8V camshafts,

[GRN_VAGN]

Got 2 different Camshafts here. both out of 1.8L.

One has a rather pointy lobe and has 026 printed on it, also the has VW and the audi logo. has G closest to cam wheel. think its got a K on it too.

Second one has fatter lobes, cant see any VW or audi marks, just a EP25 and a CWC.

[Preen59]

The one with "G" on it is, and you'll have never seen this coming.. A G grind cam. Probably THE best OEM 8v cam you can get.

The other one, i have no idea.. But it looks to have a lot more duration.. The duration @.050" would be a great deal higher. Probably a better option depending on what you want to do with it..

The G grind will work good with carbs, and pretty much any carb or even duals. The larger cam (depending on the spec ofcourse) should work better with a big carb(s).

It depends on what head you want to put them in though.. No sense running a massive cam and big carbies with a little valve head that's had no port work, etc etc.

Have you used either of them?

[GRN_VAGN]

Ive used the "G" grind one, and it was a revvy little sucker. engine has weber 32/36, extractors, electric dizzy, and that cam.. and i had it hit 6500rpm and that felt like a short ****, cause it was still making power when i changed.

the other cam i dunno. was told it was lumpy. but the lobes look to pointy to make any "lump" at idle.

If the G grind is OEM, why does it not have VW markings on it?

[Preen59]

Ive used the "G" grind one, and it was a revvy little sucker. engine has weber 32/36, extractors, electric dizzy, and that cam.. and i had it hit 6500rpm and that felt like a short ****, cause it was still making power when i changed.

the other cam i dunno. was told it was lumpy. but the lobes look to pointy to make any "lump" at idle.

If the G grind is OEM, why does it not have VW markings on it?

You said it did dude..

One has a rather pointy lobe and has 026 printed on it, also the has VW and the audi logo. has G closest to cam wheel. think its got a K on it too.

If you're running a 32/36 i wouldn't bother going to a bigger cam. You could go bigger with your carbie before you need to go bigger with the cam.

[GRN_VAGN]

ahh so i did,

Hang on think i got it wrong .... "runs out to shed"

[GRN_VAGN]

Ok checked,

Yes the "g" has vw sign, and the 026 on it... but looks like its got a regrind done at some stage.

the one in top pic is the "G" cam and the 2nd pic is the CWC cam.

Think i may use the CWC one cause it made good power, nice range. lumpy idle. was good

Anyone want a G cam?

Also, can i just swap cams and not adjust anything else? havnt worked on a ohc in a while so forget stuff. used to pushrods and tappets in the rolla

[Preen59]

Not if it's a solid lifter head. They have shims under the buckets. You have to adjust the shims to get the right clearance. If it's a hydraulic lifter head, go nuts with the swap.. They pump themselves up.

That cam you say has the G on it with VW etc definitely looks like a genuine off the sheft so to speak unit, chamfered edges on the lobes etc and the profile (at a glance) looks like a G grind.

What makes you say it's had a regrind? if it appears like the back of the lobes look different to the nose, that's because they are only loaded when they're pushing against the valve. While it's shut there's no load and thus no wear. You're probably seeing wear that makes it look like it has been reground.

[GRN_VAGN]

i was thinking the chamfered edges as you called it looked a bit odd...

How do i tell if its hydrollic or solid?

Thanks for all ya Help Preen. Might go chuck the G grind cam in F/S section. any idea on what they worth?

[Preen59]

i was thinking the chamfered edges as you called it looked a bit odd...

How do i tell if its hydrollic or solid?

Thanks for all ya Help Preen. Might go chuck the G grind cam in F/S section. any idea on what they worth?

What engine is it and what head? If you know..

There's something different between the hydraulic and solid heads but i can't remember what it is. something pretty basic.. I think they have an extra bearing journal or something?

See if you can suck one of the buckets out with the cam out, if it has shims under it, it's solid lifter.. If it has a little hole in the side of it, squeeze the centre on the under side, if it pushes in and squirts oil out the hole, it's hydraulic.

A G grind would have to be worth atleast 70 bucks i'd reckon.

[GRN_VAGN]

Engine im going to use is a 1.8L.

[Preen59]

Engine im going to use is a 1.8L.

Yeah but if you quote the prefix (Eg: KR, PL, DX, ABE etc etc) at the start of your engine number, one of the whiz bang guys like Jmac/Pete Jones/Loon/Andrew(gtimk5) will be able to tell you what head you have.

[GRN_VAGN]

No worries bud, ill put up some numbers and stuff tomorrow cheers

[c-issler]

Yeah but if you quote the prefix (Eg: KR, PL, DX, ABE etc etc) at the start of your engine number, one of the whiz bang guys like Jmac/Pete Jones/Loon/Andrew(gtimk5) will be able to tell you what head you have.

Yeah, that is a good point
I have both an FN 1600 with a four speed and weber carb and a 2E 8v 2.0 single point injection with a five speed 020 box. Will this cam be any good to me?

[gldgti]

hydro heads have a bug oil squirter thing where no 4 bearing journal is on a mech head. hydro head shave larger oil drain hole too i think.

[Peter Jones]

The shims go on TOP of the lifters. You'd see them instantly if it were a solid lifter head.

Both of those heads look like they might be hydraulic lifter versions by the lack of the extra bearing saddle.

Need images of the ports and tops of lifters to tell you much more about those heads.

I'll take some photos of stuff I've got here for comparison tomorrow.

Pete