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Welcome to the new look VWWatercooled
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Things are mostly the same, but some things are a little different. We will be learning together, so please post questions (and answers if you've worked things out) in the help thread.

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The Mk 7 stereo upgrade thread
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Looking for:- RS4 B7 Avant.
Current:- Amarok V6 Sportline; Mazda CX-9 Azami AWD
Previous - Mk 6 R manual; Mk 7 R manual; Passat 130 TDi Wagon. Mk 7.5 Wolfsburg Wagon.
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Originally posted by Paul_R View PostWelcome to Oz VW7R.
I agree on the bright Dynaudio tweeters. I have the treble turned right down on the Mk 6. I think what you are suggesting might be the way to go. I'm going to see what Nick at Uberstealth comes up with in terms of a sub box that fits around the wheel a la the one I've got. Then as you say replace the front speakers and sort out an amp and DSP from some where.
Damned Dynaudio and VW for dragging their heals in making a sub for the 7R. But then if I was able to get the Dynaudio, I could not live with the chromium plated sound from the tweeters and would have to change them to silk domes.
I just don't wish to spend more than £700 max. ($1260). One way out is to get the VW Plug and Plug (£503=$905.4, fitted), dump their massive sub, and replace it with a custom one which sits inside the spare. Swapping the subs would just be an unplug/plug job.Last edited by VW7R; 24-07-2014, 05:03 AM.Present: Superman BMW F30 330d M Sport + Toys
Ordered: Red Tornado VW Golf Mk7 R 5 Door + DSG + Toys
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I have just had the Helix VW Plug & Play system installed in my MK7 Golf R by Euro Car Upgrades in Marochydore. It cost about $800 from Amazon UK (inc freight) and cost about $500 for the install, so about $1300 all up.
This is what you get:
Plug & Play sound system for the Polo5, Beetle, Jetta, Golf VI, Golf VII and the Scirocco
Power output, max. [W]: 300 sine
Power output, max. [W]: 480 music
Channels: 5 (four for existing speakers in vehicle, one for subwoofer) 55Wx4 (to factory speakers and 160Wx1 sub)
Package content: subwoofer with integrated DSP amplifier, wiring harness, assembly materials and assembly instructions
Note: the sub replaces your spare wheel. This is of no concern to me as it has been 10 years plus since my last flat tyre, and i can always get a mate to run me mine out to me if i get a flat.
There is two models that are very similar, the one i got was the 000051419 one which fits a range of VW vehicles and needs a dongle to be tuned for your model. What i SHOULD have got was the 5G0051419 which is already coded for the MK7 4 door.
I havent found a supplier for the dongle yet, so mine is still tuned for a polo..... no I'm not kidding.
But it still sounds very good. Impressive powerful sub base, and somewhat surprisingly a MUCH improved top end. The front speakers are given roughly double the power of the stock setup, and as they are relieved of the base duties by the sub, they sound MUCH better than stock, not just louder, but far better imaging focus and clarity.
The sub base is as powerful as any normal person would want it to be, but its never going to sound like a pair of twelves driven by 1000w mono blocks in a 3cu/ft sub box taking up the entire boot
I like my music loud, and while i can reach the subs limits, i cannot listen to it that loud for more than a few seconds at a time without my ears giving out. This may not be enough for you, but if it is, you should probably have yourself checked.
I cannot wait to get the tuning dongle, so the system is properly tuned for my car, i think that there is a "gap" in the frequency response where the front speakers are crossed over a bit too high. This means that there is a little bit of disconnect between the sub base and the front end. I am not sure if this "disconnect" is due to the frequency response, or just down to the timing of the DSP being out. Its not bad, but the goal of good car audio is to make it sound like all the sound is coming from the front end, and there are no subs elsewhere.
This upgrade is never going to sound as good as a full replacement of all the speakers, addition of amps and well designed subs, but i just did not want to butcher the car (and spend big $$$). This setup is completely invisible to anyone that doesnt lift the boot floor, and dosent require cutting or damaging the car in any way. It can be returned to stock in about 2 hours, and you can even buy a blanking plug for the wiring if you need to put the spare wheel back in, and the system reverts to stock sound.
