Fitting new wheels myself.

[tcran]

Hey guys,

Just got some second hand 6-spoke TT wheels. I would like to fit them to the car myself and having done a bit of research, would like some opinions.

I drive a 2001 mk4 golf with PCD 5x100.

Should wheel bolts from the steelies work the same with the new TT alloys?

What would be the best way to find out torque specs for the wheel bolts?

Would I need to get an alignment after putting them on?

I was thinking of taking a wheel off and putting a bolt through it and comparing the protrusion and seat with the standard steelies, to see if safe. As as far as I know the ball seat is the same... As well as the centre bore. (57.1)

Thanks.

[gavs]

Mate, if they're off a Mk1 TT (not the current shape) then they will bolt straight on, no spacers or adapters needed. If you have ball seated wheel bolts, these should be fine too. Is easy to check this, have a look at the top of the thread where it meets the bolt head and it will either be conical in shape or a ball.

Wheel bolt torque is specified as 120Nm for a Golf.

Shouldn't need an alignment after removing wheels as you are not altering suspension geometry, just make sure the wheels are balanced....

[dylan8]

Nice wheel choice! are they original VW bolts your using? if so they should right.
Way to check would be putting the wheel on and putting a liquid of some kind on the end thread on the bolt, screw it up tight, then take out and should have about 12mm of thread covered in the liquid you originally just put on the first thread. As Gavs said they should be a direct fit, no spacers/adapters needed, tyres should also be the same size if it came with them (225/45/17)

EDIT: actually just put on of the bolts through your new wheel when its off the car, should have about 12-14mm sticking out the back. General engineering rule is you want the dia of the bolt (M14) in length in the bolt (or in our case, the hub)

[tcran]

thanks guys.

[McDub]

General engineering rule is you want the dia of the bolt (M14) in length in the bolt (or in our case, the hub)

yeah something like that, you need enough thread engagement so you'll never strip the thread when the bolt is over tensioned, rather the bolt itself should snap off like on the shank or wherever the thinest cross secion is with full load... i usually aim for min of 1.5 the diameter if i can get it, and a bit more if the bolt is going into something softer, like aluminium. rarely bother calculating anything!
i remember reading somewhere (or being told) how due to the deformation of a bolt as it is tightened, it is actually just first few threads that take most of the load, or at least a higher proportion of the load compared to the threads deeper in the nut/threaded hole... makes sense when you think about... ok what has this got to do with the topic, haha.