Reconditioning diesel engines

[peter_j_g]

Hi,

My car won't start! I've methodically checked fuel filters, fuel supply to the injectors, glow plugs etc etc, and even called the NRMA as a last resort... who suggested I get the car towed to a VW dealer.

My conclusion is that there isn't quite enough compression combined with the now colder weather. I've had occasional problems with blowby (see previous posts), but otherwise the car has been running well, starting first go and has used 1 litre oil in 5,000km, which is normal.

Can anyone suggest where I can get either a reconditioned engine or my own engine reconditioned? I've found suppliers both in the UK and the US but shipping and returning makes this uneconomic.

I'd do the work myself but I'm pushed for time with work & house renovations. According to my workshop manual the rings can be replaced with the motor in the car - anyone tried this? I've rebuilt engines before so would think a rebore & oversize pistons would be the best, although this means taking the whole motor out!

My other option would be to sell as is and treat myself to a new TDI...

[imported_brackie]

Take the Tdi option if you can afford it

Wouldn't we all love a new Tdi??? In lieu of that, a quick ring job would be cheaper. Yes, it can be done with the engine in the car and it's cheap enough if you source the parts in the US. But first... Check everything else, You say your glow plugs are OK. Are you sure? What about the relay? Eliminate all else before spending time and money on a re-build. If you suspect low compression do yourself and your bank account a favour and have a compression test done. Compression has to be really low before it affects starting. Even with considerable blow by to the point of runaway, it should still start. I would strongly suspect glow plugs to be the culprit. Get back to me if you want a step-by-step checklist.

[peter_j_g]

Hi,

Thanks for your comments! I've checked the glow plugs by pulling them out individually and wiring them to the battery, they all get hot! When in place you can see the voltage drop when they are on, and hear the relay click out and the voltage come up again after 1 minute or so.

You're right the best thing is to check the compression, I don't have a compression tester rated high enough for a diesel, so getting one of these should be the next step. I've also checked the shut-off solenoid, and then loosened each fuel pipe at the injectors and you can see fuel weeping out as it's cranked over. I've also got a hand primer fitted, and when pumping this fuel is comming out of the return pipe from the pump.

I'd be interested in your check list - maybe there is something that I've missed.

Thanks again!

[DOHCDAVE]

Don't buy a compression tester, Call a local mech and ask if you can get your motor tested couldn't imagine it would be much as it is an easy test.
As for the rest well i would make sure the plugs are working insitue as testing them alone will only eleminate the fact that the plugs heat up.
And noticing a voltage change is good but are they working while there in place, is there diesel getting to the filter, as i had put injector cleaner through mine a few years ago and it was running fine until Mon came to go to work car had been siting for the weekend got half way to work and it slowly came to a stop. Took few hrs to find but had no fuel after the filter as it was fully blocked with the crap in the tank that had come adrift over the weekend while sitting there with injector cleaner in the tank.
Don't panic to much as it doesn't sound terminal, just recheck and recheck keep us posted as i would hope some advice was useful in this forum.
Which i gotta say has made me right at home, now i can talk to you guys about problems 's and alsorts of stuff.
Good luck with your beast, remember mine going forever, use to think the fuel gauge was broken all the time it would never run out .
GO THE DIESELS!!
________________________
:twisted: MK1 THE BEST :twisted:

:arrow: 16V EVEN BETTER :arrow:

[DOHCDAVE]

Try checking the relays as it shouldn't take a minute or so to heat up, 20 -30 sec or so should they should be cooking. SO look into that mayb.
Cheers
Dave






_____________________________
:twisted: MK1 the best :twisted:

[imported_brackie]

Slow glow

Try checking the relays as it shouldn't take a minute or so to heat up, 20 -30 sec or so should they should be cooking.

You'll have the slow glow system. I believe all Golfs delivered in Oz had it. I installed the quick glow plugs and relay in mine and what a difference! I got them brand new from ebay US and they cost me $70 complete including postage.
Don't be fooled into thinking that because they get hot everthing's OK. A duff relay can cause all kinds of probems, as can a stuffed cylinder head temp. sensor. Supply 12v direct to the glow plug bus from the battery (hook a heavy gauge wire over the fuse on the bulkhead) and give her 20sec. If she starts then you know it's either the sensor or the relay. (Be sure to unhook the wire as soon as she starts of you'll burn out the plugs!)To eliminate the sensor, ground the spade connector that goes on it. This will tell the relay that the head is stone cold and again give her 20 seconds. Whatever you do don't buy parts from a VW dealer! Get them from the US or UK. I can suggest sources but most of mine come from ebay.

You'll find this page really useful, but if it doesn't work for you I have access to official VW training manual. PM me if you need it.

http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/GlowPlugs.shtml

[syncro]

Re: Slow glow

Whatever you do don't buy parts from a VW dealer!

Why

[GoLfMan]

Re: Slow glow

Why [/quote] cos they'll charge an arm and a leg for em

[syncro]

You don't know unless you ask.

Check out Oil Filters or G11 coolant.

[imported_brackie]

You don't know unless you ask.

Check out Oil Filters or G11 coolant.

Hey, you must know some that I don't! Firstly, they only sell genuine. Not that it's always bad, 'cos the manufacturers are often the same as those who supply aftermarket. The BIG difference is the mark-up. They get so used to supplying parts to "captive" buyers (those who know little about how cars work and just put it in the workshop and say,"Fix it!") that they apply the same pricing over the counter. If you were to build a Golf out of their parts bin it would end up costing a million dollars. The reason I buy from overseas is that in other countries the parts sellers have a much higher turnover and can discount their price. (High turnover/small profit.) It doesn't sound very Australian as I know I should be supporting local businesses, but I do if they aren't too greedy.

[imported_brackie]

It doesn't sound very Australian as I know I should be supporting local businesses, but I do if they aren't too greedy.

Oh...Now I'm feeling guilty! I do in fact buy local. John Hall in Devonport has sourced heaps of stuff for me. He's a workshop and not a VW dealer but he's a great guy and looks after VW enthusiasts.

[syncro]

I bought a Volkswagen so I like to keep it a Volkswagen.(within reason) I've seen many stuffed Golf engines caused by non genuine parts.

[GoLfMan]

fair call but if you know that the part works and doesnt do damage to the engine why not?? some aftermarket parts are better quality and are better for the engine than some genuine parts

[syncro]

IF you know that they are better then OK. They're usually not though. Things like oil filters are a false economy and the price is nearly the same between genuine and OEM.

[GoLfMan]

IF you know that they are better then OK. They're usually not though. Things like oil filters are a false economy and the price is nearly the same between genuine and OEM.

oil filters i agree with buying genuine.. or a high quality aftermarket... but aftermarket is becoming risky nowadays with all this chinese **** flooding the market