NOOB wheel & suspension set up help needed...

[BIGPOCKETS]

Hey all.
I've picked up my MKV '08 GTi with all the options & I love it....

(Can you believe I had it for less than a week & some a**hole reversed into my driver/rear panel as I popped into a servo to get a bottle of H20...it'll all be taken care of with insurance - it's so annoying!)

I am looking at getting new wheels & tires from...
Stock:
*225/45-17 on 17" alloys OEM to (I think offset is 51 on OEMs...?)

Option 1: 225/45-18 on 18" x 8.5" et45
or
Option 2: 235/35-19 on 19" x 8.5" et45 (same size as the golf R, but not sure of offset)
(The reason I've thrown the 19" into the mix is that I really like a set of wheels which only come in 19s)

I would most likely also get some EIBACH (PRO-KIT or SPORTLINE) springs to lower the car a fraction, if needed - I think the stock is pretty decent - however do these sport springs improve the ride that much?
Am looking for a good compromise between handling & comfort, maybe a 40/60 split. As it's it's my daily driver too, I don't want to mod it too much.

Just wanted to know your opinions - experts please chime in.
Does anyone have a similar set-up?
I was thinking maybe getting wheels & tires first & then see if I needed the springs? Any thoughts?...

Cheers all.

[dylan8]

to calculate offset and widths we also need width of the stock wheels (7.5" im guessing... but could be 7")
225/45/18 will be too big for your car, look at 225/40/18
a lot of the mk5 crew complain about 235/35 rubber rubbing. so 225/35 is best for clearance and rolling diamters, but this means the load rating isnt high enough (doesn't bother most people, but worth mentioning)
also from memory 8.5et45 on a mk5 pokes unless its had decent lowering, so maybe lower first then calculate your widths and offsets.
do eibach make a 40/60 kit? or did you mean 60/40?

in regards to the wheels and tyres thats been covered a million times in the mk5 section and this section, sure a quick search/flick through the threads will bring something up.

Hope that helps!

[kaanage]

however do these sport springs improve the ride that much?

No, they will almost certainly make the ride harsher and could make it more floaty too.

I was thinking maybe getting wheels & tires first & then see if I needed the springs? Any thoughts?...

Are the big wheels for looks or are you chasing performance? Adzy cuts great track times in his MkV GTi with 17" rims (and really good rubber and suspension).
Personally, I'd upgrade your tyres and get a good cup kit (springs AND dampers) or good coilovers

[BIGPOCKETS]

Sorry my bad: meant 225/45-18 tires.
The bigger wheels are definitely for looks...it's my daily driver- so needs to look good & be comfy ...I guess am looking at 18s...with a higher offset, close to 50 am guessing...

[fred27]

I run the Eibach Pro Kit. It is a very good product, the valving is matched to the springs and give a very good balance of ride and handling.

[BIGPOCKETS]

Follow up

Hi veryone wh read this post & offered suggestions....

I think I'm going to do this in stages.....

I'm going to stay with 18" wheels & have narrowed it down to these 2 styles:
A Detroit look wheel...

1. ALPIL W12 (18" x 7.5" et4 with 10mm spacers to fit like VMR V710 (18" x 8.5" et45: which sit pretty flush with the guards)

Alpil W12 19" Wheels 4 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

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OR

2.AZEV P NERO (18" x 8.5" et 45)

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Felgen: Neuer Mercedes CLS mit Azev Typ P - PRESTIGE CARS Magazin - Automobile, Luxus, Menschen


Obviously both with 225 / 40-18 tires..


I think I did my maths correctly.

Which ones do you guys prefer?
I'm liking the W12s as they have a stock look but have more angular lines & are not as flat along the face - there's a slight shape towards the centre...

Any thoughts?

Cheers guys.

[Buller_Scott]

in terms of comfort, and not to rain on any parade, but bigger wheels will almost always equal harsher ride.

that being said, if you're adamant that you're going to get bigger wheels, then i guess you could compromise with lower tyre pressures etc... even though that would mean looser handling (but that's okay if it's not a priority).

as for springs - as greg (kaanage) said, if you just get springs, it may make the car LOOK slightly cooler but it will feel bouncy at speed, it will mean slower cornering due to mismatched spring/ damper rates etc etc. it's a step back, really - i've been there, and in hindsight i should have just abstained and gone from stock> coilovers, instead of stock>headache to uninstall + not great for ride nor performance lowering springs> coilovers.

if you want the car to look lower, though, and are willing to sacrifice some stock plushness, i'd probably recommend the H&R brand for just lowering springs - as far as i've seen on all the polos that have them on, they DO achieve the promised lowering, and things looked even all around. orange-tuning.de has them pretty cheap, from what i remember.

also, and not to doubt anyone's positive experiences with the eibach product, but i've read a few posts on other forums where people were not happy with the "pro kit" because not only did the springs fail to achieve the advertised, desired lowering, but once they'd settled, all four corners had lowered by different amounts - NOT good if you're chasing a "flush" look, and REALLY not good if you're trying to build a car that's balanced for optimal cornering ability.

p.s. dude, i live like 2 minutes drive from you, just near piedimonti's

[BIGPOCKETS]

Hi all...