I was going to do more, maybe order the Dynaudio front speakers and tweets and see if they made a difference, maybe install some Focals etc. But it is just so good as it is, i don't think i will do anything else (except tune it with the dongle).Last edited by dtpearson; 15-02-2015, 08:56 PM.
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I'm not sure about the mk7 but dynaudio typically never use metal dome tweeters. The dynaudio speakers in the mk6 R are silk dome as are their home hifi tweeters.
It was mentioned above that if you spent the money on a processor youd have to replace the tweeters too. The whole point of the processor is to EQ the sound flat. If a tweeter is bright or sibilant, it's usually either a terrible quality speaker or in the case of dynaudio, the eq of what you're driving them with.
The stock dynaudio amp is woeful however and the head units are OK but they have a mid scooped sound, but setting the HU to line out, driving a processor into a decent 5 channel amp for the doors and adding a small sub to allow the bass crossover point for the door mid bass drivers to be around 80hz would be the ideal setup for the least money.
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Hi,
I have been examining options to upgrade my MK7 GTI for about 4 months. There are only a few available options for a bolt on OEM finish.
First questions a person needs to ask are:
1. am I keeping the stock speakers?
2. Do I plan to retain the stock amplification?
For me the key missing component is bass. Sending full range to the stock speakers with the stock amp = poor headroom and poor dynamic range. Just not up to it.
One of the first steps I took was to remove the door cards and fit a bunch of dynamat on the door skin, speaker mounts and card. Overall road noise is reduced and there is much less resonance in the door. A qualitative improvement I think.
Adding a sub will help a LOT according to the feedback from those who have done so. Unfortunately the off the shelf options are not awesome (that VW unit looks like garbage).
Some sub options:
1. Nik Brewer (uberstealth Audio) now has an in spare option for the mk 7. Not sure of cost to ship here as he hasn't replied to me yet.
2. Pioneer TS-WX710A. At 90mm height this unit should fit under the rear floor if you leave it in the 'upper' positon.
3. Helix (as indicated it loses your spare tyre though).
4. Custom box - with 90mm height under the rear floor and the inner area of the spare wheel I think a 10" or 2x8" is quite doable for a sealed sub and some space for your amp.
5. A side mount sub could work in the hatch area but it may not be large enough in volume to work well.
6. a few under seat options that will take up a small amount of rear foot space.
Both JL Audio and Pioneer offer some good low profile subs that would be great in a custom box.
Speaker replacement:
1. Focal OEM Kit. THis requires some modification and gluing of the tweeters in the front I believe.
I have not been able to confirm yet if their is a bass roll off / curve built into the head unit tuning (will likely do testing with some low and mid tones to check). If there is then something like the Audiocontrol L2Ci would be needed for a sub install or if you are going for a full amp upgrade I'd consider the Bit-10 or Audiocontrol L6Ci.
Currently I am considering the simplest upgrade of the pioneer WX710A +/- L2Ci feeding off the speaker level outputs (either from the rear doors or at the Hu dongle I guess). Knock the bass settings down on the HU and set the sub amp gain to compensate and I would expect to see decent improvement in the stock speaker/amp performance along with the bottom range.
Aust price is about $440 for the sub. Add in cable, fuse and bits not included and it seems fairly ost effective (especially if I don't pay $150/hr labour and DIY).
FOr fun, I'm looking at doing a custom MDF and fiberglass box that will sit in the spare wheel and use some of the space above that - either to hold a 10" or perhaps 2 8" drivers and amp. Starts getting more expensive though and could quickly over capitalise vs the performance of the rest of the system. I'll only go this way if I envisage replacing the stock speakers and re-amping the whole lot.Last edited by mgrobins; 05-03-2015, 11:10 AM.
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I have one of these and they are well worth it the sound is impressive for the size of it.... I also have Upgraded speakers in the front ..... Focal splits..... how BammBamm you cans say is junk bewilders me when you have not heard it. I certainly would not do without it now very happy with it. Produces a lot of bass... more than I can bear... I do like my hearing.
