If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed, registering will remove the in post advertisements. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
This means you should apply for your renewal now to avoid any disruptions to your membership whilst the renewal process is taking place! NOTE: If you have an auto renewing subscription this will happen automatically.
but then i noticed the starter motor getting fairly hot..
Under normal cranking it shouldn't get hot. If you crank it for >20 sec then you'll feel a rise in temp on the armature casing. A hot starter usually indicates high resistance and this can be caused by a number of things. Starter motors ain't rocket science so pull it off and take it to bits. First check that all resistances are within specs (you'll need a multimeter and a good workshop manual) and if they are, clean the commutator with fine wet and dry. Hopefully it isn't too eroded which case it will have to be skimmed. Check the commutator for arcing between the segments and if there are traces of copper use a scriber to get rid of them. Look at the bushes (especially the bush at the pinion end) and if there's play replace them. Obviously if the brushes are sticking or worn replace them.
does any body know what charge the alternator should be putting out for a KR donk?
Should be between 13.5 and 14v. Just put the multimeter probes on the + and - terminals on the battery and rev up to about 2000
damn bat mobile wont even start...ill have to run!!
Mate, put a fat earth wire from the earth terminal on the battery to the bolt that holds the starter in. An extra earth is ok. It will then make a good circuit and should crank faster.
If its still not cranking fast enough, take out one spark plug and try it with just 3. I have started many a reluctant motor this way. Once it fires first time, stick the plug back in and you are done.
Let us know how it goes boy wonder
sigpic Camden GTI Performance. VW / AUDI Specialists
All Mechanical Work, Log book Servicing, New and used Parts and Imports
19-20/6 Badgally Road, Campbelltown, 2560 02 4627 3072 or 0423 051737www.camdengti.com
i had a problem like this with my 16v, very hard to turn over.
get the earths sorted
i would check to see if you can turn the motor over by hand. if its to hard, take the spark plugs out and turn by hand. if its still hard to turn over, check that the caps holding the camshafts are done to the right torque. (just an idea - i am sure this is what was holding mine up)- be careful not to break the cap studs.
if that doesnt seem to be the problem, check your ignition timing. it maybe to advanced for cranking? take the sparkplug leads off and crank it.
ok found another problem, no spark!! hahahaha yesterday i had spark but not today.....i traced back to the starter coil, its an old oil one and looks like a POS so decided to get a new one, , looked at the bosch gt40rt, but apperently these are no good for the KR using electronic ignition setup,
screw this!! basically i want a new starter coil and cant find one, what are you guys using in your 16v's?? i am using an ignition module to
im guessing i could use a mk3 coil or similar
oh and is there an easy replacement KR distributer, ive seen some neat ones going around where the lead plugs are on top not the side, ,any body know of these cuz mine is old and crook and probably part of the problem
guide me people please......
here are some pics, engine bay is practically at the finished stage and ive found my brake problem!! its the fluid tank, its just crap and old and leaks air but perfect design cuz its off centred on the list to replace. my alternator sits funny cuz my bracket welding is crook and not straight, will have to have another crack at that too.
this weekend folks, or im not going back to work untill im driving my golf
Those dissy caps are for the Mk3 GTI 16v or cuprasport Ibiza.
Glad your brake booster is ok.
Keep us posted
sigpic Camden GTI Performance. VW / AUDI Specialists
All Mechanical Work, Log book Servicing, New and used Parts and Imports
19-20/6 Badgally Road, Campbelltown, 2560 02 4627 3072 or 0423 051737www.camdengti.com
Good Work Al, clearly you fond a coil.
Fancy a drive to Sydney for a cruise with us all next Sunday?
sigpic Camden GTI Performance. VW / AUDI Specialists
All Mechanical Work, Log book Servicing, New and used Parts and Imports
19-20/6 Badgally Road, Campbelltown, 2560 02 4627 3072 or 0423 051737www.camdengti.com
haha yeah wasnt the coil i tested it with a multi and all the numbers seemed roughly correct so i pulled my dizzy apart and it nearly made me sick as to the state it was in, cleaned it and rewired 2 of the 3 broken wires...... and i installed kenworth truck cables thicker than my thumb as my new earth leads and one to the starter bolt like you said new battery terminals and it was crazy fast cranking and started 1st go, ive got the software for microtech to get it running better but is tricky the only bit i was brave to do was the ignition timing.. so i think its wise letting the pro's do the tuning, i can learn how to tune on another engine as i want this motor to actually survive hahahaha
its scary cuz i have been going over the car a few times to see if ive forgotton something befor i hit the tune shop, and i hadnt put my rear engine mount bolts (chassis side) on and tightened my bottom strut brace bolts either..... damn but all is ok now just drove it out of the garage!!!! ready for tomorrow, work can wait
thanks all for your help. bitchasssss
depend on when i can it it in the tune shop lune i will definatly be there with bells on
need to fix a few things like door pin strip, and paint hahaha, my gears!! cuz 1st is reverse position, 3rd is 1st and 5th is 3rd, and my motor seems to be on a bit of a lean which is not good as the gearbox is hitting the bottom strut brace, so ill be fixing a lot of things tomoz, but hopefully evrey thing is ready for this cruize on the weekend, be a good time to run it in..
this is my remidy for taking out the rain tray, will get fresh air and not the smoky engine fumes, yet to screw it together and seal it off, should be buet
previous leaking air sensor.. not any more
fuel rail
looks like a track basher cuz of my past neglect which i sorta regret now it was mint when i got it
well hit the tune shop today he pluged the laptop in and told me he was doing a roling road tune because the dyno was rooted, so i didnt get to video tape it was not very happy .... butwas happy when he said it will only take about 20mins to do.... but when he pulled back into the shop 20mins later...i wasnt so happy, water was pissing out he said "its tuned but you may need to have a look at that leak" holy crap man hope my head gasket hasnt gone to,,,, i knew the radiator was old but this just confirmed it....... it was cracked all over the place, did a compression test on the engine and all was fine, thank god!!!
so its definatly time to get rid of the mk1 raditor and get a proper custom made one, he quoted me at $700. thought id shop around first or look at a mk2 reco........
used most of my sick days at work up so a few more weeks befor im able to join you on a sydney cruise... head down bum up and do some overtime, ,need bling bling
Comment