engine swap difficulties

[Jarred]

hi all

I was attempting to put a new 1600 into my car this afternoon., but strike me stupid, I just couldn't get it in. I've got as far as getting the teeth into the gearbox, (and the flywheel past the driveshaft) but I just can't push the engine across any further, doesn't want to budge, and any effort to move the gearbox or engine up or down (with the crane of trolley jack) just results in the gearbox and engine moving up and down..!


So yea, I'm a little bit stuck with it. Dad's home tomorrow morning and he said he'll give me a hand with it, but I'm just wondering if anyone has any advice, or perhaps know what I'm missing or something?

is the clutch not lining up onto the spline or are the angles all wrong of what?

Can anyone help please?

Thanks
Jarred


EDIT: I've also lost some bolts I think when I took my buggered engine out. anyone know (or have) where i can get some exhasut manifold stud nuts, inlet manifold bolts and trans to engine bolts? thanks

[paulie71]

A few possibilities but probably sounds like the gearbox and engine are not correctly aligned. If you have a trolley jack and a buddy to help to align the two so that they match up.

I know that in my dark days I would lift the engine and box out together as it is much easier to fit the box together when it is out of the engine bay.

Also gives you a chance to some preventative stuff like CV boots, clutch and the like while everything is out.

A straight drop in of engine and box would take about 90 minutes max.

[WABIT]

hey mate, you should try this..

split engine and gearbox into 2...

while the front is in the air:

drop the engine down the bay and bolt up the drivers mount and if you can.. the starter motor front mount, holding the sump and otherside with a jack or a stand...,

then attatch the gearbox from underneath and everything elce

wabit

[paulie71]

oops sorry forgot about exhaust bolts and studs.

Try a reputable bolt shop to get some new bolts instead of stud and nuts. Also make sure you buy correct tensile bolts (number on the nut/bolt) in stainless.

Have done this on any car I have worked on and yes there is a cost but it makes disassembly so much easier when you aren't wrestling with rusted and seized fasteners.

Make sure you use ring spanner or socket when putting new stuff in to avoid flogging the heads.

[Peter Jones]

Just keep trying - it'll go in eventually. Turn the motor over a little and make sure the box is in nuetral.

Try rotating the motor as you push it against the box.

Perserverance is the key you've just got to outlast it.

When you least expect , for no apparent reason, it will just suddenly slide in and you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.

Pete

[WABIT]

When you least expect , for no apparent reason, it will just suddenly slide in and you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.

Pete

HAHAHAHAHAH THIS COULD MEAN ANOTHER THING

wabit

[Jarred]

hahaha.

I'm pretty sure that's not what Pete meant, but then again? hahaha

I'll try tomorrow, but I'll take the box out first, put the engine in, and dummy it up with the drivers side mount in, and then attach the gbox. the gbox is lighter anyways

[Jarred]

got it in - finally!

Took another 5 odd hours today, with the help off dad.

Probably would make this the longest engine swap in history, but oh well.

I'll take out the G'box as well next time. I would have done it this time, except I didn't have the spline tool for the driveshafts, and I started with 6mm but nearlly sheared the first bolt that I tried it on, so I left the g'box there.

For some reason it slide in real easy this time, don't know why, maybe cause dad was guiding it this time rather than me doing it myself last night.


Anyways.

Well, at least I hope it's worked Wont be able to find out till I fire it up, which requires me having a few things:

Exhaust stud nuts (full set)
Inlet manifold bolts (full set)
Top g/box/eng nuts. (two)
Exhaust manifold gaskets.
Rocker cover nuts (to go on the studs fromt he ehad, full set)
nut for starter motor bolt. (1)

I know I can get the exhaust stud nuts from the US (GOP), but I couldn't find the other things on there, and I'd prefer to buy local, So if anyone can help me outs with one, two, a few or even all of the bits I'd greatly apperciate it!


Thanks,
Jarred

[GoLfMan]

while your at it get as Valver said to me get the later model driveshaft bolts that are actually a 6mm in hex head instead of the star key ones!

[Jarred]

i didn't drop the gbox, so yea, I'm not going to worry. the boots looked in alright nick though when i was down there anyways.

[Preen59]

I was going to suggest checking to see if you left a socket in the clutch spline.. Seen people do that before.

Change to bolts, M8x1.25, you'll have to check the length though. If you're stuck i'll measure mine on the 8v and tell you what you need. 8.8s (tensile) would be fine, you won't need anything harder. Don't worry about stainless IMO, just get plated 8.8s.