Help with GTI 8V/16V knowledge

[bmarshall]

Hi im keen on building a up a GTI for a hill climb/circuit car. I dont know a lot about the 8V or 16V engines, im after a bit of information. Im from the 1.8T scene!
The 8V is not a cross flow head or does it come in both spec?
What year did the 8V come with EFI?
The 16V came on the mk2 only, is this correct?
Is there any difference in gearbox specs?
I will be using a haltec or ems ecu for this engine and building it for racing spec.
Thanks.

[Jarred]

-8V head came in cross and counter flow configs. Most common is counter flow. Some late model seats (ie, 99) had 1.6 8V with a cross flow head. The ABA is an american motor, but is a 2.0L 8V with a cross flow as well. Few floating around these parts, or pick on up dirt cheap from the US.
-In australia, the first EFI 8V was in the mk 2 GTI, in '90. It's a bit shonky. (digifant)
-16V's came in mk 2's, mk 3's and seat cupra (which is itself a bit of a cross between mk 2 and 3). Also came in passats (b3), and a couple seat toledo's. best chances for a 16V in OZ is to ring up Golf Loon, or find yourself a wrecked seat. mk 2 had 1.8l KR, the others were mainly ABF's, except the passat, which was a 9A. No mk 3's in OZ came factory with 16V engines, nor did mk 2's (imports only). Just the Seats only. Yes, 16V's make more power and torque than 8V's. This is important for track work. Worked 8V will only have the about the power of a standard 16V. (generally)
-There are many different gearbox codes. Late model mk 1's, mk 2's and mk 3 (non VR6) all run 020 5 speed box. (and all 8V seat ibiza's, cupras and toledo') They all have different codes. Search on the forum, there are a couple links which list all the different codes and thier ratios and FD's.

Read Pete Jones 's threads (wreck to race) which will have ALOT of very useful information in it about what you're planning on doing.

My personal recommendation (if you want to build a serious car, and spend a serious bit of money) Buy an ABF, get a ported head from the UK or US, and run it on standalone with big cams. If you're really serious, drop in some new pistons and up the compression. Should be close to 200HP there.

hope this helps.

[h100vw]

8 valves have been done in both crossflow and reverse flow(can't think of the real term).

16 Valve KR motors came out in the MK2, it was also fitted to the MK2 Scirocco, which has the mk1 chassis. The K-jet runs off the same side as the MK1 GTI. Where the MK2 runs of the other side.

VW started running EFI/digifant from late 87, 88 model year in Europe.

16V MK2 has a different ratio for top gear, others are the same I believe. It's a bit shorter than the 8V.

The 2 litre 16V is a different beast, it has digifant injection and has the throttle response of a K-jet car. The inlet cam on the ABF is softer than that of a KR for emissions/CAT reasons. A KR cam will run in there no problems.

Cheers

Gavin


Beaten and didn't go into detail like Jarred. Forgot about all the odd ball ones they had in Europe, like the ABF Passat, only saw one in the UK in RHD.

[dubmc]

if you have the money I would go all out from the outset...for me it would be hard to go past a 16V and as Jarred said with some work it will make very strong figures...or alternatively a high comp 1.6 that will rev to 13K (or thereabouts) like woodward's ha!

[bmarshall]

Thank guys, lots of info there.
In not looking to throw lots of $'s at it, that's what my A4 tq is for. Hehe.
I like the idea of a mk1 gti with about 150hp high rpm engine for a bit of fun.
I'm assuming they would only weigh around the 900kg mark fully gutted?
Where is the best place to buy performance parts? I was looking at USRT site. I usually get my 1.8t parts from 034 or ecs.

[Jarred]

firstly, there aren't too many GTI's floating around, most are just GLS/LS's.

Weight will probably be around that, if not a touch lighter.

Sounds like your best bet would be a 16V, even run it on factory ECU, or hell, even twin carbs. (no need to waste $$$ on aftermarket ECU, if you're running a stock engine) You can make an 8V produce 150HP (with some $$) or just buy a 16V that'll already have it. Even if it costs alot more to buy the 16V from the outset.

Performance parts, URST, ECS, autotech etc. I think you probably already know most of them.

What is your $$ budget? Frankly, that'll dictate the best course of action.

[Water Boy]

Dont forget, suspension, brakes, race seat, gearbox/diff and that Mk1's are becoming rusty and some people want crazt coin for them.

DO IT....

[dubmc]

I'm assuming they would only weigh around the 900kg mark fully gutted?.

just took mine over the weigh bridge for rego...2 door mk1 with full interior and 1/2 tank petrol was 830 kgs.

[Preen59]

Go 16v if you ask me.

If you want any gear, flick me an email. I can also steer you in the right direction as far as a complete engine package is concerned.

My project car is below..

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/f55/mk1-16v-project-11586.html

Enjoy.