Who is using 2 stroke in their Diesel?

[duderduderini]

Hey
I have read the relevant posts here and at freel2.com and was wondering if anybody is actually doing this and if so what 2so are they using?
Nick

[VR6man]

I haven't read any of freel2.com, but diesels in cars are normally 4 stroke engines.

[duderduderini]

Hey
I am specifically refering to the notion that 200mL of low or no ash non or partial synthetic mixed into a tank of diesel will help the lubricity of the diesel given that the advent of low sulphur diesel fuels have largely removed the lubricity of diesel and gives the high pressure diesel pump some much needed lubrication. There is also the notion that it enhances the combustion process and increases power and fuel consumption.
There a gazillion posts on the topic and it bears some merit but i was wondering if anyone has actually used it and if so what have they found.
Nick

[Gigitt]

Runs great in the Mk3 TDI and the slug Land Rover Defenser 130 300TDI

Use Castrol Activ 2T.
Get it at Super Cheap when thery have 20% store wide.

Otherwise get it from a fuel depot... depot at the farm sells 4lt jug for like $36.00 Still cheaper than 20% off at Supercheap.

The LR Defender really needs it... car runs like a sewing machine with it in, reduces the mechanical noise from the engine and really makes it easier to drive - less of a slug. On the 600km trip to farm it sits so much better at 110. Doesn't improve the fuel economy in it cause your driving it faster than normally would (especially up hills less gear shifts) but there is less effort to get up to speed and keep it there.

I run the standard 200:1
which basically is 50ml per 10 Litre Diesel.

[duderduderini]

Hey.
Does either of the vehicles have a dpf?
Thanks for the input. I just cant see how it would harm anything. Nothing like a bit of upper cylinder lubrication
Nick

[kaanage]

The only thing it can hurt is the DPF and the jury is out on that one.

I know of 4 here running it in their 1.9 PD TDi's inc me. At least one person claims a small but consistent improvement in mileage and another claims it makes their engine run much smoother. In mine, it seems to make no difference but I figure it can only help with wear (mine is by far the newest of the group). Smoke hasn't changed at all in mine.

I've conversed with DiscoGeorge and Yamaha-fan over on the Freelander site and I'm convinced that their experiences hold weight.

I use a TC-3 spec oil which is very low ash (as are the JASO spec FD onwards oils).

With a non-DPF engine, JASO C would be OK but for cars with a DPF, I'd use TC-3 or JASO FD spec oils. Castrol Activ-2T is JASO FC

[Preen59]

The DPF can be damaged if you use synthetic. Stick to castor oils and you'll be fine. Castrol R30, Shell Racing M, etc.

I don't have a DPF, so I can go nuts.

I've been using Yamalube. It's a synthetic designed for snow mobiles etc, so it has a high detergent quality and actually can strip the carbon buildup in your engine. We tried this in our 2 stroke racing engines and it proved to produce more HP initially, but when used continuously, stripped the carbon from the piston/combustion chamber and caused more blowby and heat transfer (This part is only relevant to the kart racing stuff).. So I ended up with a box of the stuff with no use for it.


I've used it in the Caddy PD 1.9 TDI and in my Mk1 Golf GLD 1.5 NA. On both accounts I've seen increased fuel economy (around 5%). The GLD starts easier, the Caddy always starts easy.. Both are quieter at first start-up and blow less smoke.


There's been a few threads previously about this over the last few years.. One got very detailed. Not sure where that went?

[duderduderini]

I am thinking of this Penrite oil.
MARINE OUTBOARD TWO STROKE OIL - Penrite Oil
Its zero ash and adheres to TC W3 spec.
I use elf racing oil for my rotax but have used shell m in the kart but found it leaves a varnish that can block things up. I did find however that my RX7 used to go real well with my leftover kart fuel that had shell m in it.
If i use the no ash penrite and only use 200ML pet tank.. I just cant see how it will stuff things up honest. If you consider the egr valve and how it spews soot straight into the inlet tract (provent on soon) how can a little bit of oil stuff things.. given that diesel is well um oil...

[Preen59]

I am thinking of this Penrite oil.
MARINE OUTBOARD TWO STROKE OIL - Penrite Oil
Its zero ash and adheres to TC W3 spec.
I use elf racing oil for my rotax but have used shell m in the kart but found it leaves a varnish that can block things up. I did find however that my RX7 used to go real well with my leftover kart fuel that had shell m in it.
If i use the no ash penrite and only use 200ML pet tank.. I just cant see how it will stuff things up honest. If you consider the egr valve and how it spews soot straight into the inlet tract (provent on soon) how can a little bit of oil stuff things.. given that diesel is well um oil...

