Diesel Crank replacement

[Golf Loon]

Its not a secret.

GSF. German Sweedish and French. www.gsfcarparts.com

I just paid 70quid delivered for rings and bearings.

[smithy010]

It's cheaper from the states... just depends on freight charges.
Just over $100 from the states, and 130 from pommyland.
Do bearings come without the thrust washer attached these days? What are the advantages?

[hiho]

Hi Smithy, how is your diesel project coming along?

[smithy010]

It's been a little stalled by funding and uni keeping me busy.

I'll be getting engine bearings and seals soon, then it should be all go.

One thing i'm still concerned with..... I mentioned it in an earlier post, but when i pulled the bottom end down (locked inj pump and camshaft with flywheel at TDC mark). Now, i thought at this position that pot 1 should be at TDC, but in fact 1 was down, and 2 and 3 were up....

Is this a problem?

[brackie]

180 degrees

It's out of phase. Can't work out why but when you reassemble it set it back to TDC in all respects. Check that both valves on #1 cylinder are closed. (If the cam and ip are locked it's most of the way there anyway.)

[smithy010]

I could probably work it out if i thought about it, but is "Out of phase" bad? wouldn't the injector pump be timed as such? I think where the camshaft is locked, Pot 1 was low, and both valves are shut. I'll double check it.

[peter_j_g]

Is it possible that the flywheel which has the TDC mark on it can be put on 180 degrees from the correct pposition?

[smithy010]

That's not possible, because there are 6 holes in the flywheel and all of them are equally spaced, except for one of them- so it can only go on one way. WHy it says TDC on the flywheeel and isn't at TDC is beyond me.. suggestions?
How can it be 180 degrees out of phase? Is it a manufacture fault?

[brackie]

Back to basics

Mark.. If the #1 cylinder has both valves closed (points up), and the injection pump is fixed with a pin into the engine front plate, it must be at TDC. The chances of a manufacturing fault (TDC marks in the wrong place) are zero. Even if someone had put a flywheel from a different VAG car into it TDC would still be in the same place. Go back to basics and check the IP (you can do this with a "spill" test. Take of the #1 injector pipe and you should get diesel as the pump approaches point of injection for #1 cylinder). Then check your camshaft lobes at #1 to ensure that the valves are closed (check with a feeler guage). If both of these check out then you're at TDC

[Golf Loon]

Its something basic. Recheck like Brackie Says and it will come good.

[smithy010]

Thanks Lads, I'll do that just as soon as i get some time to scratch myself..

[smithy010]

Well, i've finally made some progress. I bought parts the other week, and i've been pulling the rest of it down and looking at each part and cleaning out the cooling passages and oil passages etc etc.
I was at my shed yesterday and a thought came to me- "What's stopping me from just bunging the crank in now?" So i did!

It was one of those things that you keep putting off because it's so important.

My "Engine lab" was far from clean and dust free, but i tried to be as clean as possible. Thought it would be more difficult with the pistons still in- but it wasn't too bad.
Now, the crank is in, and i haven't yet torqued up the bolts fully. Should i loctite them before i torque them?

It feels beautiful and smooth- not that it shouldn't!

So now all i've gotta do is sort all the other stuff out- engine mounts, cooling pipes, water pump etc.

One question i have is- do i have to take the injector pump bracket off to chage the engine mount? Or should i make up a little pusher and do it in- situ?

[brackie]

Asleep again

Sorry mate. Been very busy and not giving the forum the time it deserves.

Well, i've finally made some progress. I bought parts the other week, and i've been pulling the rest of it down and looking at each part and cleaning out the cooling passages and oil passages etc etc.
I was at my shed yesterday and a thought came to me- "What's stopping me from just bunging the crank in now?" So i did!

It was one of those things that you keep putting off because it's so important.

My "Engine lab" was far from clean and dust free, but i tried to be as clean as possible. Thought it would be more difficult with the pistons still in- but it wasn't too bad.
Now, the crank is in, and i haven't yet torqued up the bolts fully. Should i loctite them before i torque them?

No. Don't loctite them. Torquing them is all that's necessary. Do you have any Plastigauge? If so, put some into each bearing and torque it down to check that they aren't over-tight or worn (I'm assuming you're using new shells ) I always check for bearing crush whenever I put a "foreign" crank into an engine or have had one machined. I've been caught out before. (Do a search on bearing crush as I've explained it previously.)

It feels beautiful and smooth- not that it shouldn't!

So now all i've gotta do is sort all the other stuff out- engine mounts, cooling pipes, water pump etc.

One question i have is- do i have to take the injector pump bracket off to chage the engine mount? Or should i make up a little pusher and do it in- situ?

I would take the bracket off (you already have the pump off) as it makes the job easier.
Good luck! It should be a runner soon

[smithy010]

Update

I HAVE MADE NO PROGRESS.- except the bearings are in, and the sump is on.

Just thought you all might like to know that.....

BUT,

I have 3 weeks of uni left. After that, i have finished uni FOREVER! (unless i am so stupid as to enrol in a masters or phd in the future).

So, after i finish this thesis and hand it in, and before i build the new suspension for the UNSW solar car, my diesel engine will be getting some time. Put her all back together, time her up, and try to get it running on a stand, then bung it in and see how i go!

[smithy010]

Owing to the recent finishing of my degree, and the fact that my petrol engine is on its way out, i have made some progress on the diesel that's been sitting on the garage floor for around 12 months now.

I put the belt on and timed it today. Gave it a turn over by hand, and it feels good. It measures well (With my new little brass adaptor for my dial gauge, that i made the other week at the old man's place).

Now, all that should be left is to go and see Mr Loon and pick up the bits and bobs that he has saved up for me (including a new wasserpumper), and i should be in business.

Has anyone had a diesel running on a stand before ? I am tossing up whether to just throw it straight in the car without test running it, or whether to mount engine and gearbox in a light metal frame that i have made up for it and run it there... Wondering how much it will rattle around if it's not in the car? Also will have to set up some sort of cooling system if i'm going to do it out of the car... Sounds troublesome.