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The stock Mk7R system is poor, so I'll have to book in to get this done soon. I miss my bass.
I'm thinking instead of putting the amp with the 12"sub and box in the back, I'll grab one of the small footprint 4-ch amps (e.g., focal350, soundstream picasso nano, etc) and get it mounted under driver side dash (someone else has already had this done).
I gather it wouldn't be hard to amp the stock fronts from there too?
Regards, FixxxerLapiz Blue DSG Golf 7R
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Originally posted by peekay34 View PostI have the Helix unit great sound.... happy with it.Originally posted by peekay34 View PostI have one of these and they are well worth it the sound is impressive for the size of it.... I also have Upgraded speakers in the front ..... Focal splits..... how BammBamm you cans say is junk bewilders me when you have not heard it. I certainly would not do without it now very happy with it. Produces a lot of bass... more than I can bear... I do like my hearing.
The filtering off of the bass from the door drivers will make them sound much better though so the overall system output should be considerably greater than stock. And they may have eq curves that tune the treble and midrange for the stock drivers better for the MkVII cabin than the stock head unit's output.
But I have to agree with BammBammLast edited by kaanage; 09-03-2015, 10:19 PM.Resident grumpy old fart
VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS
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Whilst that may be the case the one that goes for it no modification of existing wiring looms that may void warranty it comes with the factory warranty and so on.... I would rather stick with it. If I had another choice I would have ..but the performance is more than adequate... the reality it will still make you deaf...
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I've been in touch with the manufacturer of the Match Audio amplifiers that can be used for a pnp fitout (I believe they are used in the helix systems).
All seemed great until I started looking into the options for a custom sub. The amp has an 8-pin output (Molex) to the sub.
I wrote to Audiotec-Fischer to ask for the pinout.
The amplifier uses 4 separate channels to power their sub designs - and NO, it cannot be bridged.
What this means is that if you use single voice coil subs they can only run at 1 CH worth of power.
The match subs use dual or quad voice-coils and each sub amp cha is used to run a coil. Hence the quad coil single woofer or 2x dual coil woofer sub enclosures they sell.
To me this is a pita as it limits my choices for a sub driver and the available low profile drivers are single coil.
I'm looking at wether the line output on the Match amp can be configured as a sub output (LPF and still run through the DSP) with the other vehicle specific tuning still loaded.
The question I want to answer is: can the Match series provide a plug-in solution for those who want a stealth sub enclosure (and to keep their spare tyre).
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Ok, I ordered a package with the following and will be doing an install myself so I'll attempt to put a video together or at least photos of the important parts for disassembly and cable routing etc.
Match PP-52DSP
VW Mk7 specific loom/connector
UMC-2A bass control
PP7E sub (dual 6.5" woofers)
Now.... I still want a stealth sub install so I'll be using this to test and see if I'm satisfied and then I'll likely strip the parts from the sub to mount in a custom enclosure once it's done.
The manufacturer Audiotec-Fischer has kindly provided the enclosure specs I need for tuning to match the sub I bought which will make life a little simpler.
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Hi,
quick update on where I'm at with my system upgrade.
The Audiotech-Fischer Match system does not work on the Golf Mk7 AU model. We have a variety of manufacturers for the head unit and they seem to behave slightly differently with the DSP amplifier.
Additionally, the OEM cable connector/loom did not fit my Mk7 head unit.
I'll be returning all of the gear and seeking a different path. It's a shame as the Plug and Play idea with the match hardware is attractive.
It will cost more but I suspect my best option will be custom sub enclosure (DIY), Processor (eg Bit Ten), 5Ch amp and take the high level feeds from the speaker outputs on the media unit in the glove box.
I tested the volume response of the stock system with a 50Hz and 125Hz sinewave and they graph very closely in terms of roll off. I'd want to try a higher freq as well but my judgement so far is that this system does not require a LOC with processing to undo any fiddling with the bass.
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