Confirming camber adj on mk4 fronts

[Dyldo]

Whilst getting an alignment I was asked to confirm for the align place that there is camber adjustment on the stock Lower Control Arms. The only answer i had (other than adjustable top mounts) was the slight eliptical bolt holes in the LCA where the ball joint sits.

Refer here:-
Volkswagen Jetta IV VR6 24v > Suspension > OEM > ES#260071 Lower Front Control Arm - Fits Left And Right Side - 1J0407151C

Is this correct? If so, how much range of camber adjustment is available?

[Dyldo]

anybody? nothing? tough crowd

[h100vw]

Yeah, you can adjust it but it's not like the olden days of MK1s. There's not loads of degrees available.

Gavin

[Speed]

Dyldo,
Apologies for bringing back an old thread but I'm curious to know how you went.
I also want to be able to adjust my camber, mainly to correct some neg camber from lowering.
I want my car set up for street use and don't want to chew the inside of my tyres out. Most kits I've seen are to increase neg camber, not reduce it.

PS The ECS LCA's that you linked are not the adjustable TT ones.

[rayray086]

The Mk4 FWD setup doesn't camber much from lowering. Adjustment is pretty much non existent for the FWD as the slots for the ball joint bolts on the LCA are not elliptical. The ones on the TT/R32/S3 are though - I'll be converting my A3 FWD to run S3 spindles and LCA to gain camber adjustment as well as better suspension geometry for lowering (the ball joint sits lower on the TT/R32/S3 spindles compared to the FWD models).

Have you had your car aligned yet? Would be good to note down what the camber is at now, cos you might not need to have it adjusted.

[whiteVR6]

The Mk4 FWD setup doesn't camber much from lowering. Adjustment is pretty much non existent for the FWD as the slots for the ball joint bolts on the LCA are not elliptical. The ones on the TT/R32/S3 are though - I'll be converting my A3 FWD to run S3 spindles and LCA to gain camber adjustment as well as better suspension geometry for lowering (the ball joint sits lower on the TT/R32/S3 spindles compared to the FWD models).

Have you had your car aligned yet? Would be good to note down what the camber is at now, cos you might not need to have it adjusted.

You do realise you have to change control arms, ball joints, tie rods (possibly rack), sway bar and linkages?

[Dyldo]

Dyldo,
Apologies for bringing back an old thread but I'm curious to know how you went.
I also want to be able to adjust my camber, mainly to correct some neg camber from lowering.
I want my car set up for street use and don't want to chew the inside of my tyres out. Most kits I've seen are to increase neg camber, not reduce it.

Mate great timing. I picked up a used set of R32 shocks and springs and will be putting those back in with my original stock arms. I will need to address the quality issues I am experiencing with the Gruvenparts adj LCAs. They will be coming off and getting sent back to Gruven. They keep failing at the welds and become fused so no adjustment.

[rayray086]

You do realise you have to change control arms, ball joints, tie rods (possibly rack), sway bar and linkages?

Yep, located an S3 wreck and gonna be helping the guy pull out the stuff. That said, I'm replacing all the bushings, ball joints and tie-rod ends. Gonna flip the tierods and switch them around, that's meant to work going by what the yanks do. Keeps the LCA and tie-rod angle the same too. Otherwise I'll just add S3 tie-rods into the mix. Not running swaybar.

You know I like my lows haha.


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[Speed]

Have you had your car aligned yet? Would be good to note down what the camber is at now, cos you might not need to have it adjusted.

Not yet, have replaced a bent KW strut on the front right. Prior to the this I had 3 degrees neg camber. Am finishing it off today (now that I have a rattle gun!) but don't like the idea that the camber can't be adjusted.

Mate great timing. I picked up a used set of R32 shocks and springs and will be putting those back in with my original stock arms. I will need to address the quality issues I am experiencing with the Gruvenparts adj LCAs. They will be coming off and getting sent back to Gruven. They keep failing at the welds and become fused so no adjustment.

Yeah I saw your pics re the gruven parts LCAs. Not good!

K-MAC make a strut tower camber/caster adjustment for $480 a pair. I am considering this option for optimal geometry. Would be less fuss to change settings if ever hitting the track.
Overall I just want to have it 0 toe in and minimal neg camber - Not sure if this should be 0 or about 1 degree?

[Njay]

Yep, located an S3 wreck and gonna be helping the guy pull out the stuff. That said, I'm replacing all the bushings, ball joints and tie-rod ends. Gonna flip the tierods and switch them around, that's meant to work going by what the yanks do. Keeps the LCA and tie-rod angle the same too. Otherwise I'll just add S3 tie-rods into the mix. Not running swaybar.

You know I like my lows haha.


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Is it possible to pull the rear suspension and haldex from an s3 and convert an a3 to quattro?

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[rayray086]

You could try loosening the ball joint bolts and pull on the top of the brake rotor.

Transplanting the S3 gear isn't a bolt-on affair if that's what you're asking!


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[Speed]

You could try loosening the ball joint bolts and pull on the top of the brake rotor.
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I thought that I had done this but will try again with an extra set of hands.

When I tightened the top strut tower nut, I noticed that I could still move the top of the strut.
The car was in the air (on a stand) but I still thought that there wouldn't be any play int this. Is this assumption correct?

Think I'm just gonna have to bite the bullet and take it to someone to sort out for me, as it still appears to have more negative camber on the front right compared to the left. Maybe the sub frame needs adjusting to even this out...

I do still need to get the wheel alignment but wanted to have it all corrected in one trip. I don't want them to try and then be told I need something else so that they can adjust it properly.