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What do you guys recommend as an upgrade to improve on the (already) woeful disk brakes on a Mk 1.?? EBC Greenstuff and if so, where is the best place to buy them in OZ??
Children(VW) who have left home, among others:1966 VW 1300 Deluxe Bug(Harbour Blue)1966 VW 1300 Steel Sunroof Bug(Ruby Red), 1971 VW 1600 S Bug(White) 1972 VW 25th Ann. Bug(Avocado) 2000 VW Golf Mk IV GTI 3 door(Metallic Black Magic), 1985 VW Golf Mk 1 GLS Cabriolet (Metallic Gun Metal) Current: 1985 Mercedes Benz 280CE Coupe(Midnight Blue)
What do you guys recommend as an upgrade to improve on the (already) woeful disk brakes on a Mk 1.?? EBC Greenstuff and if so, where is the best place to buy them in OZ??
You would be better off spending your money on a MK2 servo and master cylinder.
What do you guys recommend as an upgrade to improve on the (already) woeful disk brakes on a Mk 1.?? EBC Greenstuff and if so, where is the best place to buy them in OZ??
Do you mean just 'upgrade' the pad
Without upgrading other brake component, it won't help, just waste your money.
What do you guys recommend as an upgrade to improve on the (already) woeful disk brakes on a Mk 1.?? EBC Greenstuff and if so, where is the best place to buy them in OZ??
Green stuff would probably make the brakes worst are they have a very low friction co-ef when cold, and don't get alot better when hot... Decent standard street pads would probably be a better option than going to the Greens. What pads are you currently running?
As has been said, you'd be better off sourcing Mk2 gear, but if you really don't want to go down that path (and you're sure your current setup is in good condition) we could look at getting some high friction pads made up...
GSL RallySport 1300 884 836
Sick of paying too much for performance brake pads? Want high performance with low rotor wear? QFM Performance Pads
Green stuff would probably make the brakes worst are they have a very low friction co-ef when cold, and don't get alot better when hot... Decent standard street pads would probably be a better option than going to the Greens. What pads are you currently running?
As has been said, you'd be better off sourcing Mk2 gear, but if you really don't want to go down that path (and you're sure your current setup is in good condition) we could look at getting some high friction pads made up...
Yes I would deffo check you have no airleaks to servo wise. Always makes sure rear shoes are well adjusted. Bleed the brakes and put new fluid in, get rid of all air leaks. Then finally a set of braided hoses on the front would give a bit better peddle feel and a firmer stop.
I would do that before sourcing expensive pads. At least do the things that cost next to nothing, system check....bleed etc.
Yes I would deffo check you have no airleaks to servo wise. Always makes sure rear shoes are well adjusted. Bleed the brakes and put new fluid in, get rid of all air leaks.
+1 to all that!!!
Then finally a set of braided hoses on the front would give a bit better peddle feel and a firmer stop.
The only time braided lines give you better pedal feel over new rubber lines is when your fluid is boiling, and that's the fluid's problem, not the brake lines. Braided lines make very little difference over good condition rubber ones, and the majority of the improvement people get when fitting them comes from either fitting new brake lines full stop (be it rubber or braided) by replacing old ones, and/or having new fluid flushed through. Not necessarily anything related to the fact that the lines are braided.
I would do that before sourcing expensive pads.
We can get a custom set of higher friction pads, in something like a LTM003 or HPX made for not much more than $100...
GSL RallySport 1300 884 836
Sick of paying too much for performance brake pads? Want high performance with low rotor wear? QFM Performance Pads
I'm running the Lucas/TRW pads on my MK1 and they seem fine to me for both street and track.
Mind you the rest of the system comprises of
GTI Ventilated Discs & Audi 80 Calipers up front
MK3 Discs at the rear
Braided lines all 'round
MK3 Booster
22mm Master Cylinder
16v Scirocco Proportioning Valves
Best thing to do with MK1 brakes is just to replace all the old stuff with new stuff. MK1 brakes were pretty good when the car was brand new. They're not bad by design, they're bad by old age.
I got a complete MK2 setup (rotors, calipers, pads etc) from GTI Imports and it was cheep and has seen racetrack time and is great. That is how I would go.
MK1 floG soon to have 16v 2L with cable change gbox - need a 16v turbo manifold
I don't agree with the description that all Mk1 brakes are woeful.
I've found that good quality pads and rotors give quite reasonable braking on a standard Mk1. My suspicion is that cheap components are used and then the design is blamed. (I've been caught with some brake places selling me cheap pads when I wanted quality - can sell them to you cheaply if you want them)
My daughter's GLS are running some ATE pads that I sourced from volkspower and the braking is fine (about$70).
I use Ferodo DS2500 on the GTI that I sourced from Melbourne Performance centre in Bayswater and the braking is excellent (about$200).
see if you can get a Mk1 GTI or later model Mk1 Cabrio Servo, caliper and disc set as the have bigger pads and ventilated discs.
Worked a treat on my first Mk1, never had brake fade!
Great to hear you're back on the road Ben.
1991 Golf GTI Manual - Tornado Red (Little Red Wagen)
1998 Golf Cabriolet Manual - Black Magic Pearl (aka Rommel's Panzer) Deceased/written off
1993 Golf Cabriolet Manual - Alpine White (aka Hitler Youth Wagen) Deceased/written off
1976 Golf LS Manual - Bronco Brown (aka Roadrunner) Deceased/worn out
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