Can I ask all who have 18" wheels or 19" - your reasons for deciding which one over the other?
I realize there are benefits & disadvantags for both, either aesthetically or practical...but am just curious why you chose one over the other & if you've kept them or reverted back to 18 or 19s & vice-versa...
Am in a state where I'd like to buy some 19/8 et42 with 235/35-19rubber or 18/8 et45 with 225/40-18 rubber...am trully stuck!
I love the look of the 19s, but am worried about the potential -harsh ride...yet the 18's ar a good visual upgrade, but maybe am compromising too much..?..
HELP!
My wife thinks I'm crazy if I invest hus $s on the 19s only to sell them afterwards - if I'm not happy....she makes sense though...
HELP!

[johnc]

Get 18s. It's just easier and with the right drop, look just as great/better (depending upon tastes)

19s are just harder work. You'll be complaining about rubbing if you fit 19"s. Then you'll have to roll your fenders, and then some just to make them not rub. Especially if you go about making them have an aggressive offset. And it's not like we can legally get any stretch out of a tyre for a 19". You need 235/35/19 with a rating of 91Y to be legal. You'll see some examples of 19"s fit in the US on MKV's with good drops, but they're usually on a 215 to help.

I run 19s (the W12s of mine you pictured above), but it's not a daily. That said, I don't find the ride all that harsh. I just complain about the state of NSW roads all the time.

So yeah, 18s. More options + cheaper rubber, less headaches.

[dylan8]

You'll be complaining about rubbing if you fit 19"s. Then you'll have to roll your fenders, and then some just to make them not rub.

sorry, but can you explain how?
say if you had two wheels. same width, same offset, but one 19 and one 18, and ran tyres on both that had the same width and rolling diameter there would be no difference in rubbing. if one rubs, so will the other.

[kaanage]

sorry, but can you explain how?
say if you had two wheels. same width, same offset, but one 19 and one 18, and ran tyres on both that had the same width and rolling diameter there would be no difference in rubbing. if one rubs, so will the other.

To maintain the load rating you almost always need to run wider tyres when going to larger wheels.

[johnc]

I'm not sure I understand how you got to your question from my quote, but anyway…

My comment was in response to 19" wheels alone. I didn't say anything about whether or not he would rub on an 18" wheel. My response was aimed at the OP's first post about whether or not to choose a 19" or 18" wheel. Both could be made to rub, quite easily, but as everyone knows, it's a hell of a lot easier to get a 19" rubbing at stock height, than it is to get an OEM tyre spec rubbing.

Yes, the theoretical situation you pose would pan out exactly as you describe. Those closest match being the 235/40/18 (I owned a set of Michelin PSC's at that spec) and they are very, very closely matched to my 235/35/19s. That was the reason I chose them. But that's another story no? Yes, an 18" will rub with 235 tyres (depending on offset/drop), but few people would choose to run that spec, and the OP had already noted that he'd run a 225/40/18 if on an 18" wheel. So why would I bother to address that?

I chimed in as I have the same car and run 19"s, so the info is based on my personal experience. It sounded like the OP wanted some feedback about 19"s, so I gave him the easy line. Especially as the 19" wheels he talked about buying, are the ones I currently run. Seems fair that I gave some feedback on ease of use/legal tyres etc. If he was any other way inclined he would get the 19"s and make them work like some have, no matter what, like myself.

I've gone through various heights/suspension/offsets/wheels/camber plates I've had offsets around ~30 on 19" 235/35/19 and 18" with 235/40/18 and the stock 225/40/18. There is still a small difference between them (the first 2 I mentioned that is), but it only takes a few mm for it to rub or not. Just like the fender screw mod saved a few people from rubbing. And what was the depth of that screw head – 3mm if that. Same with the fender roll. There's not a lot in the roll – about 2mms of extra width, possibly 3mm before you get to resetting the fender location or possibly flaring/custom body work. And for most who've done the basic roll with mostly normal offsets and legal tyres specs, the rubbing is only on the plastic wheel lining. I know I don't have a build thread to give me scene points for it, but I've been through it, so shared a small touch of advice, which I've now hopefully elaborated on. (Somewhat unnecessarily I think)

I'm sure I could make a whole lot of s*** rub with some 16"s, some bags and frame notching, but I don't think I need to cover that too.

[Buller_Scott]

I'm not sure I understand how you got to your question from my quote, but anyway…

My comment was in response to 19" wheels alone. I didn't say anything about whether or not he would rub on an 18" wheel. My response was aimed at the OP's first post about whether or not to choose a 19" or 18" wheel. Both could be made to rub, quite easily, but as everyone knows, it's a hell of a lot easier to get a 19" rubbing at stock height, than it is to get an OEM tyre spec rubbing.

