I checked fitment, but still have rubbing - advice on spacers

[Dyldo]

howdy all

I picked up these for my 4Mo - http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/f24/...res-51746.html

17x7 et40 - and everywhere that i checked and everyone i spoke to said fitment wouldn't be an issue.

Fronts - i've done nothing to my Front brakes other than a Tyrol stiffening kit, and i get the wire caliper retaining pin rubbing on the rim.

Rears - Would not clear rear calipers at all and they're stock. Had to run and buy some generic el cheapo wheel spacers from Pep's (can't remember brand of spacer) and i am aware of the legalities here with spacers.

Anyone have thoughts?

I guess i have two questions:-
1) Are generic spacers a safety concern? Should i go ECS or spring for H&R (but they confuse me with their Gen1 and 2, etc)?
2) i now have a "wheel bolt width" of thread binding the rears (as i didn't buy extended wheel bolts to cover the extra 5mm spacers). ideally we need "wheel bolt thickness and a half" for stock binding. Any safety issues here?

(OK that was more than 2 questions )

On the plus side, an unexpected benefit of the rims is that they're polished from straight side on, but go darker and darker shadow effect on the sides. its pretty wicked.

[Ben J]

bigger spacers and longer bolts sounds to be the way to go

from what i've read it's a very good idea to get longer bolts, even if its only a 5mm spacer.

[Dyldo]

the alignment blokes thought it'd be fine with the 5mm i am running, but you're right in terms of getting more thread.

How do you bend the retaining clip back in so it doesn't rub? i can't seem to bend it back in enough...

[rayray086]

The wheel width and offset plays no role in whether or not they will clear the brakes. You could have a low offset wheel with poor brake clearance and vice versa. Only thing to do here is to use spacers unfortunately.

[Dyldo]

cheers Ray - bummer though.

Are ECS spacers good quality? or go to H&R?

[Dyldo]

Update - Turns out that the spacers i got are p00 and are wheel centric and not hubcentric. That means there is no weight on the hub and all the weight is on the 5 wheel bolts (poor little wheel bolts). I made it to work but then changed a few things on the way home.

What i did was remove the 5mm spacers on the fronts and fixed the clearance issue of the slight rubbing by removing the brake caliper retaining clip/spring. Research shows its not really that needed, and i experienced no adverse knocking or noise from break operation in forward or reverse. The rears need the spacers as un-spaced they do not clear the rear rotors.

What i did experience however was absolutely WOEFUL handling from the now-offset geometry between fronts and rears. As in, the fronts are now 10mm total inboard of the rears. As a result the turn in is very lazy and very floaty. The car feels positively unstable at 90+kmh which isn't fun. I actually don't want to driver her and with all the stupidness i've gone through it's kind of wearing me down.

If i nabbed some 2mm spacers from ECS Volkswagen Jetta IV VR6 24v > Wheels > Spacers > ES#116 VW / Audi Wheel Spacers - 2mm (1 Pair) - ECS#241KT-A then the geometry would reset back to stock (well, 2mm more than stock, but at least the track would be equal side-to-side and front-to-rear).

I then wonder if I need my sways upgraded too. I'd really need to get some sort of advice, this is really getting to me.

[Preen59]

Update - Turns out that the spacers i got are p00 and are wheel centric and not hubcentric. That means there is no weight on the hub and all the weight is on the 5 wheel bolts (poor little wheel bolts). I made it to work but then changed a few things on the way home.

What i did was remove the 5mm spacers on the fronts and fixed the clearance issue of the slight rubbing by removing the brake caliper retaining clip/spring. Research shows its not really that needed, and i experienced no adverse knocking or noise from break operation in forward or reverse. The rears need the spacers as un-spaced they do not clear the rear rotors.

What i did experience however was absolutely WOEFUL handling from the now-offset geometry between fronts and rears. As in, the fronts are now 10mm total inboard of the rears. As a result the turn in is very lazy and very floaty. The car feels positively unstable at 90+kmh which isn't fun. I actually don't want to driver her and with all the stupidness i've gone through it's kind of wearing me down.

If i nabbed some 2mm spacers from ECS Volkswagen Jetta IV VR6 24v > Wheels > Spacers > ES#116 VW / Audi Wheel Spacers - 2mm (1 Pair) - ECS#241KT-A then the geometry would reset back to stock (well, 2mm more than stock, but at least the track would be equal side-to-side and front-to-rear).

I then wonder if I need my sways upgraded too. I'd really need to get some sort of advice, this is really getting to me.

Stress less dude. Its not as bigger issue as you're making out. Running spacers that aren't hubcentric isn't good, but regardless of what some pansies will tell you, its not life threatening. I got your Pm, I've replied and I'll look into it and sort you out when I get home.

Don't get so beat up about something not working perfect straight up... I can't even recall all of the problems and **** ups I've run into over the years.... Having to work for it just makes it more satisfying when you're done.

[Dyldo]

you're right dude, i think it was that time of the month for me. Or maybe just overly frustrated that things don't wok right first go (I'm used to it).

I'll keep playing around with her though, she's worth it. Fix track width F&R and then have a look at sways.

[Rybky]

What i did was remove the 5mm spacers on the fronts and fixed the clearance issue of the slight rubbing by removing the brake caliper retaining clip/spring. Research shows its not really that needed, and i experienced no adverse knocking or noise from break operation in forward or reverse. The rears need the spacers as un-spaced they do not clear the rear rotors.

What exactly were the symptoms you noticed with the retaining clip hitting the rim? I have a strange clunk on full left lock and a general kind of creaking sound from the front since I put my 17's on and my local mechanic cannot work out what it is! The clunk on full lock is followed by complete brake pressure loss for the first depression of the pedal so obviously it is brake related in some way. If this is my issue I will be happy!

Adam

[WABIT]

the floaty-ness and bad handling could also be because of your new tyres.... not being used to a new profile tyre can be a factor