Noisy Lifters, ATF Trick DIesel Trick?

[h100vw]

A partially blocked oil pump strainer will have the same affect. I don't want to be a scare monger but it needs to be said. Running any kind of cleaning agent in the engine can and will loosen years of baked on sludge. Once this is floating around the oil, it might block the strainer.

If you particular engine has missed some oil changes in the past, this is more likely to happen. If you carry it out on a new motor at every oil change then the build up will not occur.

For safety's sake, I'd do the cleaning agent thing and then consider dropping the sump before re-filling. The cost of a sump gasket is minimal compared to a blocked strainers worst efforts.

If you have some history for the engine and can see through the oil filler, that the head is in a clean condition, then it would be much less of a worry.

Gavin

[brad]

I take it you drop the diesel and filter and refill?

yep! You cannot load the engine at all with diesel in the sump. It is essentially a light oil - like sewing machine oil. It will not take any significant load beyond idling.

Generally, change the filter & dump the diesel & put in something cheap. Run the cheap stuff for 1000-3000km (until it's badly discoloured) & then do filter/oil again with your regular brand.

[brad]

A partially blocked oil pump strainer will have the same affect. I don't want to be a scare monger but it needs to be said. Running any kind of cleaning agent in the engine can and will loosen years of baked on sludge. Once this is floating around the oil, it might block the strainer.

Agree.

The gentler way is to buy the cheap diesel oil (because it is full of detergent) in bulk, something like a 10w-40 and change the oil as soon as it colours up. It probably means a change every 2000-5000km. If you are running a quality filter like a Mann, Mahl or a Hensch(sp?), then you can leave the filter for about 10,000km.

All of the above is probably pretty useless if you do lots of short trips & the oil isn't up to NOT for decent time periods. Cold oil won't clean an engine.

[GRN_VAGN]

mines a 1.8L with Hydraulic Lifters.

I have Put 200ml of ATF in and have given it a short drive. Have noticed the sound comes and goes now, so will drive it a bit more over next few days.
Dont know history of engine, but it cam From Golf Loon, so it cant be too bad

H100, ill most likely pull the sump off and clean out the oil pump and filter bit. I just dont want to be doing that yet,

Is there any damage a ticking lifter can do? i dont really like to go over 3000rpm atm as it chatters a bit.
Would loading up the engine help anything? i noticed if i tried to pull from 40 kays in 4th, it would chatter, but then for 2-3 mins after it would be silent.

[brad]

What oil are you running? How brown/black is it?

200ml of ATF won't work in a hurry but that's OK.

A ticking lifter is mainly annoying & you might lose a slight bit of power. I can't think of any damage that may be done.

[h100vw]

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/f55/rebuilding-hydraulic-tappets-2183.html

The tapping is due to the cam hitting the tappet because the clearance isn't getting closed up tight enough. I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Gavin

[ozgti]

My strainer was clear. I have a new oil pump coming, so Imight do the ATF trick and see what comes out. Time to put my sump back on I guess! (crap!!!)

[GRN_VAGN]

running 20w/50 if i remember correctly
Genuine Oil filter.

Oil was the same colour is was when i poured it in, now with a slight tinge of red haha.
Added a bit more ATF, havnt run it yet though.

Its just a annoying noise really, sometimes pretty loud ... ive only done 30kays since ive put engine in, and im guessing its been sat around for atleast a year.

[brad]

I'd be more inclined to run a 10w-40 but I'm sure Golf Loon has advised you what's best.


I think you just need to drive it at normal operating temp & see what happens.

[ozgti]

I think Repco recommended 10w 50!

[GRN_VAGN]

well i got to flush it out anyway,

and i used to run 20/50 in old engine, so just went with it again.
What does everyone else recommend?

I have ran it op temps (im assuming around 85 degrees is right)
Longest drive was 15 mins, tapping started about 8 mins in, couldnt bear it more then 7 mins

[ozgti]

I wonder if the issue I had was oil too thin..

[Jarred]

i've always used 20/50 in older engines

[brad]

well i got to flush it out anyway,

and i used to run 20/50 in old engine, so just went with it again.
What does everyone else recommend?

I have ran it op temps (im assuming around 85 degrees is right)
Longest drive was 15 mins, tapping started about 8 mins in, couldnt bear it more then 7 mins

I doubt the oil would be at NOT by 15 mins. You really need to run it longer.
20w-50 is for Holdens & Fords with stupidly big clearances & big diameter oil galleries IMO. Oil Pump would be working overtime, small galleries would have very low volume going through them.

i think you should be running a 5w-40 or 10w-40 (personally i'd run 10w-30 but i know you'd disregard that recommendation )

[GRN_VAGN]

I doubt the oil would be at NOT by 15 mins. You really need to run it longer.
20w-50 is for Holdens & Fords with stupidly big clearances & big diameter oil galleries IMO. Oil Pump would be working overtime, small galleries would have very low volume going through them.

i think you should be running a 5w-40 or 10w-40 (personally i'd run 10w-30 but i know you'd disregard that recommendation )

I disregard No opinions mate, Im noob when it comes to this stuff... What is the normal Temp for these engines, ive had the gauge say 3/4 and sensor for that is on rear of head. above gearbox.

My speco gauge said 95 degrees when stock gauge read 3/4.
the sensor for the speco gauge is in the top hose flange that bolted to the head
I just grabbed the bottle, it said for 90's engines, so i got it... (engine is mk3 engine, 1995 i think matt said)

I will flush it and run something like 10w40w and see how it goes.