Yes, the theoretical situation you pose would pan out exactly as you describe. Those closest match being the 235/40/18 (I owned a set of Michelin PSC's at that spec) and they are very, very closely matched to my 235/35/19s. That was the reason I chose them. But that's another story no? Yes, an 18" will rub with 235 tyres (depending on offset/drop), but few people would choose to run that spec, and the OP had already noted that he'd run a 225/40/18 if on an 18" wheel. So why would I bother to address that?

I chimed in as I have the same car and run 19"s, so the info is based on my personal experience. It sounded like the OP wanted some feedback about 19"s, so I gave him the easy line. Especially as the 19" wheels he talked about buying, are the ones I currently run. Seems fair that I gave some feedback on ease of use/legal tyres etc. If he was any other way inclined he would get the 19"s and make them work like some have, no matter what, like myself.

I've gone through various heights/suspension/offsets/wheels/camber plates I've had offsets around ~30 on 19" 235/35/19 and 18" with 235/40/18 and the stock 225/40/18. There is still a small difference between them (the first 2 I mentioned that is), but it only takes a few mm for it to rub or not. Just like the fender screw mod saved a few people from rubbing. And what was the depth of that screw head – 3mm if that. Same with the fender roll. There's not a lot in the roll – about 2mms of extra width, possibly 3mm before you get to resetting the fender location or possibly flaring/custom body work. And for most who've done the basic roll with mostly normal offsets and legal tyres specs, the rubbing is only on the plastic wheel lining. I know I don't have a build thread to give me scene points for it, but I've been through it, so shared a small touch of advice, which I've now hopefully elaborated on. (Somewhat unnecessarily I think)

I'm sure I could make a whole lot of s*** rub with some 16"s, some bags and frame notching, but I don't think I need to cover that too.

i think i get what you're getting at, but could you clarify/ expand on this a little please?

[dylan8]

I'm not sure I understand how you got to your question from my quote, but anyway…

My comment was in response to 19" wheels alone. I didn't say anything about whether or not he would rub on an 18" wheel. My response was aimed at the OP's first post about whether or not to choose a 19" or 18" wheel. Both could be made to rub, quite easily, but as everyone knows, it's a hell of a lot easier to get a 19" rubbing at stock height, than it is to get an OEM tyre spec rubbing.

Yes, the theoretical situation you pose would pan out exactly as you describe. Those closest match being the 235/40/18 (I owned a set of Michelin PSC's at that spec) and they are very, very closely matched to my 235/35/19s. That was the reason I chose them. But that's another story no? Yes, an 18" will rub with 235 tyres (depending on offset/drop), but few people would choose to run that spec, and the OP had already noted that he'd run a 225/40/18 if on an 18" wheel. So why would I bother to address that?

I chimed in as I have the same car and run 19"s, so the info is based on my personal experience. It sounded like the OP wanted some feedback about 19"s, so I gave him the easy line. Especially as the 19" wheels he talked about buying, are the ones I currently run. Seems fair that I gave some feedback on ease of use/legal tyres etc. If he was any other way inclined he would get the 19"s and make them work like some have, no matter what, like myself.

I've gone through various heights/suspension/offsets/wheels/camber plates I've had offsets around ~30 on 19" 235/35/19 and 18" with 235/40/18 and the stock 225/40/18. There is still a small difference between them (the first 2 I mentioned that is), but it only takes a few mm for it to rub or not. Just like the fender screw mod saved a few people from rubbing. And what was the depth of that screw head – 3mm if that. Same with the fender roll. There's not a lot in the roll – about 2mms of extra width, possibly 3mm before you get to resetting the fender location or possibly flaring/custom body work. And for most who've done the basic roll with mostly normal offsets and legal tyres specs, the rubbing is only on the plastic wheel lining. I know I don't have a build thread to give me scene points for it, but I've been through it, so shared a small touch of advice, which I've now hopefully elaborated on. (Somewhat unnecessarily I think)

I'm sure I could make a whole lot of s*** rub with some 16"s, some bags and frame notching, but I don't think I need to cover that too.

I understand what your getting at. more the way it was written first time around made it sound like 18s will have less chance of rubbing then 19s. as you pointed out above, that comes down to a lot of things (offset, width, tyre size). the assumption would be that the 19s MAY be wider then the 18s, in this case yeah they could rub. but saying 19s alone will rub isnt exactly right...

my example is my 19x8.5et35 with 225/35s rubbed a lot less then my 18x8.5et30 225/40s. obviously the factor here is the offset, but thats not in question, its the diameter of the wheel the OP is asking about

[johnc]

All true, but the OP said his 19" options was 235/35/19 on a 19x8.5 ~ET45, so we were dealing with specific specs. Rather tried and tested specs for 19"s and Golf MKV/IVs – especially as they with load ratings stuff. Based on that, I felt the rest was assumed knowledge and that I didn't have to factor in a bunch of variables that weren't initially tabled. If you move away from his tabled specs, it has scope to change like your example.

But yeah, loads of variables if you get into it. A guy in the US drew up an estimated basic table for various drops/offsets which maybe be a decent guide.

MkV wheel/tire fitment guide