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  • 2.0l Oil/Filter change

    I have just changed the oil & filter in my wife's 2.0L TDI Golf for the first time[second time for the car, first time for me].
    Being new to these vehicles and knowing little about the oil filter system, I initially drained the oil via the sump plug and then removed the 32mm. cap on what turned out to be the oil cooler - I had expected to find the filter element inside the cooler - wrong. I then located the second 32mm. plug at the top of the filter/cooler and , presto, the filter element is in there. The thing that surprised me was that when I first removed the cap on the under side of the cooler a considerable amount of dirty oil poored out. This oil was trapped in the filter/cooler assembly and had not drained out via the sump plug. I can only assume that if one was to simply drain the oil via the sump and replace the element via the top 32mm. cap that maybe 200 to 300 ml. of dirty oil would remain trapped within the cooler assembly. This would be no different to diluting your new engine oil with an equivilant amount of used oil; hardly an ideal thing.
    I am hoping someone will reply and tell me that I am wrong, otherwise I would be inclined to drain this dirty oil from the cooler at each oil/filter change.

  • #2
    Originally posted by 250 downunder View Post
    I have just changed the oil & filter in my wife's 2.0L TDI Golf for the first time[second time for the car, first time for me].
    Being new to these vehicles and knowing little about the oil filter system, I initially drained the oil via the sump plug and then removed the 32mm. cap on what turned out to be the oil cooler - I had expected to find the filter element inside the cooler - wrong. I then located the second 32mm. plug at the top of the filter/cooler and , presto, the filter element is in there. The thing that surprised me was that when I first removed the cap on the under side of the cooler a considerable amount of dirty oil poored out. This oil was trapped in the filter/cooler assembly and had not drained out via the sump plug. I can only assume that if one was to simply drain the oil via the sump and replace the element via the top 32mm. cap that maybe 200 to 300 ml. of dirty oil would remain trapped within the cooler assembly. This would be no different to diluting your new engine oil with an equivilant amount of used oil; hardly an ideal thing.
    I am hoping someone will reply and tell me that I am wrong, otherwise I would be inclined to drain this dirty oil from the cooler at each oil/filter change.

    i can't say you're wrong at all.

    i see no problem with doing this, so long as you ensure that you refill the oil sufficiently to make up for this extra drain.
    '07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
    '98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
    '99 A4 Quattro 1.8T

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    • #3
      Originally posted by gldgti View Post
      i can't say you're wrong at all.

      i see no problem with doing this, so long as you ensure that you refill the oil sufficiently to make up for this extra drain.
      I certainly did, and much more easily after I applied a short section of white heat shrink tube to the section between the high & low marks on that stupid black dipstick! [I will be checking the dip stick regularly to see how the tubing stands up to hot oil]

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      • #4
        I haven't changed mine yet, the last free service is due in a couple of weeks. Although for the GTI, this thread has some good info, all 6 pages of it.
        Just in case you guys need some help with it. Use only for reference Edited on 7/28/09 for a cleaner filter housing removal Tools Jack & Stands (I wouldn't recommend the stock jack if your physically going under the car) Ratchet; 19mm & 1 1/2 or 36mm Standard 1/8": Oil Pan 5 qts of Oil...
        Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
        2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
        Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels

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        • #5
          I had a look at that Thread - good article. However the TDI system is totally different. The filter is accessed from the top of the engine and there is no way to drain the oil cooler, which is directly under it, without removing it's retaining cap. A cap with a drain as shown on the GTI oil filter case would be usefull.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 250 downunder View Post
            I have just changed the oil & filter in my wife's 2.0L TDI Golf for the first time[second time for the car, first time for me].
            Being new to these vehicles and knowing little about the oil filter system, I initially drained the oil via the sump plug and then removed the 32mm. cap on what turned out to be the oil cooler - I had expected to find the filter element inside the cooler - wrong. I then located the second 32mm. plug at the top of the filter/cooler and , presto, the filter element is in there. The thing that surprised me was that when I first removed the cap on the under side of the cooler a considerable amount of dirty oil poored out. This oil was trapped in the filter/cooler assembly and had not drained out via the sump plug. I can only assume that if one was to simply drain the oil via the sump and replace the element via the top 32mm. cap that maybe 200 to 300 ml. of dirty oil would remain trapped within the cooler assembly. This would be no different to diluting your new engine oil with an equivilant amount of used oil; hardly an ideal thing.
            I am hoping someone will reply and tell me that I am wrong, otherwise I would be inclined to drain this dirty oil from the cooler at each oil/filter change.

