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  • #16
    Ok, now I'm starting to get frustrated.

    In my last post I had replaced the tappets and thought there was some improvement. This was just wishful listening, there is/was no difference.

    Thinking maybe I had a blocked engine oil galley, I just flushed the engine, replacing the filter and oil (lower viscosity 10W).

    There is still no difference.

    I've run out of ideas

    Help..

    (P.S - according to previous owner noise is new development)
    Last edited by dub be good to me; 26-04-2009, 04:02 PM.
    sigpic
    76' 2dr Kjet

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    • #17
      Next step is an oil pressure check, although if you have no buzzers going of, that's probably ok.

      Step 2 remove the sump, 10mm bolts, a wobbly socket and 1/4 inch socket set makes getting the ones by the gearbox much easier.

      Remove the strainer off the oil pump. You probably find it full of debris, restricting flow.

      Gavin
      optimumcode@gmail.com | https://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/for...i-;-79012.html | https://www.facebook.com/TTY-Euro-107982291992533

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      • #18
        I would consider 10W a bit thin for the engine, did the PO use 10W ??

        According to the Bentley manual 10W is for use from 0 degC to below that.

        For your Melbourne climate i would be usingat least 30W monograde or preferably 20W40 or 20W50. thats from the book.

        If your driving in temperatures from 20 C up its reccomended to use 40W monograde.

        Dump the engine oil your have in it and replace it with either of the 20W multigrades above.


        The higher the number, the heavier the oil, I just hope your not damaging any bearing journals on the crank using the thin stuff.
        Lots of MK 1 Scirocco's...

        If it aint a MK 1 then it must be a donor car ??

        Cheers,
        Grant...

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        • #19
          Damn, the guy at Autobarn told me to go for a lower viscosity oil. Seeing it made no difference anyway I'll swap it for some 20W-50.

          I tried to get the sump off to clean the screen, but as previous post says its not possible with the 1/2 socket set I have.

          I just thought of something, this engine has a bracket for an oil cooler that was removed when I bought the engine. The bracket has a 'U' bend on it (where the cooler would have plugged it) to return the oil. Could this be stopping oil being pushed up to the top of the engine?

          Going to get oil see you in 30mins
          sigpic
          76' 2dr Kjet

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          • #20
            Get the 1/4 socket set.

            The tapping would go away with 10/40 until it warmed up and the oil got too thin.

            It would be ok with the engine speed increased too.

            I think it's a hardware problem not oil viscosity.

            Gavin
            optimumcode@gmail.com | https://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/for...i-;-79012.html | https://www.facebook.com/TTY-Euro-107982291992533

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            • #21
              A common source of tapping noise around the head are exhaust leaks somewhere between the head and exhaust manifold, or exhaust manifold to down pipes to a lesser extent. I would check there as well, they sound exactly like noisy tappets.

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              • #22
                Possibly the check valve in the oil filter / cooler bracket could be playing up as well. Wil try get you a pic of what to look for...
                Lots of MK 1 Scirocco's...

                If it aint a MK 1 then it must be a donor car ??

                Cheers,
                Grant...

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                • #23
                  Yesterday afternoon I swapped the oil back to 20W-50 (I only ran it with 10W for 10mins and heard no difference) and managed to get the sump off (found a 1/4 screwdriver/socket) and checked the oil screen... which was clean.

                  Re last three posts:

                  "I think it's a hardware problem not oil viscosity" (h100VW)
                  -What should I check next?
                  P.S Does anyone have an oil pressure gauge in the Eastern Suburbs I can borrow?

                  "A common source of tapping noise around the head are exhaust leaks somewhere between the head and exhaust manifold, or exhaust manifold to down pipes to a lesser extent. I would check there as well, they sound exactly like noisy tappets." (GrunMk1)
                  -I'm confident I do have an exhaust leak between head and manifold cause I can smell it, but not sure how this would cause a tapping noise?

                  "Possibly the check valve in the oil filter / cooler bracket could be playing up as well. Wil try get you a pic of what to look for..." (roccodingo)
                  -Removed the oil cooler bracket yesterday with no effect.

                  Thanks all, my Monday morning just got more interesting!
                  sigpic
                  76' 2dr Kjet

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by dub be good to me View Post
                    -I'm confident I do have an exhaust leak between head and manifold cause I can smell it, but not sure how this would cause a tapping noise?
                    On my cars it has caused an extremely tappety sound. Maybe its the sound of the valves snapping shut I'm not sure but the closer the leak is to to the head the more pronounced it is. Just recently I had one of the nuts holding on the exhaust manifold come loose, it actually came right off. Once i tightened it the tapping was gone.

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                    • #25
                      I've had an exhaust leak before. it sounds similar, but not the same as tappets imo. I have a reasonably good ear for different sounds though.


                      i like volkswagens
                      My blog: http://garagefiftythree.blogspot.com.au/

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                      • #26
                        The image shows the three types of filter / cooler housings, part number 22 is the check valve for the upper oil galleries that run to the head, you need check that it isnt constricted with gunk or some other debris. All the ones i have seen are locked into the housing by having the thread peened over, wash the whole thing in a ggo carbon dissolving solvent then blow clean.

                        That is about the only point of restriction in the galleries to the head ( as far as i know) if the lifters are still rattley, its quite likely that the lifter bores are worn beyond specification allowing the lifters to rock in the bores to much, hence the rattle...



                        Would suggest the oil pressure check taken at the oil sender fitting at the end of the head before you get much further ...
                        Lots of MK 1 Scirocco's...

                        If it aint a MK 1 then it must be a donor car ??

                        Cheers,
                        Grant...

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                        • #27
                          Dynamite, thanks mate.
                          I'll re-post this weekend when I've done the following:
                          -Check exhaust manifold for loose nuts and replace gasket if needed.
                          -Clean the check valve for upper oil galleys
                          -Checking oil pressure*
                          *Does anyone have an oil pressure gauge I can borrow?
                          sigpic
                          76' 2dr Kjet

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                          • #28
                            F#%k the weekend I sorted it last night

                            The winner is ..... Grunmk1!!

                            I got into it straight after work last night and discovered that in my haste to complete the kjet conversion in a weekend I made an elementary mistake

                            I had placed some of the exhaust gaskets on back to front (they aren't symmetrical) and mixed an odd gasket in with the set..
                            The back-to-front gaskets sealed but only just (blocking a considerable amount of exhaust), but the odd gasket was slightly thinner then the rest - hence the exhaust leak.

                            Replaced them with a full set of decent old gaskets I had lying around (getting an exhaust system next month so not to worried), bolted it down tight ... and it runs like a dream!

                            Thanks everyone for your posts, hugely appreciated

                            This weekend is now; Diesel fuel tank, hard fuel lines (if I can find any volvo ones!)

                            EDIT: Incidently, I replaced working tappets (i thought were the problem) with new ones. If anyone wants a good set of old tappets send me a PM
                            Last edited by dub be good to me; 29-04-2009, 09:53 AM.
                            sigpic
                            76' 2dr Kjet

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                            • #29
                              I'm glad you fixed the problem, I know how annoying that sound can be. Mine is sounding much better too after replacing the missing exhaust manifold nut!

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                              • #30
                                That happened to me on a 16V mk1 I built years ago. I had extractors on it and most of the studs wound out of the head when I took the std manifold off.

                                The gaskets swung out of place, as I fitted the manifold. It made a horrible noise!!!!

                                Gavin
                                optimumcode@gmail.com | https://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/for...i-;-79012.html | https://www.facebook.com/TTY-Euro-107982291992533

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