Sound System + Warranty

[aDg3]

Hi guys,

Just wanted to know the opinion here before I get told by a VW sales/repair that it probably doesn't void warranty.

I want to get a SUBWOOFER and AMPLIFIER put into my GTI, does this void the warranty? It will be connected to the car battery...

If VW says it doesn't, has anyone had any problems that are directly related to having the sub+amp there? Or anything along those lines? If so please let me know. I don't want to get told no it doesn't void the warranty, but then if the car breaks down for something unrelated I don't want the VW guys to tell me it's because I got a sub+amp put in and it's done "something" to the battery.

Thanks

[h100vw]

You are always going to be open to 'it's done something' comments about failures.

If you are confident about your installer then it shouldn't be a problem. Just make sure the amp is fused as close as possible to the battery.

Or find somewhere inside the car to pick up the power, so there's nothing visible at the battery.

Gavin

[pinzvidz]

Your warranty will not be voided. However, if a failure occurs as a direct result of the sub and amp being fitted (say, an alternator failure for example), then the warranty claim will not be honoured for the replacement of the failed part(s) due to consequential damage.

[dangerous_daveo]

Also, don't whine about rattles

[aDg3]

Also, don't whine about rattles

Arrgh. Speaking from experience?

I've been put off by it now, probably won't do it anymore.
I spoke to VW, said generally it won't void your warranty, but as others said, if it somehow damages the electrical parts I'm screwed. Best not to take that risk now.

Has anyone had the sound system modified? Sub? Amp? Any experiences you'd like to share?

[DaveMack]

Arrgh. Speaking from experience?

I've been put off by it now, probably won't do it anymore.
I spoke to VW, said generally it won't void your warranty, but as others said, if it somehow damages the electrical parts I'm screwed. Best not to take that risk now.

Has anyone had the sound system modified? Sub? Amp? Any experiences you'd like to share?

"Search" is your friend.

Dave

[dangerous_daveo]

Yeah I went nuts with it. Seriously mate, take it to a good shop, that does work with new cars and you should be fine.

I've got a sub, and 3 way dyn audios in mine, and it doesnt rattle at all, even at volume.

[Greg Roles]

I figure your biggest problem will be a source signal, and one in the right frequency range. Few options, but nothing really straightforward to my limited stock headunit understanding.

So far I've a long throw 8" boston in the boot powered by a true USA amp, and it doesn't rattle at all. About to put some powered drivers in the front doors, so that'll be the final test for rattles. My system is stand alone, fused in a few places, and easily isolated in an emergency, overkill for sure.

I'm amazed, for I've done several systems now, and there's always a rattle somewhere....

To be fair the exterior door handles do buzz a bit at higher volume, but it's not noticable inside the car at all.

[HiTorque]

Arrgh. Speaking from experience?

I've been put off by it now, probably won't do it anymore.
I spoke to VW, said generally it won't void your warranty, but as others said, if it somehow damages the electrical parts I'm screwed. Best not to take that risk now.

Has anyone had the sound system modified? Sub? Amp? Any experiences you'd like to share?

Search VWortex back 2005/06: one guy ordered Bremen MP74 system to be installed by a dealer, around $2K, and perhaps it was the best sound option.
You will need to glue sound dumpers on all internal metal surfaces inside your door otherwise it will rattle everywhere. I won't modify it, though my warranty is over, I just don't want to loose steering wheel controls.

[aDg3]

Yer I may just leave it, I'm still in the process of using search and reading the forums, and will check out vwvortex also.

If done professionally it may be ok, but I might not risk it...but the sound is lacking a sub

[blue_reality]

I've gotta say that I'm pretty impressed with the sound in these from the factory. We've got a MK4 GTI, a MK5 GTI and a 2008 S3 and they all sound amazing.

[Greg Roles]

Search VWortex back 2005/06: one guy ordered Bremen MP74 system to be installed by a dealer, around $2K, and perhaps it was the best sound option.
You will need to glue sound dumpers on all internal metal surfaces inside your door otherwise it will rattle everywhere. I won't modify it, though my warranty is over, I just don't want to loose steering wheel controls.

My Alpine works just fine with the buttons, although you can only have either radio, or display functions per button, so you are limited to four functions. Dead easy conversion.

http://www.pac-audio.com/products/productsCatagory.asp?mmSearch=Steering%20Wheel%20Interface

[brentondm]

ok, I still have not finished my amp install, so here is some pics to show the progress and what to do where, at least the most important bits.

PS. Admin, the 97.7 KB file size is a bit silly for attachments, resized to 800x600 I still have some 125 KB images.

The AMP+SUB pair is JLAudio kit, all up the amp (G2250) and SUB (12W1v2 in a JLAudio tuned + ported box) with a Sony 4 gauge amp wiring kit came in at $680 from JB.

to source the amp feed lines i used one of these . It is a Line out converter to draw some RCA outputs from the speaker outputs on the back of the head unit.

when fitting one of these units, make sure you are confident with electrical wiring, I can give some advice, but practice makes perfect and I'd hate to see someone ruin their install from not having enough experience.

I tap soldered my RCA converter into the wires, it was tough, but it was done cleanly by slicing the insulation along the speaker wire in the dash about 1", doing a complete cut around the wire to allow me to peel back the 1" segment, so I could tap solder my RCA adaptor into it and then allow me to replace the wire insulation over the solder and finally tape it up with some good quality electrical tape.

A SPLICING HOW TO: http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm

unfortunately I didn't take pics during the install as it was a 30C day and I was pretty ropeable from working the midday sun without any shade.

so here is the JLAudio SUB in the boot of the Golf, it takes up a little bit of room but I hardly ever use the boot:


The JL SUB weighs in about 21 KG, so its strapped in nice and tight, I don't want it going into orbit in a car accident, it might not look it, but the back of it is on an angle and butted nice and tight into the rear of the boot moulding.



Shown below is the 80AMP fuse about 6 inches from the battery + terminal, YOU MUST USE A FUSE.

REMEMBER KIDS: petrol + sparks are not friendly, the last thing you want to have on your conscience is you being at fault for your friends burning to death because you didn't use a fuse.


when running the AMP +12V constant, remove the black plastic tray, remove the loom with the foam insulator on it and unwrap the foam, run your high current lead next to this and re-wrap with the foam, this allows you to utilise the hole that's already there and allows a near invisible uninstall if ever needed.


remove the bung that plugs the hole in the firewall (where my cable goes into the firewall), this is the perfect spot to run this lead as it ends up in the passenger footwell behind the plastic trim.

TIP: don't throw out the bung, you need it to run your 12v constant through.

so cut a hole in the end of the bung, and feed the wire through it, and replace it into the hole near the end of the job.

the problem with this design is that VW decided to fit a rain tray to stop rain from getting into the air intake for the fan (good design) they also decided to design it so that that tray dripped right on top of that bung (bad design)

so, you have to silicon it all up to stop water creeping into your car and getting in under the carpet and insulation, you don't want your car smelling like rotting wet carpet.


that's pretty much all there is to it, there are some other tips I could give regarding 12v switched hookups and where to run your 12v ground in the boot, but I'll talk about that later when I finish wiring mine.

[qsilverza]

Another thing, running 4ga is a lot easier than running 0 ga !!!