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Kjet GTi Doesn't want to start.

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  • Kjet GTi Doesn't want to start.

    Checked fuel/spark all there.
    Cranked the engine with my hand on the venturi plate and it moves up, then back down.
    Sometimes it will start this way... Other times I have to let it sit and then it still won't start.

    If there is too much fuel getting to the metering head, will it just go back the return line or will it flood the engine? (replaced all the thin line with 8mm Fuel line to the banjos (Last ditch effort to get this bloody thing going before I swap the engine out or do something to it!)

    Help as I need the car after NYE!!

  • #2
    I have had similar issues with my mk2 before swapping to aftermarket EFI.

    Mine didn't like to start very well cold though once it was hot it required cranking the engine for 30 seconds or more with closed throttle to clear excess fuel from the cylinders. This was due to a worn metering head bypassing and allowing the fuel to the injectors when the engine was off.

    I found the cause by sticking all the injectors in glass jars and checking the flow from them whilst cranking the engine, once i stopped cranking they kept spraying fuel until the pressure dropped.

    The metering head has a pressure relief valve in it to maintain a constant fuel pressure and flow. Excess fuel is returned back to tank.

    You could do the same test on yours.
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    • #3
      Cancel that. Injectors are dry. But the plugs smell rich. Odd. Pulled the injector out into a spray can lid. Nothing. No dribble spray or anything. I have a mk1 head I'm going to try, but I don't like my chances!

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      • #4
        No joy. =(

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        • #5
          Originally posted by ozgti View Post
          Cancel that. Injectors are dry. But the plugs smell rich. Odd. Pulled the injector out into a spray can lid. Nothing. No dribble spray or anything. I have a mk1 head I'm going to try, but I don't like my chances!
          So you did this while moving the air plate up,with the fuel pump relay removed and a bypass switch operational ?

          Also check to see if the cold start injector is squirting from the injector tip when first cranking it over.
          Lots of MK 1 Scirocco's...

          If it aint a MK 1 then it must be a donor car ??

          Cheers,
          Grant...

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          • #6
            Originally posted by roccodingo View Post
            So you did this while moving the air plate up,with the fuel pump relay removed and a bypass switch operational ?

            Also check to see if the cold start injector is squirting from the injector tip when first cranking it over.
            I used to be able to start it by cranking it and moving the plate. I can feel the plate suck upwards at the start then it pretty much bounces in time with the cylinders firing I think.

            When cranking, nothing is coming out of the metering head when I removed one of the fuel lines.


            I'll check tomorrow.. I hate smelling of fuel!

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            • #7
              I'd do some detailed reading. Kjet is a fiddle but if tuned right bombproof.

              Bentley Manual: VW GTi, Golf, Jetta 1985-1992

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              • #8
                I know. I want to keep it but I think bike carbs are calling!

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                • #9
                  If the warm up reg is faulty, will that stop the fuel flow?

                  Going to try the injector test this afternoon

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                  • #10
                    Stupid question.... but you do have fuel pressure at the metering head don't you?

                    I remember undoing those bloody banjo's on my old kjetter and getting f*cking fuel in my eyes!! I was like --> then like

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                    • #11
                      Yeah got fuel now. Filter which I thought was installed correctly was in fact backwards.

                      Just been driving it now- still has a stutter, but even better is I now have a hole in my fuel line! I'm about 5ks short of home, but I know I don't have anything there to suit! But I might be able to get a fitting off a mk1 pump setup to suit to get me on the way. Means bypassing the filter but hey Ho! Glad I caught it when I did- right opposite a servo. Only thing now is, how to get parts at 1700!!!

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                      • #12
                        Woo hoo!!! Finally got it home using a mix of old,new and unknown parts! Now to get it running right and find out what that rattle is at high revs!

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                        • #13
                          Good work mate!

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                          • #14
                            Trying to fix the hard start. I think my sensor plate isn't aligned properly. It sounds like it misfires from not having any air coming in (plate too low in the cone) but when I adjust it up, it kinda goes away, but then becomes hard to start.

                            It's starting to do my head in (again)!

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                            • #15
                              It's rare for a sensor plate to just suddenly come out of allignment unless its been screwed with.



                              Best things to check for hard cold starts are

                              Auxiliary air valve does not open Check valve for correct function*
                              Electric fuel pump not operating Check pump fuse, pump relay and pump*
                              Cold start system defective Check cold start system*
                              Therm-time switch defective.... Test thermo-time switch*
                              "Cold" control pressure outside tolerance Test pressure*
                              Injector leaking, opening pressure low Check injectors on tester*
                              Injected fuel quantities unequal Check for equal fuel quantities*
                              Basic idle setting incorrect Check and adjust CO level*
                              Last edited by 86gti; 12-01-2012, 03:03 AM.
                              Cheers, Benny
                              www.axesent.com.au

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