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I have done a 2E swap under the head of a Kjet DX motor. So I can't see why yours would be any different.
Just be prepared that the engine wouldn't rev as well as a 2 litre. The 1800 was much nicer to drive TBH.
Fuelling was a problem with the 2E, to get enough fuel at the top end to make decent power, you had to have it well rich everywhere else. This made it great to thrash at WOT but not very economical the rest of the time.
Kjet isn't that flexible when it comes to upping fuelling, you can raise system pressure but the shape of the cone in the metering head dictates the mixture really.
It would be really torquey though, especially if you had a mild cam in it and were willing to sacrifice top end for reasonable economy in the midrange.
I forgot to mention, you need to consider the dissy too. Either(preferable) swap the cog off the 2 litre dissy onto the mk1 dissy and then have a spacer made to fill in the gap or (less desirable) go electronic ign using the 2 litre dissy.
I did have a drawing for the spacer once upon a time. But you'll see when you compare the 2 together what I mean.
Yeah the head will fit Pete. If your head is good and you can get more fuel in there, do it.
I`d use the 2E metal gasket and new 1.8 headbolts.
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Dizzy spacer will be required. I think I'll make one out of the 2E distributor. I don't need - it'll be useless without it's gear anyway.
Looks like I also need a block off plate for the breather box. Shouldn't be too hard to fab one up, this also mounts up the WUR.
The timing belt has me a little thrown at the moment. The 2.0 one is a couple of teeth longer than the 1.8. So if I put the 1.8 head on which belt will suit? Some people mention using the 1.8 crank pulley?
I'd like to try and get a serpentine belt setup working on this motor, think I've got that all figured out, except for what length belt it finally going to take.
2E motors seem cheap and bountiful, I'm only considering this as a stop gap until next year when I'd like to scratch build something.
I have a $50 Japanese 2E sitting here so I figure I'll I'll strip it to the short block, replace all the gaskets and bolt it up under the 1.8 GX K-Jet head for now. couldn't possibly be any worse than the GX is now!
go for it Pete and i look forward to seeing how it all goes should be an interesting build!
VW: it aint just a car, its a way of life There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
My Blog: tinkererstales.blogspot.com.au
Dizzy spacer will be required. I think I'll make one out of the 2E distributor. I don't need - it'll be useless without it's gear anyway.
Looks like I also need a block off plate for the breather box. Shouldn't be too hard to fab one up, this also mounts up the WUR.
The timing belt has me a little thrown at the moment. The 2.0 one is a couple of teeth longer than the 1.8. So if I put the 1.8 head on which belt will suit? Some people mention using the 1.8 crank pulley?
I'd like to try and get a serpentine belt setup working on this motor, think I've got that all figured out, except for what length belt it finally going to take.
2E motors seem cheap and bountiful, I'm only considering this as a stop gap until next year when I'd like to scratch build something.
I have a $50 Japanese 2E sitting here so I figure I'll I'll strip it to the short block, replace all the gaskets and bolt it up under the 1.8 GX K-Jet head for now. couldn't possibly be any worse than the GX is now!
I'm going to place a GAP order soon for the bits and pieces, I'll add a 2.0 timing belt to the shopping list. I'll also grab a spare 1.8 for the other car, so I'll be covered either way.
go for it Pete and i look forward to seeing how it all goes should be an interesting build!
Yeah, - Interesting.
This should address the immediate shortcomings of the GX without having to figure out a replacement induction system for the moment.
Still very tempted to bring an ABA crossflow head back from the US when I visit there next year. I'd want to build up a motor from scratch for that though.
I'm still researching - haven't quite figured out the approach yet.
Still very tempted to bring an ABA crossflow head back from the US when I visit there next year.
ohh dont forget to bring me back one aswell!!!
while the heads off again give the ports a bit of love
VW: it aint just a car, its a way of life There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
My Blog: tinkererstales.blogspot.com.au
while the heads off again give the ports a bit of love
Trouble with the ABA conversion is the lack of info out there. I can't find much information because the US market got the ABA motors and the UK market got the 2E motors. There doesn't seem to be too many places where the 2 items are common enough for someone to have written this up. (But I'm still looking)
What I'd like to be sure of is that a 2E block is the same as an ABA block.
I'm certainly not going to ship in an entire motor! I'd sooner go 16v.
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