GOLFII is down.

[Spyda]

Only had the b....d for a week.

Took it to the car wash and the guy that worked there insisted on showing me how to wash the engine. He said it would all be good. I didnt like it but hey im an idiot.
He said leave the engine running so i did, then as he was washing it, it started to choak, i gave it some gas but it still clonked out. He said it would be fine in a few min, told me to just wash the car and then it would start up no worries. SO i washed the car, turned the key and it wouldnt turn over, made all the usal sounds but didnt turn on. So i pushed it in to the shamy area and looked at a few things pretending i knew what i was doing. Drying the leads and spark plugs.......then i called dad haha.
Waited till he got off work and he sorted it out by drying the leads, plugs and dizzy, as i did but he did a better job. started up realy rought but got there in the end. I drove it to my parents cafe do get some dinner. It was ok, but running a bit rough, i think it was droping a cylinder randomly. Had dinner, went back to the car and the ****er wouldnt start, well it would, but it would sit on idel for about 3sec then drop to about 500-700rpm, sounding realy bad, again like one cylinder wasnt going and when you would hit the gas it would cut out.

Any ideas? Just wet leads?

Moral of the story is, dont do dumb ****.
BTW i got new leads, some Top gun MAX something or other, they said they didnt have anything above 7mm coz it couldnt fit (even though one of my leads was 8mm anyway from previous owner) so i got some MAX, low resistance leads. Any reviews?

[Mischa]

i know it sounds dumb but try charging the battery. if its completely dead from trying to start it so much it might not run properly i had the same symptoms on my mk2

[Spyda]

Fixed it and returned the 7mm MAX leads and got 8mm instead.

The problem was the two sensors on the front of the engine attached to the radiator pipe. I think if you have a mk2 youll know which ones im talkin bout.
When i bought the car one of the plugs was missing and the other one was connected to the blue sensor (closest to the radiator). The way i fixed it was by simply unpluging the sensor. It idles alot higher but it got me home, the idle was at 1k rpm but now its at 1.25k rpm sometimes higher.

What i wana know is....wtf happend to the other plug? What are the sensors for? and why doesnt it work with only one sensor pluged in? is it dangerous to the engine? etc. etc.....oh and how do i fix it, i cant find the other plug anywhere btw.

Help?

[aussieg60]

Blue sensor goes to the ECU and the black runs to the gauge cluster inside.

The blue sensor is usually disconnected for timing check/adjust (tells ECU service mode or something) Without it ECU wouldnt know what temp your motor is.

[Spyda]

Blue sensor goes to the ECU and the black runs to the gauge cluster inside.

The blue sensor is usually disconnected for timing check/adjust (tells ECU service mode or something) Without it ECU wouldnt know what temp your motor is.

Yeah i feel its very slugish below 2k rpm and kicks in very noticably after about 2.5K. When I do hook up the blue plug the car doesnt work. Idel drops to 750rpm, strugles and if you touch the throttle itll turn off, so i leave it unpluged.

Any ideas? Sugesstion? Whats a good vw mechanic to go to?

EDIT*
The one that is connected to the guage cluster? What is it suposta send? When i plug it in to the blue one the MAF thingo still shows water and oil temp etc.

[evorobin]

Check the dizzy is dry for starters

[Spyda]

Check the dizzy is dry for starters

Yep thats all fixed now. Since i bought the car it has been missing a plug for the 2 sensors and the car doesnt work properly with only one pluged in.

[aussieg60]

What is it suposta send? When i plug it in to the blue one the MAF thingo still shows water and oil temp etc.

Your MFA will only show you oil temp which is a different sender.

You can check that the temp senders are working proper. You would need to measure their resistance and follow the chart in the Bentley for that particular temp. (ie. you would get a specific resistance reading at that temp range)

I would just replace them, they not that expensive.

So you are missing a plug on one of the wires ? Buy a new plug and wire it in. Part number should be on 1 of the connectors you have connected.
I wouldnt think the car would run proper with the blue sender disconnected.

[Spyda]

Your MFA will only show you oil temp which is a different sender.

You can check that the temp senders are working proper. You would need to measure their resistance and follow the chart in the Bentley for that particular temp. (ie. you would get a specific resistance reading at that temp range)

I would just replace them, they not that expensive.

So you are missing a plug on one of the wires ? Buy a new plug and wire it in. Part number should be on 1 of the connectors you have connected.
I wouldnt think the car would run proper with the blue sender disconnected.

With the blue conected the car doesnt work properly. With it disconected it just lags below 2krpm and idels a bit high. Do they both sensors have to be pluged in for them to work? Is that why the car doesnt work properly when one is connected?

Im not missing a plug for one of the wires, im missing the whole wire and plug.

I have replaced both sensors long ago, didnt help anything.

Any ideas?

[h100vw]

Post a picture of the engine. It should have 2 sensors to run properly Like Aussieg60 says.

It may have had another engine fitted in the past and not hooked up correctly.


Gavin

[static1800]

The blue sensor tells the ecu what temp the car is, it needs to be plugged in. You only have it not plugged in for changing the timing.

Having water shot at them could have shagged them, it sounds like an electrical issue. Like aussieg60 test all the sensors for resistance to see if they are working correctly.

[Spyda]

The blue sensor tells the ecu what temp the car is, it needs to be plugged in. You only have it not plugged in for changing the timing.

Having water shot at them could have shagged them, it sounds like an electrical issue. Like aussieg60 test all the sensors for resistance to see if they are working correctly.

The ONE sensor plug wasnt working before i washed the engine. I replaced both sensors and it didnt change anything. I think its due to only having one plug.

Here are some pics:
The one plug and two sensors.


The engine (dont worry thats not how the plug sits when the car is running)


The only two other wires that come out of hte same sleeve as the plug wires, connected to the top of the oil filter.


Whats the risks of driving it without the blue one pluged in?

[aussieg60]

Looks like your missing the temp sender loom wires going to the ECU as the oil temp sender wires and black temp sender are in the same loom.

You need the blue sender plug loom really for the engine to run proper.

[Spyda]

Looks like your missing the temp sender loom wires going to the ECU as the oil temp sender wires and black temp sender are in the same loom.

You need the blue sender plug loom really for the engine to run proper.

Is it damaging to drive the car without the blue sender pluged in?

How do I conferm that the loom is missing?

How do I fix it?

*EDIT*
Just had a thought. Why would the car not run if I pluged in the plug to the blue one and it send the info to the dash? Wouldnt the car not run properly if bad info was being sent to the ecu?

[aussieg60]

Have you got any wires cut somewhere ? Follow the loom back to the back of the firewall.

The colors would be Brown/White and Brown/Green for the Blue temp sender that goes to the ECU.

Not sure what long term effect it would have on the motor. Just get it fixed.

The wires come out from the ECU main plug at pins 6(brown/white) & 10(brown/green)