Car won't idle, runs when key is in start position

[mikinoz]

Hi guys,

Here is one that is a little more complicated than I first thought.

Last Sunday I could not get the car to idle. I then stripped the whole carb down and rebuilt it. This had no benefit. The scenario was that while the ignition switch was on the starter the car would idle and then when you let the key go to the run position, the car would stall.

I looked at the fuse box and found one to be blown, unknown to me what it was for I replaced it and then the car ran.

All week that fuse has been intact and the car running fine - even until last night.

This morning I tried to start the car and had the same thing as last Sunday occurred. Car will start when turning the starter but then once you go to the run position, the car stalls.

Now, I am suspecting that it is electrical and think that I can isolate it to one of 3 areas and I am hoping someone can help me confirm this.

1. Fuel cut off solenoid - for some reason the fuel cut off solenoid is not staying engaged when the key is returned to the run position

2. Ignition barrel - that there is a fault in the ignition barrel and when I let the key go to the run position it is actually finding the off position.

3. The fuse box is faulty - and needs to be replaced or refurbished as I am also suffering slow wiper speed and have no rear de-mister function.

I am also thinking that it may pay to replace items like the points and condenser just as a precaution.

I am stumped and am willing to try to fix the issues, but am not exactly super at using devices such as multi-meters to find faults.

Anyone ever experienced this?

Car has a 1.5 litre from an Audi Fox with Solex 34 pict 3 carb and a normal distributor ignition with points.

[dubai gti]

Sounds like your ignition switch (at the back of the key barrel) is cactus !!

You could try disconnecting it and 'hotwire' the car. If that works, you know your switch is no good.

[mikinoz]

I have a spare I may just put that in for a trial. Thanks for your time.

[Russ59]

I have heard of this happening before on other cars, my money would be on a problem with the ignition switch, it more than likely has worn contacts. I think the slow wiper speed could also be in the wiper motor itself, maybe brushes or a dry bush, you could try getting some lube into the bush or putting in new brushes but it's probably just as cheap to buy another wiper motor for it. Everything gets wear over time and sooner or later needs repair or replacement, even in humans

[mikinoz]

Here is the starting culprit!

[Preen59]

Your barrel has dumped it's lunch i'd say. Happened to me with my Mk1 when i was on my P's.

Unplug the loom off the back and get 2 pieces of wire with un insulated spade connectors (if possible).

-Use a test light or one of the bits of wire to find power and then you'll need to find ignition and starter.
-Use one bit of wire and plug it into "power". Plug the other end into "ignition". You'll know you've found ignition when you plug the other end into it and the oil and alternator lights come on, etc.
-Find the "starter" wire and plug the other wire into that. Then when you touch the the "power" spade connector with the other end, it will throw the starter motor in and crank the engine over (hopefully starting the car! haha).


Hope that helps. This is also (obviously) how you hot wire a Mk1 or beetle or pretty much anything with the same ignition barrel. Great if you get stuck with a shagged barrel. Obviously you need the key to disengage the steering lock! haha.

[mikinoz]

Just fitted a spare (thanks XXX-18T) switch and we are back in action...

I am considering moving to a starter/kill switch instead of the key if this one fails - thanks Preeny for the how to on finding the wires! I like the low-fi test light method - just made one with an old brake light bulb!

[dubai gti]

This is also (obviously) how you hot wire a Mk1 or beetle or pretty much anything with the same ignition barrel. Great if you get stuck with a shagged barrel. Obviously you need the key to disengage the steering lock! haha.

On the subject of hotwiring, I remember a very bad new years morning down the coast about 20years ago......severe hangover and some tart from the night before broke the key in my girlfriend's Beetles door handle (girlfriend was also overseas at the time!!!) hmm.....being under the dash with a throbbing head at 9am on New Years Day, but I succeeded and hotwired the ol 'bug to get home.....

[cab93]

2. Ignition barrel - that there is a fault in the ignition barrel and when I let the key go to the run position it is actually finding the off position.

3. The fuse box is faulty - and needs to be replaced or refurbished as I am also suffering slow wiper speed and have no rear de-mister function.

I had the same problem two months ago. Faulty ignition switch. I guess the clue is slow working rear window demister! Mine works great now.

Michael

[mikinoz]

Really, I need to try the de-mister, as it was not working at all last time i tried.

The windscreen wipers are running faster if that is at all related?

I also have replaced the wire to the fuel cut off solenoid as a precaution.

[cab93]

Really, I need to try the de-mister, as it was not working at all last time i tried.

The windscreen wipers are running faster if that is at all related?

I also have replaced the wire to the fuel cut off solenoid as a precaution.

My demister had previously been slow to the point I never used it. Wipers occasionally needed to be switched off and then on to get the intermittent setting to work. All good now, wipers have stayed the same speed, Normal.

I guess the heavy wiper/demister current burns the switch out after a few decades.

Michael