fuel delivery issue!?

[Jarred]

anything special i need to do with the distributor, or is it just pull it out and put the new one in?

[Peter Jones]

Apart from setting the timing, nothing special.

I'll write it up later on. Busy now.

Pete

[Jarred]

Apart from setting the timing, nothing special.

I'll write it up later on. Busy now.

Pete

you can come over and tell me in person if you want???

[thestu]

you can come over and tell me in person if you want???

your so lazy lol

glad you got it working...

haha i'm sorry i didn't read your thing when you told me to...at the end of reading it i was like the lines are on the wrong way

catch bro

[paulie71]

can sympathise with you.

My Mk1 Cab died last weekend with what was a dead electric fuel pump.

Everything seemed OK but the local RACQ dude thought the pump may have died but to test? - out it must come. After all that I was able to test electrics and what do you know? the pump was fine humming away on a clean external 12v supply but the relay was shot!

So $75 (relay and some new fuel line bushings)and about 2-3 hours of work later along with a skin full of fuel and it is alive!

It is true-sometimes the simplest things are the best to start with!

[Jarred]

your so lazy lol

glad you got it working...

haha i'm sorry i didn't read your thing when you told me to...at the end of reading it i was like the lines are on the wrong way

catch bro

how bout you come over and swap the distr. then aye? mr slacker..???

and it's only "kind of" running may still be only on 3, intermittently atleast. probably timing issue needs sorting.

[Peter Jones]

It's pretty straight forward to swap the dizzy, it's only that clamp at the base that holds it in.

Set your motor at TDC firing on #1 cylinder, use all the timing marks you would for the cambelt. Search hear if you don't know, it's been covered to death.

Pull the cap off the dizzy, the rotor should be pointing at a mark on the rim of the dizzy. If you've got a dust sheild you might have to take it off to see the mark.

This should also corespond with the position of the #1 sparkplug lead.

Undo the clamp, pull the dizzy straight up and out.

Look down the hole , what you can see is the slot that drives the oil pump. Turn it to match the marks either side of the slot. Use a screwdriver.

Take your new diizzy , align the rotor to point to the mark.

Now here's the trick. The dizzy will rotate a few degrees as you put it in because of the helical gear on the intermediate shaft. Allow for it to turn as you push it in.

It must go all the way in to engage the oil pump.

Keep trying it'll make sense when you try it.

To set your timing, TDC is a good place to start.with the dizzy back in and connected up but the clamp still loose, turn on the ignition.

Assuming you still have the motor at TDC rotate the distributer until you see the points arc. Turn it back and forth to find the exact point it arcs and lock the dizzy down there. Your timing is now set at TDC. It should dtart now oncw you put the cap back on.


Pete

[Jarred]

alright thanks for that Pete. I think I'll print it off, and give it ago tomorrow afternoon (after mothers day lunch of course!)

Thanks again.

[Jarred]

Thanks to Pete, my car is running...


to some degreee...

I still have to whack the alternator on, (I'm having trouble with the bracket for some reason ) but apart from that, it seems to be running.

I'll wait till the cooling is fully hooked up (see above) before i start tuning it, and testing! Just have to go over all the bolts and nuts, tighten everything up, get someone else to check everything over for me (to make sure I'm not a tool) and Sydney here I come!

hopefully...