Death to the diesel

[gldgti]

adjusting the pump timing...

i might have said this before... infact i know i have, but you can time the pump dynamically...

with the bolts loosened off, engine at an idle with cold start lever pulled out, advance the pump just until the revs begin to drop off. then, retard the pump back between 1-1.5mm at the timing mark. tighten the bolts etc.... your done.

works for me!

cheers

aydan

[hiho]

Coolant pressure gauge

mmciau, this is what i had in mind as an early warning system, has it proved effective?

Thanks

[hiho]

Over the weekend i straightened and refitted steel bumpers to my GLD and it looks great!! I also adjusted the tumblers in the driver side door lock so one key now opens all doors and starts the car. This is very easy to do, if anyone is interested i can put together a how to guide.
I also fitted an oil pressure gauge and plan to install either a CHT gauge or water pressure gauge. The heads (three of them) are at the workshop. None of them have decent guides, so a new set is going in. Once this motor is finished, i might as well have stuck a TD motor in it!!
Over the next week im fitting a set of dead straight doors and guards. Then all it needs is a coat of paint and it will be be a million bucks (what ive spent, not what its worth)
Thanks all for your interest and assistance

[hiho]

Hi Ayden,
I suspect that your method is sound, next time im timing a pump and have a gauge handy ill do it by hand/ear then measure the timing with the gauge just to calibrate my hand/ear. Also, are you running yours more advanced because you are running biodiesel? Also, what is the part No. of your gearbox?
Cheers
Matt

[mmciau]

mmciau, this is what i had in mind as an early warning system, has it proved effective?

Thanks

yes it was/is effective, especially if the gauge is a 'full circle" and say 0-20lb/sqin range. As I said, it will immediately show if there is a hole in the water system because there will be NIL pressure able to be generated.

this is important if you have a leak of coolant overnight. The temperature gauge sensor doesn't work unless it is immersed in coolant. If it was a "steam pocket, it wouldn't register but you're engine would be severley compromised.

mike

[gldgti]

i'm running it advanced for extra power....

not sure about the p/n on the box, next i'm under it i'll write it down.

[hiho]

&$#&**^#

Hi all, i just arrive home from my first trip in my VW with its new head,

IN A BUS!

Yup, thats right, shes stranded in Melbourne with thick grey glug in the radiator

I can only speculate on the cause at this stage, that either i somehow didnt put the head on correctly and oil was leaking into the water, or the last trip when the motor got scorchingly hot, the block cracked between the oil gallery and the water jacket (oil pressure running at 6.5kPa at 100kms/hr and 2.5kPa at idle when warm).

If its the former then i could probably fix it (at wits end though) however, if the oil gallery was leaking at the head gasket, wouldnt it leak down the side of the block too?

If its the latter, I will be selling the car as is and all the parts i have (car in melb, parts in Hamilton, west Vic)

[brackie]

Common problem

Yup, thats right, shes stranded in Melbourne with thick grey glug in the radiator

This is a common fault with early diesels. The head gasket fails around the oil gallery and oil is injected into the coolant. It turns into a gluggy mess and blocks the radiator with predictable results. Sorry to hear about your bad luck (again).

If its the former then i could probably fix it (at wits end though) however, if the oil gallery was leaking at the head gasket, wouldnt it leak down the side of the block too?

There's usually a small amount of oil on the outer of the block but not rivers of it. I doubt very much if the head is cracked in this vicinity. I'd put my money on the gasket. Unfortuately if the motor's been overheated the head may be warped and then it's a throw away job.

If its the latter, I will be selling the car as is and all the parts i have (car in melb, parts in Hamilton, west Vic)

With your recent experience you could probably gave the head off in an hour and then you could check on the warpage and examine the gasket. My money's still on the gasket (I've replaced several that have failed in this area.) Trouble is, she's a long way away!
[/quote]

[hiho]

Thanks Brackie for your soothing words of wisdom. Tonight Im looking at a holden nova for $1100 with RWC for the wife.

The head that is on the car now is not the one that i cooked last time, it was too badly warped. This head received new exhaust valves and a set of guides. I will yank the head off and inspect it for warp. Is there any way to tell if the block is cracked?
Matt

[brackie]

Cracked block

No... It's difficult to test with the head off the motor. You could fill it to the top of the water jacket and see if the level goes down, look for water on the outside, but really it would probably only leak under pressure. The head is the weakest link in the motor so it's much more likely that it would crack/fail than the block would crack.