How do I look after my Diesel?

[Ryeman]

Shell state a Cetane Index of 49 for their 'Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel' fuel.
there is no mention of 'CN' - am I missing the obvious as IT is <51?!

[Ryeman]

Is there a know diesel fuel retailer that doesn't meet VW min specs?

[Amalgam]

From Wikipedia

"Cetane index calculations can not account for cetane improver additives and therefore do not measure total cetane number for additized diesel fuels. Diesel engine operation is primarily related to the actual cetane number and the cetane index is simply an estimation of the base (unadditized) cetane number."

CN and CI are not the same


Also from VeryOne | General information


Q: What type of measurement is the most appropriate for the Cetane Number?

A: Amongst the different ways to determine the Cetane Number, the Cetane Engine (ASTM D 613) is usually the standard.

Q: What is the difference between Cetane Index and Cetane Number?

A: There are 2 ways to determine the Cetane Number of a Diesel Fuel.

The first one, called Calculated Cetane Index, is a theoretical determination. It uses a calculation based on the density and the distillation range of a crude diesel fuel. This estimation is only made for fuels without any additive in it. The specification of the Cetane Index in Europe is minimum 46.

The second one, called Measured Cetane Number, uses a normalized laboratory test. The Cetane Number is determined by comparing the behavior of the tested fuel to 2 reference mixtures with known Cetane Number. In this case, all fuels, with or without additives, can be tested. The specification in Europe is minimum 51.

Cetane Improver increases the Measured Cetane Number, but has no impact on the Calculated Cetane Index.

Apparatus used for Cetane Number measurement: CFR (Cooperative Fuel Research engine, ASTM D916), IQT (Ignition Quality Tester, D6890), DCN (Derived Cetane Number, ASTM D7170) or CID 510 (Cetane Ignition Delay, ASTM D766.

Q: Why does the Cetane Index Norm differ from country to country?

A: Each country or state shall define its own diesel specification. For environmental reasons, in year 2000, Europe fixed the Cetane Index at 46, and the Cetane Number at 51, at the same time as low sulfur diesel regulation. Step by step, most of the states around the world would fix the same level of Cetane Number.

In cold weather countries, the Cetane Number can be lower during the winter season. This is explained by the difference in climate, and the addition of kerosen into the diesel. For example: the arctic diesel is at 47-49 in Europe.

[Ryeman]

So there is no specific figure that shows that one fuel is measurably better then any other?

[blameturner]

So there is no specific figure that shows that one fuel is measurably better then any other?

Apparently it's personal preference but I've heard many good reports about BP Ultimate Diesel.

[Greg Roles]

Yeah, I'm over two stroke oil discussions too. Just use it or don't. Next.

A diesel is no different, but fuel is probably the biggest thing nowadays. I would suggest using BP or Caltex, as they add cleaners to help keep injectors in top shape, but I'm sure Shell is fine too. I avoid all the no name and cheap diesels utterly.

Supercheap has Moreys Diesel Smoke killer, which is probably just two stroke oil, but it's all the additive you'd ever need.

A catch can is a great idea, but is a DIY and does take a bit of tinkering ability.

A tune on a TDI is a massive jump, any of the decent brands will give you a fun result. If you have warranty and its a late model, you have to consider the fact the dealer automatically detects OBD flash tunes and keeps that on file. There are other methods around that.

Drive it normally, and try and get a feel for when it may be regenning the DPF, usually a raised idle is the only indication in the latest cars. At that time a 10km long drive is smart, but the idea of doing a random highway drive will do little, unless you only do short inner city trips.

Welcome to the joy of oily hands at the diesel pump, and just make sure you never zone out and put petrol in it. Much badness.

[blameturner]

Yeah, I'm over two stroke oil discussions too. Just use it or don't. Next.

A diesel is no different, but fuel is probably the biggest thing nowadays. I would suggest using BP or Caltex, as they add cleaners to help keep injectors in top shape, but I'm sure Shell is fine too. I avoid all the no name and cheap diesels utterly.

Supercheap has Moreys Diesel Smoke killer, which is probably just two stroke oil, but it's all the additive you'd ever need.

A catch can is a great idea, but is a DIY and does take a bit of tinkering ability.

A tune on a TDI is a massive jump, any of the decent brands will give you a fun result. If you have warranty and its a late model, you have to consider the fact the dealer automatically detects OBD flash tunes and keeps that on file. There are other methods around that.

Drive it normally, and try and get a feel for when it may be regenning the DPF, usually a raised idle is the only indication in the latest cars. At that time a 10km long drive is smart, but the idea of doing a random highway drive will do little, unless you only do short inner city trips.

Welcome to the joy of oily hands at the diesel pump, and just make sure you never zone out and put petrol in it. Much badness.

Haha I assume you've put petrol in it once?

[Greg Roles]

No, but people do. It's a terminal situation for your Pistons.

[benough]

As GolfVII said. Love it first, then cane it.

My DPF sent the car into limp mode in the first 1200km. The service manager in no uncertain terms told me to thrash it and have done so ever since.

I'm almost up to 210,000km in 7 years, no DPF failure and the clutch is only wearing out now. Just gun it when you can and try not to drive it off boost, which in DSG is almost impossible, and it will be apples.

I've only ever used BP in mine and serviced on the interval. Intakes do SFA but make you sound like Darth Vader breathing through a megaphone.

[blameturner]

As GolfVII said. Love it first, then cane it.

My DPF sent the car into limp mode in the first 1200km. The service manager in no uncertain terms told me to thrash it and have done so ever since.

I'm almost up to 210,000km in 7 years, no DPF failure and the clutch is only wearing out now. Just gun it when you can and try not to drive it off boost, which in DSG is almost impossible, and it will be apples.

I've only ever used BP in mine and serviced on the interval. Intakes do SFA but make you sound like Darth Vader breathing through a megaphone.

I have no issues with caning it

[Greg Roles]

As GolfVII said. Love it first, then cane it.

My DPF sent the car into limp mode in the first 1200km. The service manager in no uncertain terms told me to thrash it and have done so ever since.

I'm almost up to 210,000km in 7 years, no DPF failure and the clutch is only wearing out now. Just gun it when you can and try not to drive it off boost, which in DSG is almost impossible, and it will be apples.

I've only ever used BP in mine and serviced on the interval. Intakes do SFA but make you sound like Darth Vader breathing through a megaphone.

Absolutely phenomenal DPF lifespan, you are sure doing something right!

[Ryeman]

Absolutely phenomenal DPF lifespan, you are sure doing something right!

You'd think EGR contamination issues would have popped up.

[Greg Roles]

Anything soot such as EGR will regenerate. Oil ash is the killer, so Ben obviously has limited oil entering his engine via blow by, PCV, turbo seals etc. He may also be the luckiest dude on the planet!

[Ryeman]

210,00km....pfttt
but that's the modern diesel for you!

[Ryeman]

Do the modern petrol engines have EGR issues to the same extent?