Timing belt refitting

[reborn]

Today my loyal friends and I replaced the water pump on the Mk1 (1.6tr). To do this we had to remove the timing belt. We marked them off however when we refitted there was no fire...

Can anyone advise me how to get the timing right? (timing points?)
This stuff should be in the manual right?

Its not leaking any water!

[Golf Loon]

Line up the notch on the bottom end pulley with the mark on the belt cover. Check its right with a screwdriver down no 1 plug hole.

Line up the mark on the top pulley on the cam.
Often the mark is on the inside of the wheel and lines up with the top of the head.

At least its a 1.6 and non interference

[gtimk5]

0 on the flywheel is TDC.
Remove the dizzie cap and turn the aux shaft till the rotor is lined up with no.1 notch in the body of the dizzie.
The notch on the inside of the cam sprocketshould be set to line up with the top of the rocker to head surface, where it sits on the head. That is, to line up with the actual rocker cover, not the head surface.
The adjuster should always be adjusted in a clockwise direction.
By the way, the cam belt doesn't have to be removed to do a Mk1 timing belt.
Good luck with it, and let us know how you get on with it.
Andrew

[Dan]

By the way, the cam belt doesn't have to be removed to do a Mk1 timing belt.

hahaha...Iknow what you meant to say....., I was thinking the 'same' thing as you do not have to remove the timing belt to replace the water pump, you loosen the belt at the alternator.

[reborn]

hahaha...Iknow what you meant to say....., I was thinking the 'same' thing as you do not have to remove the timing belt to replace the water pump, you loosen the belt at the alternator.

Loosen off the alternater... Not to take off the timing belt?!? To drop the waterpump, because it is 'inset' it appeared we had to take off the lower gear. If it can be done how?

Anyway we have followed the steps and the timing should be right now however it will still not fire. We suspect that the severe backfiring has had some effect on the carby which is blowing a heap of fuel out of the breather hole now. A carbie spitting fuel like that is surely stuffed?!?

We will put the 32/36 on it with the new manifold and see if we have any joy.

[h100vw]

If you just replace the pump and not the housing as well then the timing belt gets in the way.

Doing this is false economy as the additional time taken far outweighs the cost of the full pump.

Gavin

[reborn]

If you just replace the pump and not the housing as well then the timing belt gets in the way.

Doing this is false economy as the additional time taken far outweighs the cost of the full pump.

Gavin

indeed it is! yes, we did the housing as well. Could not for ths life of see it coming off without the extra work. thanks Gavin

[h100vw]

They do for sure mate. 4 big bolts from the front and one that goes through the tinwork behind the cambelt.

It's been a year since I did one but I am 99% sure the cambelt needn't be touched.

You should at least be pleased it wasn't the pump in a G60, as they really are a swine to do.

The charger has to come out as it's bracket is held on by the same bolts as the pump.

Gavin

Just seen it's a diesel, maybe that makes a difference?

[reborn]

It is a red coat GLD. The first owner put a 1.6 petrol in it when the diesel blew up in remote North west WA many years ago. It was the quickest replacement they could find...

Just hope this new webber gets me mobile again - it always happens at the worst times!

[gtimk5]

It is a very simple job to remove the 4 8m/m bolts and timing cover 6 m/m bolt.
You need to step back 1st and think, why did it backfire after you reset the cam timing? The needle valve must be sticking if fuel is coming out of the discharge nozzle. Carbies dont just "stuff up" like that.
Before you go changing manifolds and carbies, find out why it doesnt all of a sudden go.
Good luck, Andrew

[reborn]

The needle valve must be sticking if fuel is coming out of the discharge nozzle. Carbies dont just "stuff up" like that.

Hey Andrew, We dont want to add another variable to the mix - being the new manifold and webber and would like to see it run with the current carby first.

Is it easy enough to check out the needle valve? I will have a search for carby threads and see what has been put up about this... This carby has been sitting dry on the car with no use for over 7 years btw - this wouldnt help the seals etc.

We are certain the reason it backfired was because we did not get our marks right however were sure they are right now. We have good spark too btw.
Lucas

[gtimk5]

Hey Lucas, it is pretty easy to remove the carby top in place. 5 screws, accellerator return spring and choke wire or hoses. Thats it and off the top comes. The needle valve is screwed into the top. If its been sitting for so long, chances are it has stuck in the open position. A slight tap and blow through and see how you go there mate. Be careful with the top gasket as they are getting hard to get.
Cheers, Andrew

[Jmac]

Im 100% sure you dont need to touch the cam belt , however now that you have and you are sure the timing is right ( cam timing) swap number 2 with 3 lead on your dizzy, you might be 180 out on the Aux shaft. remember number 1 is always across from 4 no matter what or where the dizzy is sitting but 3 and 2 you can mix up.
Good luck mate.