mk2! immac

[mk2er]

hey guys new to this just purchased my vdub mk2 gti 4 door its in pretty immac cond.
im a 3rd year apprentice and vdubs arent as bad as my work mates say they are to work on

its running the 8v 1,8l motor doesnt have much go...but right now just made the air box hole bigger but thats about it...

i need some info on how to get aftermarket parts for this car and what mods are available? thats a good bang for buck apprentley mk3 exhaust manifolds fit bolt on procedure

maybe turbo the motor but forge it and some head work bigger valves
but dont have one clue on where to get aftermarket mods like cams, bigger valves, forge pistons

just need a path to follow. rather want n/a then forced induction
but going to check out the timing due to having a rough idle
it idles asif its got a big cam in it lol will get pictures to show how clean this car really is

ive been reading up about abf motor and swapping it
im pretty keen on that is there more info on that swap?

[Jarred]

welcome mate.

mk 2's are pretty basic to work on, nothing too complex.

You can pour alot of money into a mk 2 1.8 8V, and not get terribly far. About 150HP is easily achievable with a numbers of small mods incl cam, headwork, exhaust, bigger throttle body etc. Alot of mucking around for not heaps of gain, though it would defiantly liven it up more! Big restriction is the electrical/injection system - digifant. Have a search around the mk 2 section, plenty of info floating around.

Your idle is sounds like it's mk 2! lots of mk 2's have this, have a search on the forum, there are plenty of tips on getting it to idle better, ie cleaning the ISV, and there is a proper way to 'reset' the idle/timing, involves removing temp sensors and a bit of a process, but nothing I'm sure a 3rd year app couldn't manage!

If you can get a decent price ABF you'll be laughing, 150hp straight out of the box, let alone cams, inatke and exhaust work. However this will require a bit of electrical work to get done. Best to do some more research before attempting this swap. Read up on another forum, ClubGti (UK based). Lots of great stuff there, or even vwvortex.

All depends on what your goals are, and what you're setting out to achieve (purpose) and of course, budget.

parts. heaps of suppliers here and overseas. Golf Loon is pretty much the go to guy for spare parts etc etc.

again, welcome, and whack up some photos!

[straight_fresh]

ebay is your friend! parts can be fairly cheap but be prepared to pay an arm and a leg on something out of the uk (which is where all the parts for these seem to be!) also get on to bighboystoys-uk.com, they specialise in mk1/2 reproduction and after market parts, also edition38 forums is an excellent source of info and bargain parts, and if your an ed38 member you get a discount at bigboystoys!

[mk2er]

i brought my car into work today got the timing light gun and set the gun to 5 degrees advanced lined up the tab with the tab on the crank so then i started driving and it felt like the motor had no power at all would bog out in 5th gear on a straight...so when i got home i advanced it bit by bit until the drive felt good no pinging noises...then i started noticing something unusual it started like idling really rough then would go back up again then idle rough like its about to die it starting to pee me off can someone give me some advice? and when i adjust the idle speed itmy idle wont go up or down..how do i reset the ecu?

[straight_fresh]

theyre +6 from factory i belive, timing has to be set at 2500 rpm aswell.... i think, dont quote me on this

[mk2er]

is there a correct way of resetting ecu?

[ryana89]

Setting the timing on a Digifant engine is slightly different than other systems. Whereas most cars have the timing set with the engine at idle, Digifant timing is accomplished with the engine turning between 2000 and 2500 rpm. This fools a lot of professional mechanics and hobbyists alike who are experienced with CIS and CIS-E systems which must be timed at idle.

Before you set the timing, disconnect the blue coolant temperature sensor in the cylinder head coolant neck. Rev the engine through 2500 rpm four times to clear the control unit's memory. Loosen the distributor hold-down bolt. Watch out for the radiator fan which can come on at any time during this procedure.

Set the timing to 6 degrees +/- 1 degree before top dead center at approximately 2250 rpm. Tighten the distributor hold-down bolt, and rev the engine through 3000 rpm three times.

Now you should check and reset your idle speed if necessary. The correct idle with the coolant temperature sensor disconnected is 900 to 1000 rpm. With the sensor connected normal idle should drop to 800 +/- 50 rpm.

For Digifant I cars only, you must reset the control unit to its base setting after adjusting the timing. See your factory manual.

