1996 Tdi knocking noises

[sparkie]

Hi guys, just thought someone would be able to help. MY 1996 Tdi knocks a lot especially when going over bumps and also when leaving from a stand-still and hardish braking. My mechanic said 'it's probably the front struts' so they have been replaced but the noise is no better. Now he is saying he has been over the car with a pry bar and has diagnosed the rear engine mounting. Bearing in mind that he was wrong first time, I am a bit concerned that I spend more money in the wrong place. He warned me a new mounting might be expensive, so I am also interested in suggestions as to where to buy a new mounting. Thanks guys and gals

[peedman]

It could be a motor mount esp since u said it occurs on take off. Dont forget the diesel motor has a lot more vibrations and the engine mounts are probably at the age where they need to be replaced. If u grab the motor and give it a bit of shake, u might be able to see if the mounts are worn. Not a perfect test since they are made of rubber and are designed to flex a bit but it should give u some idea. The 'swiss cheese' mounts are notorious for disintergrating due to their design, its basically rubber in a cylindrical shape with many holes in it and over time the rubber collapses and gets smaller and smaller due to the holes.

For new mounts try germanautoparts.com or autohausaz.com, its prob also not worth considering poly mounts but rather just stick to the stock ones.

[sparkie]

Thanks for that Pedro, what series engine have I got? Its a bit bewildering, are the mounts the same as a petrol one? Is it a good idea to replace all the mounts while I'm in there taking the top of my knuckles off?

[Jmac]

Im happy to have a squizz if your stuck mate, even a drive for a listen to set you straight
cheers
Jmac
ps pm sent

[gldgti]

hey mate -

theres quite a few things that could be wrong making a "knockin" noise, but as far as the engine mounts go - yes, they are the same style and fitment as the petrol (4cyl) ones. and, if you wish to replace them all, i recommend going to the BFI stage 0.5 poly kit from Dubaddictions.com - not too hard for the diesel and will outlast OEM ones hands down (i have them).

further - i would first look at your front strut mounts - they are often worn to the point that they will knock and also make the steering a little vague. Tooley imports in sydney have them for about $39 each.

also check your lower control arm bushings and swaybar links - all good sources of parts that wear out and cause movement/knocking.

[sparkie]

How can I tell if it is the strut mountings, shouldn't the mechanic have been able to tell? Any way of telling what the condition of the engine mounts is like? If I jack the car up, can I tell what wear there is in the front suspension by rocking the front wheels around? Used to work on my old Midget!!
Thanks for the ideas so far

[h100vw]

Have Jmac look at it. I have seen some duff gearbox mounts before and the fronts used to go on MK2s pretty regularly.

I am thinking busted rear wishbone mount/s or possibly the suspension top mounts

Gavin

[Jmac]

Have Jmac look at it. I have seen some duff gearbox mounts before and the fronts used to go on MK2s pretty regularly.

I am thinking busted rear wishbone mount/s or possibly the suspension top mounts

Gavin

Yep could be a mixture of them all, gearbox mounts are notorious. I will say i have done a kit today from Tim at Dub Addiction ( BFI kit) great kit and will have all your engine mounts covered. Strut mounts are bad for popping, control arm bushes bad and cause the subframe to clunk, Sway bar hitting the chassis as it has moved over slightly, the list goes on.
Cheers
Jmac

[Soup Nazi]

Sparkie
I also have a 1996 Tdi. I have had two of these cars and replaced the engine mounts on my first. DO NOT USE PETROL ENGINE MOUNTS! They are simply not up to the task. I think it is the right rear mount that has a hydraulic damper in it. Take the part numbers off the ones you have in your car. Anyway if you replace them thay do make a big difference. You should also check your strut mounts (Top) they are prone to fail also. I have been purchasing a lot of my bits out of the USA with huge savings. for instance I recently needed to replace my harmonic vibration damper to get rid of the winter chirp, VW OZ price $650.00, Autohausaz price $125.00 AU including freight to my door! It was also the genuine part.

There are many other suppliers as well. Let me know how you go with the engine mounts.

[sparkie]

..if you ask too many doctors..

Jmac has had a look at the car, which my mechanic had diagnosed as an engine mount problem. Jmac reckoned if the hydraulic mounts were stuffed there would be signs of hydraulic oil, and they are dry. He had it up on a jack and showed me some play in the steering rack and tie-rod (?) end. But today the car went back to my local mechanic and he had another look, only to find one of the engine mounts had a loose bolt, he's tightened it up, and I have yet to drive it more than a kilometre, but so far it seems to have done the job. Both mechanics agree that the Mk3 has a noisy,clunky front suspension. Thanks for the ideas.

[sparkie]

Well it's been a few days now and the knocking noise has gone, so it was definitely a loose engine mount. Still this has shown up wear in the steering rack and mounts, and the diff. So still a bit to sort out.

[Jmac]

The mount that would have been wet would be the gearbox mount if it were "duff" . In your case it was in fact dry. But seems there wasnt any 'duff"mounts as it was the bolt that holds it on was loose. There is 3 mounts in there, which one had the loose bolt??
Jmac

[sparkie]

Not sure which mount it was because now you mention that there are three I'm confused, I thought there were two, but the mechanic was pointing at the back of the engine at the top, and we could hardly see it, only feel it! Does that help/ he showed me that there is some play in the diff, but nothing you would not expect of a 13 year old car with 200,000 kms on the clock