            Which oil filter and part number is it?
            Looking at changing my oil soon, done 3,500km
            sigpicJeep Patriot CRD. Same Same, but different...

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Vicbitter View Post
              Which oil filter and part number is it?
              Looking at changing my oil soon, done 3,500km
              Interesting that you should ask! The invoice lists 071115562A [Highway - $14.50 +gst]. The package [genuine VW made in France] is marked 071115562C.
              The removed element was marked 045115466C - VWAG made in Austria.
              Whilst the appearance of the unit supplied by Highway was quite different it fitted ok.
              I changed the fuel filter at the same time. P/No.1K0127434A - $52.90+gst.
              [A little tip here - it is possible to change the fuel filter without removing the fuel lines from the cap. After removing the retaining screws from the cap it can be moved aside sufficiently to remove & re-fit the element]

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              • #8
                Be thankful this is the case, as the oil filter / cooler housing has several non return valves to keep oil in the area, purely so when you start the car, oil gets to the turbo far, far quicker when it most certainly needs to. I'm not keen on a turbo spinning up without oil that is still on it's way up from the sump!

                I just drain the cooler as well when I do a change, but yeah as if the dealer would bother. I figure doing changes at 7500k's I'm keeping the dirt levels down anyhow.
                2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

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                • #9
                  I'm fairly new to diesels so i'm thankful for the info.

                  So the oil filter change is fairly simple (did my own services on the commodore)
                  With the added oil cooler too, i didnt know this.
                  So do i take out the oil cooler, drain the excess?
                  Or just leave it alone?
                  sigpicJeep Patriot CRD. Same Same, but different...

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                  • #10
                    If you want to drain the oil filter housing the easy way...

                    Loosen the oil filter top housing right off first, before draining the oil. But don't remove the filter, as it will be full of oil & will get very messy. Just loosen the oil filter housing cap off, that's all.

                    This allow's the oil in the filter to drain, as the housing will have a place to breath from to drain freely.

                    Stay away from the oil cooler housing underneath.

                    It's also handy to run the engine for a few minutes & get the oil hot first, then it will drain alot easier.

                    Hope this make's sense.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by cogdoc View Post
                      Be thankful this is the case, as the oil filter / cooler housing has several non return valves to keep oil in the area, purely so when you start the car, oil gets to the turbo far, far quicker when it most certainly needs to. I'm not keen on a turbo spinning up without oil that is still on it's way up from the sump!

                      I just drain the cooler as well when I do a change, but yeah as if the dealer would bother. I figure doing changes at 7500k's I'm keeping the dirt levels down anyhow.
                      Do you just loosen the cap under the cooler and let it go? Messy business hey!
                      Do you partially fill the filter canister with fresh oil before fitting the new element and the cap?
                      I had difficulty removing the filter cap initially until I realized that the filter element clips onto the cap and that it must be unclipped before the cap can be removed - can't remove the cap with the element still attached to it. This could be a trap for first timers [it was for me].

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by golfworx View Post
                        If you want to drain the oil filter housing the easy way...

                        Loosen the oil filter top housing right off first, before draining the oil. But don't remove the filter, as it will be full of oil & will get very messy. Just loosen the oil filter housing cap off, that's all.

                        This allow's the oil in the filter to drain, as the housing will have a place to breath from to drain freely.

                        Stay away from the oil cooler housing underneath.

                        It's also handy to run the engine for a few minutes & get the oil hot first, then it will drain alot easier.

                        Hope this make's sense.
                        Sounds easier and cleaner. Does this allow most of the oil in the filter/cooler assy. to drain down into the sump ?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by 250 downunder View Post
                          Sounds easier and cleaner. Does this allow most of the oil in the filter/cooler assy. to drain down into the sump ?
                          It should drain whatever oil content's are in the housing into the sump.

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                          • #14
                            Anyone from melbourne recommend any vw dealerships for servicing
                            sigpicJeep Patriot CRD. Same Same, but different...

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                            • #15
                              No matter what you do, you will never drain all the oil out of the engine. Oil has to stay in the oil pump and the oil galleries (dirty oil is better than none).
                              I suck the oil from the oil filter housing when the oil filter is removed using vacuum oil extractor and after replacing the drain plug I fill some oil through the oil filter housing in the engine.
                              Performance Tunes from $850
                              Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link

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