Although some cars respond to advanced timing, Digifant does not and needs to be timed to the factory setting for peak performance and to avoid ping. Even with the correct timing, Digifant cars run best on 92 octane fuel or better and may still ping on hot days due to hot spots in the cylinder head.

Temporary solutions to hot weather ping include increasing the amount of water in your antifreeze mix, adding a surfactant (wetting agent) to the coolant such as Red Line's Water Wetter, installing a lower temperature thermostat.

Dirt in the Idle Stabilizer Valve (ISV) is a likely cause of erratic idling and stalling, especially when the air conditioner compressor cuts in. A dirty ISV will cause the car to not idle at all, or may cause the idle to lope up and down between 700 and 1500 RPM.

Taken from here
Digifant Tune Up

And when you have some spare time, all you need to know about Digifant
http://forums.generationdub.com/show...t=26511&page=1

[mk2er]

hey car is running sweet now times all perfectly advanced by 2 degrees then stock so no biggy...but yeah i used some carby cleaner to spray into the intake and all the lines that lead into the intake which i noticed abit of better ilding..so wat i did i adjusted the idle now its just sitting above the 1k mark and its smooth idling but when i adjust under 1 k it rattles and sounds like a lumpy cam lol

its been a week now and im starting to get used to this car...but i want more ooopmh out of this and im trying to get some info on a 1.8l 8v turbo set up is there any threads where a guy has done it and went well?

[straight_fresh]

im currently looking into the same thing myself, my biggest issue is finding some solid info about what engine management to use, also what exhaust manifold is going to fit :/ can buy an SPA Turbo turbo kit on ebay for around 1700 bucks (spa isnt cheap ebay crap like most of the stuff on there) and Black Forest Industries have a few bits and peices to make the process easier like sumps with oil drain bungs on them etc, they also sell SPA Turbo gear aswell but i think ebay is cheaper... oh and be prepared for every one to tell you to just put a 16v in haha

[walshydub]

Just put a 16V in

Have a look on VWVortex for a callaway kit, they're super rare & built for LHD but the ultimate bolt on kit. Also try researching Turbo Technics cars from the UK.

There is always the G60 supercharger conversion option, can they converted & fitted to an 8V?

And there's also this;
http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/f55/...ild-38095.html

[mk2er]

So I sourced out an apu engine which is the 2000 model 20v 1.8 t but is from a a4 Audi which is north to south.. Apparentley there identical to a a3 motor but the sump and turbo manifold is different. I've read up that 20v 1.8t before 2000 bolts straight into the mk2 since mounts are identical and mk2 gearbox bolts upto the motor but will I have to change sump manifold and ecu aswell I'm trying to find a a3 motor all I can find is this and he wants 700 bucks for the motor and loom which is pretty sweet need some help?

[straight_fresh]

I've read up that 20v 1.8t before 2000 bolts straight into the mk2 since mounts are identical and mk2 gearbox bolts upto the motor

this could not be any further from the truth, budget around 6-7k + to get one of these in your mk2 and running properly (that 6-7k is if you already have the motor, 1.8t usually go for 2.5-3.5k for motor, gear box loom, ecu etc) theres a thread in the build section of a guy doing just this im pretty sure

[Jarred]

by all means if you have the spare cash, buy the engine (if it's in good nick etc etc, 700 is a good price, though, how complete is it?), but like was mentioned you'll have to do a bit of work, spend a bit of cash (~4 for engine related stuff, another couple to upgrade everything else) and do alot more reaserch. it's a common swap overseas, and very do able, so make sure you get some reading in!

[mk2er]

yeah i asked him for motor and whole wiring loom no box no powersteering or ac dont need all that...
just motor and loom..motor done around 160,000 he said it was serviced regularly until some hit him and wrote it off so now hes selling parts

i wouldnt have to spend that much since im a mechanic trade prices =P :S and good mate of mine is a auto elecy..but apparently you can get plug and play kit for the mk2 to fit the motor so shweet thats a good start

[straight_fresh]

theres alot of custom parts required which will have to come most likely from the uk, so unless you open up an account and become an official trader for their product in australia, i dont think you'll be getting trade price on most of the stuff you need, and unless your mate is familiar with bypassing factory audi immobilisers (which are programmed into the ecu and keys) you might run into a "bit" of trouble, unless your shoving another 1.8 8v into it its not going to be plug and play, it never is...... that said, if you do go ahead with it should be awesome when its done!