got a mk1 now have carbie problems...

[AUC-05L]

hi guys, finally i got my first golf, its a '77 GLS mk1 4 door, but it has issues which must be sorted.

the carby- owner said it was rooted, he wasnt kidding, the mixture screw was stuck in the 'fully wound in' position. so i got a new carb body and put carbie kit through it and now can't get it to run! it still chokes and splutters and i think is getting to much fuel. it wont idle properly no mater what you do with the mixture screw, or idle speed screws, you have to rev it at 2000rpm to keep it going and even then its still running like crap. when you shut it down after reving it for a while you can see (and hear) fuel collecting at the base of the carby on the butterfly valve. also i took it for a 2 minute drive and found that fuel started leaking out of the nozzel circled in red. the old carby didnt have this, what should i do with it?



also the high beams are stuck on, which is the light relay?? i'll be replacing the ignition switch as i found this is the root of all the other electrical propblems wipers/driving lights/heater fan/demister....

any help greatly appreciated....

cheers
john

[roccodingo]

carbs, dont ya just love em...

From the angle of the pic, that tube out the backside of the carb is the connection for the distributor vacuum advance,

Sounds like you have a few parts missing from the internals if its still bleeding fuel after turning off. check the bypass shut of solenoid for operation ..

As for the headlight dip problem, its more likely to be a knackered column switch...

HTH
Grant.

[Jarred]

First thing I always like to check - Vaccum leaks! Simple thing to forget about, but can solve a few issues!

Also has the timing been checked? Doesn't sound like it's your issue, but worth double checking no less. (just dont stuff it up, then you'll have more problems! ha! )

[AUC-05L]

From the angle of the pic, that tube out the backside of the carb is the connection for the distributor vacuum advance,

Sounds like you have a few parts missing from the internals if its still bleeding fuel after turning off. check the bypass shut of solenoid for operation ..

As for the headlight dip problem, its more likely to be a knackered column switch...

HTH
Grant.

the dizzy vacuume is already connected in a different place, the solenoid works when i hotwire it. what controls it normally?, i have the wire connected but dont know what triggers it. looking at the haynes manual the carby looks complete. thanks for you input.

cheers
john

[Preen59]

looking at the haynes manual....

Do yourself a favour and spend the money on a Bentley manual. Far better.

[AUC-05L]

bump.

ok what are the standards settings for this carb. ie, how far should the idle speed and mixture screws be wound in?

cheers
john

[Oneofthegreats]

the dizzy vacuume is already connected in a different place, the solenoid works when i hotwire it. what controls it normally?, i have the wire connected but dont know what triggers it. looking at the haynes manual the carby looks complete. thanks for you input.

cheers
john

The "anti-deiseling" solenoid valve is wired in with your electric choke & reverse light switch.

This mean's that when the ignition is on, the valve should be powered up!
Also the carby should have an earth wire going from the base of the carby to the inlet manifold, as the carby is rubber mounted.
If you have power at the valve, it's useless without an earth connection, & you won't have an earth through rubber!

If the valve isn't connected, it will cause symptom's like you described.

What this does is cause the idle circuit of the carby to be bypassed & make the engine try & idle through the main's, causing what sound's like a sucking noise with fuel being dropped into the top of the carby.

Also double check you have no vacuum leak's anywhere!

If it's a 77, it should most likely have two vacuum connection's on the dizzy. The Driver's side dizzy port should go to a connection on the brake booster vacuum pipe & the passenger side Dizzy port should go to a port on the back of the carby.

If you've got problem's with your high beam's coming on, I'd start at the dip relay & work from there. Could also be a faulty dip/high beam switch (indicator stalk).

One other thing often over looked on these old car's is to check if any water has gotten into the fuse box. Very common causiong all sort's all wierd & wacky problem's!

Hope this help's.

[AUC-05L]

The "anti-deiseling" solenoid valve is wired in with your electric choke & reverse light switch.

This mean's that when the ignition is on, the valve should be powered up!
Also the carby should have an earth wire going from the base of the carby to the inlet manifold, as the carby is rubber mounted.
If you have power at the valve, it's useless without an earth connection, & you won't have an earth through rubber!

If the valve isn't connected, it will cause symptom's like you described.

What this does is cause the idle circuit of the carby to be bypassed & make the engine try & idle through the main's, causing what sound's like a sucking noise with fuel being dropped into the top of the carby.

Also double check you have no vacuum leak's anywhere!

If it's a 77, it should most likely have two vacuum connection's on the dizzy. The Driver's side dizzy port should go to a connection on the brake booster vacuum pipe & the passenger side Dizzy port should go to a port on the back of the carby.

If you've got problem's with your high beam's coming on, I'd start at the dip relay & work from there. Could also be a faulty dip/high beam switch (indicator stalk).

One other thing often over looked on these old car's is to check if any water has gotten into the fuse box. Very common causiong all sort's all wierd & wacky problem's!

Hope this help's.

awsome info, put an earth on the carby amd now it runs well enough to be driven to the carb bloke, he'll tune it properly. still sorting the highbeams, which is the dip relay on the fuse box? the fusebox is very tidy, no rust to be seen. thanks for the help.

cheers
john

[Oneofthegreats]

Cool.

That's what were all here for. To learn, share, teach & help.

I can't remember off the top of my head which one is the dip relay.

Post up a pic of the complete fusebox & I'll have alook.

I'm thinking it may be the one in a holder on top of the fusebox.

Try getting someone to click the dip/highbeams on/off while you feel all the relay's. You'll be able to pick which one is clicking.

[AUC-05L]

all fixed, well sort of!!!

the carbie has been tuned, all electrics work as they should. there's still a front wheel bearing issue. and it turns out that the engine which the previous owner assured me was in excellent working order, turns out has bad valves on cyl 4! is this common? whats the best course of action here? should i get the head recoed? or live with it for now. the car runs great, just idles a bit rough......but once the revs pickup then its good.

[Golf Loon]

Probably not worth doing anything to that engine.
Mk3 1,8L lump drops straight in, or a Mk2 engine. I`ll sell you either one for $350 and it will be 2 decades newer than your current engine, run quieter and have more power.

[DVR68U]

i would just run that motor till it doesnt work anymore , i could be a a bit of carbon etc stuck on the exhaust valve might come good with a few drives. ive had this happen then save up for another motor later, when you want more power.
cheers brenton

[AUC-05L]

yeah i think i'll run it till it breaks. shame coz i just spent $200 getting the carby rebuilt and tuned. its definatly the valves coz if i pull the lead cylinder 4with the engine running nothing happens. it does have spark and no oil on the plug.

golf loon: which is the better engine mk2 or mk3? $350 is that with all the bolt ons or just the bare engine? will i be able to use my carby?

will have to call and abuse the seller as well i think......


cheers
john

[Golf Loon]

Most 30 year old engines have issues, they are old. Have you tried changing that lead??

Id do like dvr68u said if you are on a budget, golf engines are tough and it could last ages,

You can have either Mk2 or 3, there are pros and cons to each, bare motor for that price but you can use your carby and ancillaries.

Call me to discuss options if you like.

[AUC-05L]

cool, leads infact everything in the whole ignition system is new! i dont mind the rough idle its that it keeps stalling when comming down from high revs....3k+. im going to see the carby bloke again and see what he thinks, as i still reckon the stalling could be a carby problem as well....ow the joys of owning a mk1....