Water cooleds are a whole different kettle of fish. We used synthetic in the ARC.. But not to get off topic. Haha.

Any zero ash 2stroke oil should be fine from all accounts from what I've read.

Direct injection negates any upper cylinder lubricant benefits, but it would certainly help the pumps.



I say give it a go. You can also try ATF on older engines. A diesel will run on straight ATF. I use it to prime the injector pump (If I've taken it off, etc) when I don't have any diesel around. Adding some ATF to your fuel can apparently help with lubrication and also clean the varnish from the injector pump etc.

[Transporter]

I am thinking of this Penrite oil.
MARINE OUTBOARD TWO STROKE OIL - Penrite Oil
Its zero ash and adheres to TC W3 spec.
I use elf racing oil for my rotax but have used shell m in the kart but found it leaves a varnish that can block things up. I did find however that my RX7 used to go real well with my leftover kart fuel that had shell m in it.
If i use the no ash penrite and only use 200ML pet tank.. I just cant see how it will stuff things up honest. If you consider the egr valve and how it spews soot straight into the inlet tract (provent on soon) how can a little bit of oil stuff things.. given that diesel is well um oil...

I wouldn't use that if every forum in the world swear by it. Especially if my engine runs well and the fuel additives do their job.

Aren't there any purpose made additives for the diesel fuel?

[Gigitt]

Hey.
Does either of the vehicles have a dpf?
Thanks for the input. I just cant see how it would harm anything. Nothing like a bit of upper cylinder lubrication
Nick

the 1996 Mk3 TDI and the 1996 LR Defender 130 300TDI both do not have DPF.

[kaanage]

The DPF can be damaged if you use synthetic. Stick to castor oils and you'll be fine. Castrol R30, Shell Racing M, etc.

I would have thought that the bean oil would be more likely to leave deposits in the DPF - the synthetics are forumulated to burn very clean (as you found with the karts) largely to prevent sticking exhaust valves on performance 2-stroke engines.

I am thinking of this Penrite oil.
MARINE OUTBOARD TWO STROKE OIL - Penrite Oil
Its zero ash and adheres to TC W3 spec.
I use elf racing oil for my rotax but have used shell m in the kart but found it leaves a varnish that can block things up. I did find however that my RX7 used to go real well with my leftover kart fuel that had shell m in it.
If i use the no ash penrite and only use 200ML pet tank.. I just cant see how it will stuff things up honest. If you consider the egr valve and how it spews soot straight into the inlet tract (provent on soon) how can a little bit of oil stuff things.. given that diesel is well um oil...

Yep, that's the Penrite equivalent to the stuff I'm using.

As you will have noted from the previous threads here + the big one on the Freelander 2 site, there are proponents and opponents to this practice and both sides can get pretty strident about the matter.

I will add that I spent literally months looking into this and could not find a single case where it was documented that using low ash 2-stroke oil in a diesel caused any damage. One of the forum members here who does use it told me that it is the ONLY additive that he has used that has made any noticable improvement in the behaviour of his diesel and the Freelander thread contains a couple of cases that are similar. Of course there are others that state it made no noticable difference (I'm one but I still use it as a form of preventative maintenance).

[Preen59]

I would have thought that the bean oil would be more likely to leave deposits in the DPF - the synthetics are forumulated to burn very clean (as you found with the karts) largely to prevent sticking exhaust valves on performance 2-stroke engines.

Yes, that is true. But it is due to the lower combustion temperature. At a higher temperature, the castor burns cleanly.

When I did the research, what I could gather is that the synthetics had a higher ash content and therefore "may" cause the DPF to clog faster. Greg Roles has done some research into this- Probably more than me.

Anyways, it's up to the individual whether they use an "untested" additive or not. Personally, I haven't seen any harm.

[duderduderini]

If you look at it in persepctive I add 25mL per litre in my rotax kart engine.. If you race a yamaha its 40ml per litre as the yammie is air cooled vs water cooled for the Rotax.
How much damage could 200ml in 50 litres of diesel do? or put another way the ratio in diesel is 4ml a litre. Shell m whilst being a good oil was prone to clogging up the dellorto carby on the rotax.. I noticed also more deposits than with the elf oil I currently run in the rotax so it burns hot but not as hot as a yamaha air cooled engine..
Anyways I will try the no ash oil and see for myself.

[Preen59]

Yes, the only way to tell is to try it yourself.



I should have clarified.. Referring to a higher combustion temp, I meant 2stroke VS diesel.

We run 60ml to a litre in the J and the S.. Reason? Top secret. Haha.