SHS Coilover Broken Shock absorber "Eyelet" /Mount X 2

[stormshark]

Hi Peoples,
I have had said coilovers on a MK5 Golf break twice(in 12 months from purchase) from the "eyelet or mount" where the Links from the Swaybar Join the shocker.After the first episode i replaced the OEM VW links with heavy duty adjustable links to the H and R sway bars at the front.HPA Motorsports(US) who i ordered from have been pretty good but said the factory (KW Germany) has refused the second warranty on account of the H and R sway bars.They offered me discounted exact replacements but after having it happen twice, am reticent and asked whether they had a more "Robust" product. They said they were in talks already for one from KW/SHS and would get back to me.Sort of reinforced my thoughts on not replacing existing. Times passing and i'm wondering whether any good person has a suggestion for locally available replacement shocker(s) that may fit the bill and work with the existing coils(if this makes sense). Thoughts appreciated as i reckon the cars pretty unroadworthy without the Sways and links to the shocker.


Cheers


Steve

[gldgti]

Hi Peoples,
I have had said coilovers on a MK5 Golf break twice(in 12 months from purchase) from the "eyelet or mount" where the Links from the Swaybar Join the shocker.After the first episode i replaced the OEM VW links with heavy duty adjustable links to the H and R sway bars at the front.HPA Motorsports(US) who i ordered from have been pretty good but said the factory (KW Germany) has refused the second warranty on account of the H and R sway bars.They offered me discounted exact replacements but after having it happen twice, am reticent and asked whether they had a more "Robust" product. They said they were in talks already for one from KW/SHS and would get back to me.Sort of reinforced my thoughts on not replacing existing. Times passing and i'm wondering whether any good person has a suggestion for locally available replacement shocker(s) that may fit the bill and work with the existing coils(if this makes sense). Thoughts appreciated as i reckon the cars pretty unroadworthy without the Sways and links to the shocker.


Cheers


Steve

Steve,

can you explain more clearly what has actually broken? From your original sentence I thought it was the steel tab that is welded onto the strut body, to which the sway bar link attaches - however the text afterwards seems to indicate its something else.

A picture would help.

[stormshark]

Steve,

can you explain more clearly what has actually broken? From your original sentence I thought it was the steel tab that is welded onto the strut body, to which the sway bar link attaches - however the text afterwards seems to indicate its something else.

A picture would help.

Hi gldti,

Thanks for response. Yes its the eyelet (steel tab)on the strut where the links connect to the shocker. I will try and get a photo.



Steve

[gldgti]

If that is the case, then the problem lies with the SHS manufactured strut, not with the links. Replacing the links with heavy duty ones wont make any difference - it might even make it worse, but I doubt it.

Not all aftermarket suspension components are made as well as they need to be. I can't wait to see your photo!

(I am a mechanical engineer and weld every day of the week, so this is interesting to me!)

[Guy_H]

See this thread:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums/f39/sway-bar-end-links-87044.html

[stormshark]

Thanks guys, forgot there was a similar thread-shock absorber "Mount" i think i should have said. Photos look similar to others' problems.These are the photos. So are they faulty or the way we are setting them up with link/Sway Bar combo and Please what are my options? Thanks in advance.

[gldgti]

From reading through the other thread and looking at your pics, it seems pretty clear now that the problem is the combination of parts used in any particular vehicle (struts and swaybars) can end up requiring quite a range of swaybar link lengths to be correct.

If the swaybar link is not very close to the same (lets call it castor) angle as the strut, it will impose a torque on the strut through the swaybar link tab. The tabs on most of these aftermarket struts arent designed to handle that kind of force, and they break off.

The best thing would be to fit all the parts back up and then take note of the difference in the 'castor' angle between the strut and the swaybar link. You will need to adjust the link so that the angle is minimised (so that the up/down force that is transmitted by the from the swaybar to the swaybar link does not push the tab from side to side)

[Guy_H]

Yes - as above, there are a bunch of factors. When we started the Tiguan coilover project 6 months ago, we were faced with a hole new bunch of variables, including new swaybars, new ride heights etc. We spent a couple of hours on the alignment machine wit the vehicle lock to lock & then road testing to see the load on the links & struts.

What VWR (Volkswagen Racing) came up with was a new version that has a ton of movement in the ball joints, which stops binding & extra load. They are not cheap, but you pay for the joint itself.

[stormshark]

Thanks for the feedback both of you, appreciated. But just recapping,is the prudent way out, to Replace the two front shocks with something else that fits within the coils, keep the existing whiteline links, and have them all better set up initially, as you've noted or replace the one shock, maintaining the SHS combination and have them better set- or either combination with replacing the links with the other sets of links suggested? (Hope my understanding of the options are correct)

[Guy_H]

Just follow the advice on setup in that other thread.

Also your busted shock is repairable, a good fabricator can re tig weld the bracket & brace it without putting excess heat into the damper body. It's a little tricky, but possible

[stormshark]

Just follow the advice on setup in that other thread.

Also your busted shock is repairable, a good fabricator can re tig weld the bracket & brace it without putting excess heat into the damper body. It's a little tricky, but possible

Thanks Guy, will do- really appreciate the advise and hope i can return the favour,perhaps with a purchase someday.