal welded up by a mate today. He said it's not really a design fault as long as the rest of the clutch system is working as it should.
Apparently the slave cylinder/release bearing gets stiff due to dust and grit building up on it and over time this makes the clutch pedal much harder to push down, which then causes that metal cap to break off.
I have noticed my clutch pedal is heavy and would pretty much guarantee that other people with the same problem will find their pedal is heavy!
I also got my new heater core in today, so it's all starting to go back together tomorrow : )
And a pic for everyone's amusement!
Last edited by Shortstuff; 27-03-2012, 10:36 PM.Comment
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That pic ^^ : )
Also a bit of info that may be useful to anyone else considering replacing their heater core - Instead of mucking about splitting the heater box, blower motor, etc I just drilled out the shear bolts holding the steering column to the reo bar.
I found there are also two more 13mm bolts holding the column to the reo bar, and if you undo these you can move the reo out of the way enough to remove the heater box complete (or at least move it enough to get the heater core out). It can take a bit of force to pull the heater box away from the firewall as it's stuck on by the sound deadening!Last edited by Shortstuff; 27-03-2012, 10:57 PM.Comment
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I need to do that but **** it, i just bypassed it, cbf going through that and doing that much work hahaha-Silver 94 Golf mk3 R.I.P
-mk4 GOLF 2L- daily&project
"If I fitted 4x100 to 5x100 adapters and then a 5x100 to 5x112 adapters... would I die?"Comment
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Car is back on the road. It's so good to drive it again after a week of driving my old Commodore wagon!!
I still have to put the glovebox, heater controls, stereo and centre console back in but i'll tackle that over the weekend.
It probably took about 6 hours all up and i've learned heaps about the car on the way! I'm not sure i'd want to repeat the experience in a hurry though.Last edited by Shortstuff; 30-03-2012, 10:14 PM.Comment
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That clutch pedal is a bad fault. It happened to my VR6, happened to my brother's Bora 4Mo and is also a common fault with Audi TTs around the same age (as well as a few other VAG cars)
It's the welds are a couple of small tack welds and over time, with the heavy clutch the VR6 has, they just give up. Mine's all welded back up and better than new. My mechanic keeps a spare clutch pedal (that's been fixed properly) in stock as it happens quite frequently...Comment
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Yup, happened to me too, driving the car home in a hilly area with no clutch was ...interesting, particularly at intersections. I did a bodge up for a few weeks and it damaged the slave cylinder, fix it once properly.Originally posted by kai_h View PostComment
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Shortstuff's 1996 VR6
Sadly my VR6 has been sitting in my garage collecting dust since September!
Got a few things to do to it but nothing major - engine mount, front strut top mounts, RHR window reg and fix the cruise control.
I ended up buying something a bit more modern and with more tuning options, but I still really don't want to sell my VR6!!
This is what I got:-
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