vw mk 2 golf underpower

[shahir]

hi,

i need help in resolving this problem.my car is 1.8l golf 8v gx 3-speed auto..recently my engine cant reach more than 120kmh and this condition worsen when i put on aircond.it also hard to start in the morning as i rev the fuel pedal it stop.i have change fuel filter but it does not work.someone recommend me to change the fuel divider/distributor which distribute fuel to my injector.i really hope someone can help me with this problem.tq

[gldgti]

hi mate -

sounds like you have a k-jetronic injection system? what year model is your car?

k-jet can become a temperamental injection system to operate as it ages and parts become faulty.

the stalling when starting issue might be a fouled or not working cold start injector - this is a 5th injector in the plentum chamber that richens the mixture when cold. or - it could be a swag of other things - please provide as much info about the problem as possible.

welcome!

[h100vw]

I suspect an air leak, above the fuel distributor, which will cause a weak mixture.

I have run a mk1 GTI all year round with the cold start injector disabled and not had any starting issues.

A bit more info on the car would be good. Providing water hasn't got into the fuel I have found K-jet to be pretty reliable.

The warm up regulator or control pressure regulator sometimes quit but generally the car would be a bitch to start and then run fine once up to temp.

It doesn't sound like it is the problem from these symptoms.

Gavin

[shahir]

thanks gavin n gldgti..yes my car come with k-jet system n was made in 1985..engine code is gx..all this while this car has run so good and this problem start when i have problem with my start relay which cause my car to stall by the road due to my fuel pump doesnt run.during it stall i have tried to start so many time before i towed it back to home n fix the relay..after its start..i feel that it cannot even reach 130kmh..how can i check whether it is airleak at the distributor or faulty distributor??

p/s:i thought of changing my transmission auto to manual due to fuel consumption and price..change the txmission or halfcut 1.8 gti mk2?

[h100vw]

If you are talking about the fuel pump relay being broken. Try taking the cover off it and resolder the joints on the board. They often fail and go open circuit intermittently.

You could hotwire the pump for a while and see if the problem goes completely. With a couple of spade terminals, a switch and a fuse holder for safety.

The 2 biggest terminals on the fuel pump relay are the power in and out.

The pump should run constantly and should prove if that is the problem or not.

To check for an airleak, make sure all the hose clips are done up tightly and there are no splits in the rubber pipes.

After that get yourself a can of WD40 or whatever spray lubricate they sell locally. Start the car and spray the lube at all the joints. If any is sucked in, the car will rev up a little bit.

Spray at all the joints you can find.

Have a go at these 2 ideas and let us know what happens.

Gavin

[Golf Loon]

Yeah Gavin is right. I`d also bridge the relay and see if the car runs properly. Shouldn`t leave it like that though.

Manual Conversion in a Golf 2 is not very hard. Pedal box, shifter, gearbox and clutch. Makes the car more fun too

[86gti]

Could be a few things. K-jet is a great set up tho, and not hard to fault find if you have a pressure tester and a multi meter.
I did some work on a k-jet volvo last week with the same problem.
It had good pressure everywhere but very low delivery rate to the metering head. would start and idle fine, as soon as u apply ppressure to the accel it would die. let it warm up and it was fine, but still a bit sluggish.
Turned out to be a ratty main pump, was pumping the pressure but not enough fuel. If it does. I would't say its the relay...as a relay is a switch, so it's either on or off.
Replacing the fuel dist is jumping to conclusions and a big wad of cash....

[Golf Loon]

Car could also be ke-jet. A lot of the Jap market ones were.

[h100vw]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mac-Fuel-Injection-Pressure-Tester-Set-FIT950DS-No-Res_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a543Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem300282458600QQitemZ300282458600QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

To do the checks 86gti is suggesting you need a kit like this one and the Haynes manual. The MK1 manual with the brown cover has the best information IMO.

You need a kit that has a tap in the middle of the pipes.

Gavin

[Jmac]

The guys are right and remember not only testing the delivery pressure you have to flow test the system too and by the sounds its the fuel pump. You mught be experiencing a noise from drivers rear . Dear unit to replace and yeah like the guys say slim chance its the distributor unit. Primary test would be pressure test at the dis unit between it and warm up reg mate.
You should have 55-65 psi there at least
Jmac

[shahir]

hmm..if i want to know my pump delivering sufficient pressure without the test set..how can i do it?just know i jus tried to listen to the fuel pump..it sound the same..but i will look into it as my pump was the initial prob..thanks guy for the info..this forum really helping..

[h100vw]

You can do the delivery test. I forget the figures but you find the return line from the fuel distributor and fire it into something that you can use for measuring.

Jump the fuel pump relay and it should flow XYZ millilitres of fuel in ABC seconds. The real figures are in the Haynes manual, which I haven't got handy.

If the amount of fuel is below that specified then you may have a blocked line or bad pump. At that point you need to know the pressure.

Gavin

[86gti]

the flow test test relies on the voltage at the main pump..so low voltage at the pump means a bit less delivery...
see what sort of voltage you have at the pump between 10-12v is usuall...

run the return line into a measuring cup (mid sized) ....will find the line behind driver side strut tower with a screw on fitting...
run the pumps by putting a switch between the 2 main fuel pump relay pins (with a fuse inline) for 30 sec and turn off.

at 10v you should have around 350-380cm3
at 11v you should have around 500-520cm3
at 12v you should have around 650-670cm3

I know from my mk2....I had very good system pressure in that aswell, and a poor flow rate... but that wouldnt start at all...lol