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camber wear wen lowered

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  • #16
    By tracking I mean having the front wheels set parallel (or as per the book if you have that info).

    I have never come across a road car, run with enough negative camber to wear out the tyres. I may be wrong but haven't seen it in 15 years of owning GTIs. I had a couple of degrees -ve on my 2 litre MK2 and drove it for 4 years as my daily driver (20K miles a year) without having this happen.

    My Ibiza has just been done after I replaced some bushes. I knew it was out as the front right tyre was well gone on the inside. It was toeing in by a 1/4 inch on that side. Meaning that the fronts of the 2 wheels were 1/4 closer than the rears. This is loads and accounts for the tread wear.

    The wheels also had positive camber on both sides.

    All the above has been adjusted out and now I can drive round roundabouts without sounding like Starsky and Hutch!! ;0

    I would advise that you have a 4 wheel alignment carried out. This also checks that the rear wheels point the front too.
    optimumcode@gmail.com | https://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/for...i-;-79012.html | https://www.facebook.com/TTY-Euro-107982291992533

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    • #17
      Whiteline are no longer in Minto - they are now in the central coast.

      Camber pins are a good investment, I run four in my Nissan and it holds like a gun
      -DIDZ

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      • #18
        Originally posted by DIDZ View Post
        Whiteline are no longer in Minto - they are now in the central coast.

        Camber pins are a good investment, I run four in my Nissan and it holds like a gun
        Ah fair enough. It wasn't that long ago that Pedro gave them a visit.

        Anyhow, Autobarn stocks Whiteline stuff, just that it would be more expensive dealing with a middle man. There's no way around it though
        Past: Mk3 Golf 2L 8V, Audi 8L A3T.
        Present: Mk3 Golf variant.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by DIDZ View Post
          Camber pins are a good investment,
          Why?

          What's wrong with stock adjustments?

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          • #20
            This is a good article about camber bolt kits. They use kmac stuff which requires the bolt hole to be drilled out however their theory is that they use the same size thickness bolt as standard so str isnt compromised.

            Noltec + whiteline use a thinner eccentric bolt with a teardrop shaped middle that does the same job. I chose this since its easier

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            • #21
              man that doesnt look easy to install.

              i will get a 4 wheel allignment and hopefully it fixes it self. how would i tell if it fixed or not after allignment?
              Passat 1.8T K04 | Audi A3 1.8T | Bora 4Motion

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              • #22
                If camber cant be adjusted a wheel alignment wont do squat. I found that out having forked out the $50 when the guy told me and i had to fork out another alignment after installing the camber kit.

                Its relatively easier to install if u buy the noltec/whiteline one. All you do is pop front wheels off, remove the top strut bolt and insert the replacement one. Then get a wheel alignment and they will correct the camber.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by peedman View Post
                  If camber cant be adjusted a wheel alignment wont do squat. I found that out having forked out the $50 when the guy told me and i had to fork out another alignment after installing the camber kit.
                  .
                  If that was on a Golf 3 front you've been ripped off. The camber is adjustable by the lower bolts.

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                  • #24
                    How is it adjusted? Theyre just normal bolts

                    edit: ok i read theres some adjustment on the lower bolt lol, oh well mine does the job too
                    Last edited by peedman; 25-06-2007, 06:04 PM.

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                    • #25
                      This is why I hate most mechanics.

                      It's very hard to find someone to do a wheel alignment.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by h100vw View Post
                        By tracking I mean having the front wheels set parallel (or as per the book if you have that info).
                        The front wheels should always have a small amount of toe in, to make the system stable. Not sure what is the nominal for road vehicles, but it's a definite requirement. (Can explain the theory if you really want!)
                        Peugeot 306 XTDT 1.9 Turbo Intercooled Diesel

                        1976 LS parts vehicle

                        Used to have: Mk1 Swallowtail LS DIESEL!

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by smithy010 View Post
                          The front wheels should always have a small amount of toe in, to make the system stable. Not sure what is the nominal for road vehicles, but it's a definite requirement. (Can explain the theory if you really want!)

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                          Remember also that toe will change slightly from a static situation to a dynamic one. This is is most noticeable on a front-wheel-drive car or independently-suspended rear-drive car. When driving torque is applied to the wheels, they pull themselves forward and try to create toe-in. This is another reason why many front-drivers are set up with toe-out in the front. Likewise, when pushed down the road, a non-driven wheel will tend to toe itself out. This is most noticeable in rear-drive cars.


                          Gavin
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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by smithy010 View Post
                            The front wheels should always have a small amount of toe in, to make the system stable. Not sure what is the nominal for road vehicles, but it's a definite requirement. (Can explain the theory if you really want!)
                            Are you sure it's toe-in? I thought it was a slight toe-out for front-wheel drive vehicles as they tend to toe-in when under power (so that they'd be parallel when moving), and it's the opposite with rear-wheel drive vehicles as the front wheels are being pushed rather than driven. I don't know how that works but I just read somewhere.
                            Past: Mk3 Golf 2L 8V, Audi 8L A3T.
                            Present: Mk3 Golf variant.

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                            • #29
                              I'm not sure about that. For road vehicles, toe in is a general rule. The overall rule is that steering will not track correctly if parallel. It is better if the wheels are aiming at a common point off in the distance. Toe out works similarly, but i believe that it is used a lot in Track racing vehicles to effect a greater angle of attack in turns (in combination with positive ackermann).

                              Anyone who knows more about the differences in fron/rear wheel drive vehicles, i'd like to know.

                              Enough technical talk.

                              Smithy
                              Peugeot 306 XTDT 1.9 Turbo Intercooled Diesel

                              1976 LS parts vehicle

                              Used to have: Mk1 Swallowtail LS DIESEL!

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                              • #30
                                I'd like to know more about your ackermann.

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