Diesel Jetta (vege oil)

[Golf Loon]

You cant fanny around with the cheapo bargains. You need to be there quik as with the $$$. Get the money then ring him up and hassle him.

[Edison]

Richard has, he might give me the engines for free, but wants to hold onto the diesel car for a while while his other is not working....
(sigh)
I degreased the white car of hope, I don't see how the tools I have seen on here can be used to hold the cogs steady while the head is removed, so I think I'll make some clamps at tafe to my own design as i can't understand the other designs...

[Golf Loon]

Make up some tools, then I`ll come and pull the head off with you.
I thik you need a pin for the pump and a flat bar with a notch out of it???
I`m not a diesle head, so dunno really.

[Edison]

Hi Matt!
Cool! I am just going to look at it and make a bunch of clamps at tafe to keep both cogs steady, and also something so I can clamp the timing belt itself to stop it coming off the driveshaft at the bottom, as I can't see how to remove the cover, and don't need to I expect... so i'll make stuff at tafe tomorrow.

[Golf Loon]

We`ll have to take the cover off. I know how to do that.

[smithy010]

The locking pin is the easiest way to lock the injector pump. It goes through one of the big holes in the pump sproket, which, when at tdc lines up with a hole in the IP bracket...
It's by far the best way, no chance of the clamps falling off or anything.
I made one from a piece of 20mm mild steel stock, which i turned down to the right size (about 15mm), knurled a little end on it, and a hole for a 75x6mm bolt through the middle.

As far as i know the standard cam lock is a piece of steel just the right thickness so it jams in between the head and the end of the camshaft. Also probably the best way to do it.

[brackie]

Locking devices

I ground my cam lock to size from a piece of 4mm mild steel. It's slghtly too thick (purposely) so I can tap it into the end of the cam.

My ip pin lock has gone missing but Smithy's sizes seem right. Just have a scrounge around in the shed and I'm sure you'll find bits and pieces that'll do the job. Really, it's not rocket science as long as you find TDC and lock everything. BUT make sure you don't get it a tooth out when refitting the belt. Just one tooth makes a huge difference with a diesel, and if you're fitting a new belt you really should re-time the ip.

[peter_j_g]

My cam lock is a standard door hinge. Steel is 4mm thick, and fits perfectly. Check out any spare hinges you have lying around!

Rgds, Peter

[Edison]

I made 4 small items at tafe and have put them in place, they are irregular shaped metal peices about 20c size, and about twice the thickness, with a hole through the middle and a nut welded on, a 10mm bolt goes through each one, and they sit behind the big holes in the timing gears, when the bolts are tightened they should hold things steady. I did them finger tight plus one turn, I didn't want to go further because I fear breaking the gear which is easy to do (I broke one in a swift with a screwdriver once)...
I need to drain the radiator next before matt arrives, as I can do that no problems....
If I have time I'll reset the gears to tdc... I think I should be able to...

[smithy010]

The only problem with your lockin method edison, is that for the one that locks the camshaft sprocket, you're only locking the sprocket and not the shaft itself.... when you refit the timing belt, it's a good idea to loosen the taperlock on the timing belt pulley and then tighten everything up, so when the taperlock is loose, the camshaft is not actually locked at all.... good idea to lock the camshaft in the way that the rest of the blokes have suggested.

Everyone else, correct me if i'm wrong..

[Golf Loon]

Yeah we need a camshaft locking device edison.

[brackie]

Tightening

when you refit the timing belt, it's a good idea to loosen the taperlock on the timing belt pulley and then tighten everything up

If you loosen the sprocket, retighten it with a torwue wrench but give it an extra 10 to 15%. Because there's no woodruff key the sprocket can slip and if it does you wreck your motor. Believe me (I'm speaking from experience...It happened to me when I rebuilt my son's Audi diesel.)

[Edison]

The only problem with your lockin method edison, is that for the one that locks the camshaft sprocket, you're only locking the sprocket and not the shaft itself.... when you refit the timing belt, it's a good idea to loosen the taperlock on the timing belt pulley and then tighten everything up, so when the taperlock is loose, the camshaft is not actually locked at all.... good idea to lock the camshaft in the way that the rest of the blokes have suggested.

Youve lost me somewhat, I want to lock both the gear at the top, (on the cam) and the pump gear, and leave the engine in gear (pistons locked). If the topmost gear and the pumpgear all stay the same, and the number of teeth between each on the belt stay the same, how can the camshaft move? I can't understand what you are saying about the camshaft not being locked when the cam(topmost) gear is locked. I'm not doing anything with the small tensioner, I don't see that that one matters, unless I get a new belt..

Anyone have some photos? (off to get my camera)
Ed.

P.s. also for safety if anything goes wrong, I can just mark a particular tooth on each gear and on the belt itself, so long as i can access the bottommost gear.. ?

(went and got the camera)

the nuts are welded to irregular shaped flat pieces of metal, say 4mmx 20mm x34mm ? just to prevent the nuts coming back through the holes, the bolts go right through and press against the car...

the very bright orange rust is from water left over from degreasing, I don't have a compressor and the car is parked on the street...

Both gears have 2 bolts each incase one moves, one is not in view in the pictures... they are fingertight plus one turn or so...

[smithy010]

You're right in a way. If you plan on not loosening the camshaft sprocket then your method will work.
however, in order to get a cam belt properly tensioned (not that i'd know what proper tension is, cos i don't have the tool!), but the easiest way is to loosen the cam sprocket while the IP stays locked, then turn the camshaft sprocket till the belt between the camshaft and the IP is tight, and then tighten the top sprocket.
If you're not changing the cam belt, this will be less important, but i'd personally still do it.

The point is, you get my drift about the camshaft itself not being locked, so we understand each other.

[Edison]

The point is, you get my drift about the camshaft itself not being locked, so we understand each other.

actually no, I think you might be using different names for things?