Above Forum Ad

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse

Email Notifications Failing (mostly Telstra)

Hello everyone. Seems there is an issue with Telstra (possible others) blocking email from our server. If you are trying to sign up I would suggest a different email if possible. If you're trying to reset your password and it fails please use the Contact Us page:
See more
See less

16v head on 8v block

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 16v head on 8v block

    hey guys,

    some of you may know from my build thread - i'm currently in the process of building another engine.

    just finished rebuilding a 2l block with forgies and balanced crank.

    am undecided on which head to go with - initially i was going to purchase an 8v head and port it up etc - however recently it has been suggested that i can go with a early 16v head which will bolt on directly...

    i will be keeping the dellorto so will require a new inlet manifold and exhaust manifold...

    essentially im after some opinions/advice with doing this particular conversion - have many people done it before? if so what are the common issues - things to look out for?

    thanks.
    78 2-door 1.8 KR 16v - twin dellorto's

  • #2
    Originally posted by dubmc View Post
    hey guys,

    some of you may know from my build thread - i'm currently in the process of building another engine.

    just finished rebuilding a 2l block with forgies and balanced crank.

    am undecided on which head to go with - initially i was going to purchase an 8v head and port it up etc - however recently it has been suggested that i can go with a early 16v head which will bolt on directly...

    i will be keeping the dellorto so will require a new inlet manifold and exhaust manifold...

    essentially im after some opinions/advice with doing this particular conversion - have many people done it before? if so what are the common issues - things to look out for?

    thanks.
    It's done quite often, but only for forced induction applications, as the compression drops down to around 8.2:1 - far too low to achieve any level of NA performance. You'd need to drop in 16v pistons, but it's a bit late for that if you've already bought 8v spec forged pistons. At this point in time, you're better of just fitting a big valve 8v head, otherwise you'll be backtracking and spending a lot more money

    1976 Project Carbon Mk1 - Sold! | 2015 Lotus Exige Cup | F80 M3 Family Wheels

    Comment


    • #3
      Is it the height of the head which drops the comp? Being a 2L block would the stroke be the same/similar to an abf? What if you dropped a kr head on? My mechanical knowledge is pretty limited, I can look at something, pull it apart, put it back together and make it work but the numbers and decimal points is where I get lost :/

      Comment


      • #4
        It's the piston top shape that changes compression.

        Comment


        • #5
          The lower compression is due to the extra volume contained within the domed shape of the 16v combustion chamber - inside the head. The pistons in a 16v are flat, whilst the 8v pistons have a dish in them. The 8v combustion chamber is inside the block, thus when you mate a 16v head with an 8v block, you get two effective combustion chamber volumes. Conversely, with an 8v head on a 16v block, you get 0 combustion chamber volume.

          If you wanna keep your dellortos and pistons etc, perhaps try an aba or other crossflow 8v head. Would have gone that route myself if i could do it over again. All of your 8v effort won't be wasted, but biggest hurdle is sourcing a head. Everything incl. valves, lifters, cams exhaust manifold/headers etc are interchangeable with your existing 8v components.

          87' MK2 GTI
          13' MK7 TDI

          Comment


          • #6
            You also need to change the intermediate shaft, crank pulley, intermediate shaft pulley, oil pump drive gear and thrust bearing / cover ( where the 8V dizzy goes) use a 16v oil pump, and have piston oil squirters preferably in the *v block your using. Then there is the different timing belt, distributor , plug leads etc... list is near endless... plus you of course need to have the 16V head, cams, sprocket etc...Exhaust manifold / extractors have a different bolt pattern and the inlet manifold as you already have indicated.

            Cheaper option is to buy a complete engine IMO.

            Glad to see that you have your mind working on options though
            Lots of MK 1 Scirocco's...

            If it aint a MK 1 then it must be a donor car ??

            Cheers,
            Grant...

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by roccodingo View Post
              You also need to change the intermediate shaft, crank pulley, intermediate shaft pulley, oil pump drive gear and thrust bearing / cover ( where the 8V dizzy goes) use a 16v oil pump, and have piston oil squirters preferably in the *v block your using. Then there is the different timing belt, distributor , plug leads etc... list is near endless... plus you of course need to have the 16V head, cams, sprocket etc...Exhaust manifold / extractors have a different bolt pattern and the inlet manifold as you already have indicated.

              Cheaper option is to buy a complete engine IMO.

              Glad to see that you have your mind working on options though
              What Grant said..


              Either buy a 16v or continue with your 8v, dude.

              APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
              Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
              Email: chris@tprengineering.com

              Comment

              Working...
              X