Auto trans detent problem?

[Corderoy]

I've taken the liberty of cross-posting to this sub-forum as I believe the mechanicals are basically the same as my '95 Seat Cordoba 1.8L, auto trans.

History:

Ignition/starting was operating normally when car was parked.
Has been parked without starting for six months.

Recently fitted reco head and new head gasket kit.
Recently fitted second hand "CFK" auto transmission.
Recently fitted thermo fan sensor/switch.

Car back together except for headlights, grill, front bar.

Problem: Car won't start.

Symptom: No power from ignition switch to starter (tested with test lamp).
Nothing happens at the starter when the ign switch is turned to "start" (with foot on brake pedal). No solenoid clunk, whirring etc.

Troubleshooting:
Checked all engine bay wiring/connectors - ok (can't see any missed)
Fuses checked - ok
Starter removed and bench tested - ok
Flywheel manually rotates - yes

My Haynes does not have an auto trans section so I'm really flying blind with regard to the auto trans detent switch. I assume that the detent switch on an auto would cut power from the ign switch to the starter?

From what I can glean on the internet the Cordoba has a "Multifunction Switch"
This is the MFS on mine:



I removed this switch and had a play with the two plungers. They operate something in the "carby" (or whatever it's called).
When I press the MFS plungers (ign 'on') there is also an audible "clunk" which can also be felt through the T-bar.

I have a spare MFS and harness and both do the same thing.

My question is:
Is this switch also the trans detent switch or is there another switch for that function?

I haven't checked the ignition switch or relay as there was no prior problem with starting.

I've got a feeling the problem is to do with the auto detent switch but I'm unsure what to do next.

Any clues?

Thanks/

[Golf Loon]

It should be in the shifter. Check that the cable is adjusted correctly at the gearbox end and it moves fully forward in the shifter box inside the car.

I`d turn the ignition to on with the reds on on the dash.

Then with the froint wheels off the ground, hotwire the starter with a jumperwire from the big terminal to the small and see if the thing starts.

There is a relay attached to the fusebox that controls the autolockout. A jumper wire there will defeat it too.

My money is on the cables being bent or incorrecltly adjusted so the car thinks its in D and wont start.

Try it in N and a notch either side.

[Corderoy]

As a follow up...

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=25553&page=4

Will save copy/paste and get it back in the correct forum.