Pyrometer Install/Problem

[truszip]

Today I set out to install my new pre-turbo pyrometer on my 1.9 IDI. I've done my homework and wish to install it in the exhaust manifold just before the flange going to the turbo. Looking at it from the top and underneath there's no real easy way to get at this so I decided to take the turbo off and go from there. At this point I wasn't against taking the exhaust manifold off too in order to get this installed correctly. What I've found is that all the nuts and bolts of the turbo and exhaust manifold are all rusted on solid, and fearing breaking them off I've had to abandon the project for now. I've soaked the bolts with penetrating fluid but I've never really had any good luck with using such products, so other than heating up the bolts with a touch which I don't have I'm not sure how to proceed next?? I can see why some have chosen to install the probe post turbo as it sure is a lot easier.
Any advice or opinions appreciated. Thanks.

[Transporter]

Today I set out to install my new pre-turbo pyrometer on my 1.9 IDI. I've done my homework and wish to install it in the exhaust manifold just before the flange going to the turbo. Looking at it from the top and underneath there's no real easy way to get at this so I decided to take the turbo off and go from there. At this point I wasn't against taking the exhaust manifold off too in order to get this installed correctly. What I've found is that all the nuts and bolts of the turbo and exhaust manifold are all rusted on solid, and fearing breaking them off I've had to abandon the project for now. I've soaked the bolts with penetrating fluid but I've never really had any good luck with using such products, so other than heating up the bolts with a touch which I don't have I'm not sure how to proceed next?? I can see why some have chosen to install the probe post turbo as it sure is a lot easier.
Any advice or opinions appreciated. Thanks.

I use the Wurth Rost OFF product for rusted bolts and nuts it works well.
The Wurth Rost OFF Plus is similar only it freezes the bolt makes it shrink - it works on smaller bolts.

http://www.properautocare.com/wurrosoffex.html

You can use even small torch to heat up the nut or bolt.
You could also use "the nutsert" (or nut rivet)

http://www.avdel-global.com/en/products/threaded-inserts/thin-sheet-nutsert.html

[Greg Roles]

Mate, just go as close after the turbo as you can. Drilling and welding to an exhaust pipe is a lot less risky and hassle than drilling a cast manifold. Remember the drill swarf or particles will end up in the manifold too, and whatever remains will have to exit via the exhaust turbine. Sure the actual temps after the turbo won't be exactly what the turbo sees, but Gale Banks and most engine tuners just say to add 100 deg F to get a good approximation. How accurate it the gauge and your angle of vision anyway??

I'd be leaving seized bolts be, unless you aren't afraid of snapped studs etc depends on your level of experience there. Not fun!

Personally, facing the same choice, I'm going post turbo, right next to it.

[gregozedobe]

I'd be leaving seized bolts be, unless you aren't afraid of snapped studs etc depends on your level of experience there. Not fun!

Personally, facing the same choice, I'm going post turbo, right next to it.

Sound advice - you could cause yourself a whole lot of problems trying to get that turbo off. As the old saying goes : "If it ain't broke, don't cause trouble trying to fix it ! "

[Transporter]

Well, if it's done after the turbo, than he could just stick the probe to the surface of the turbo and add 100 deg. to the reading. I wouldn't bother with the drilling.
Do it properly or don't do it at all.
I deal with the broken bolt or stud from time to time it is not the end of the world when it happens.
Just use The Wurth Rost of if you think the bolts are seized. Let it soak and they will come off.

[Greg Roles]

Not a bad idea, I'll wire mine on and see what I find. Good thinking!

[Transporter]

Long time ago I bought the turbo timer kit and it came with the surface temperature probe.

[gldgti]

unless you're measuring pre turbo temps (and i care not what anyone says) you arent getting hte full picture. furthermore, its not a matter of adding a constant offset.

put it this way:

exhaust pressure pre-turbo could be up to 35-40psi depending on the boost the turbo is producing and the engine revs. the pressure in the exhaust pipe MUST me much less than the pre turbine pressure in order for the turbine to do work.

as the gasses pass through the turbine, they are allowed to expand (after the turbine wheel, and into the exhaust pipe proper) and therefore cool.

if you want to measure your exhaust temp post turbine, then by all means do so, but for little more effort you could be gathering data about whats actually going on before the turbine and then you'll KNOW, and not have to GUESS.

[truszip]

Well I finally got most of the bolts and nut's loose. Now I'm stuck at another spot as I'm not sure how the turbo comes off. I've taken the 4 nut's off the down pipe flange bolting onto the turbo, but I don't see anything anywhere else holding the turbo in place other than 2 bolts coming up from the bottom of the manifold which are inaccessible and 4 bolts on the opposite side of the cast housing that the downpipe bolts to, looks like they hold the turbo into that housing. The problem there is I only have access to 3 out of the 4 bolt's as the bottom bolt that is closest to the block seems to be inaccessible?? I thought about removing the whole manifold with the turbo still on it but the turbo seems to be in the way of getting at a manifold stud or two. As I can't see what I'm doing I'm feeling my way around back there.
Also - how many nut's are holding the manifold in place anyway, at least if I know that I'll know what I'm looking for. Any advice on this much appreciated. Thanks.

[gldgti]

there are 8 exhaust studs holding the manifild on...

there is probably only 3 fasteners holding the turbo to the manifold, in a triangle shape. 2 of them are bolts, the other is a fixed stud with a nut on the end.

good luck!

[truszip]

Well job done - I'm pre turbo, but please don't ever ask me to do it again! once was enough.
Thanks for all the info.

[Transporter]

It will be a piece of cake when you do it second time.
You should take pictures of the instalation and post it, some people would be interested.

[zillah]

I use the Wurth Rost OFF product for rusted bolts and nuts it works well.

Could you please advise from where can I buy it ? I tried Bunnings and SuperCheap auto,,,,I could not find it

Thanks

[Transporter]

Could you please advise from where can I buy it ? I tried Bunnings and SuperCheap auto,,,,I could not find it

Thanks

Look in the White pages for local your local Wurth distributor or you can try LIQUI MOLY Rapid Rust Loosener from SuperCheap Auto.

[mollins]

You should take pictures of the instalation and post it, some people would be interested.

im interested